Mitsubishi Endeavor This mid-sized sport utility vehicle offers a sporty look and excellent power, as well as a comfortable interior.

Endeavor Water problem

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  #11  
Old 08-03-2006, 07:22 AM
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Default RE: Endeavor Water problem

with my endeavor i had the same problem i took it to the dealer for a free fix
 
  #12  
Old 07-11-2007, 10:43 PM
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2
Default RE: Endeavor Water problem

I have a '04 Endeavor and same problem. You need to take the blower motor off, along with the shroud. I took my air compressor and attached some 1/4" capillary tubing to the air hose and blew behind the condesor. In seconds, at least a gallon of water came pooring out of the bottom and released all water. Hope this helps.
 
  #13  
Old 07-06-2010, 10:24 AM
oscarpup's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3
Default 07 endeaver ac blower replacement

I had the same issue with water geting plugged up. However after much looking I was able to find the drain hole from my driveway and what a great sound of the water spewing all over the the place-outside the vehicle.

Now my blower motor seems to be going (as others in this forum said it would.) The part isn't too expensive so I'd like to fix myself. Any help appreciated-thanks!
 
  #14  
Old 07-07-2010, 12:24 AM
jgbrules's Avatar
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Location: houma, louisianna
Posts: 346
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regardless of what some people say, the drain IS ACCESSIBLE from the outside. not easily though. right behind the rear motor mount there is a hole in the bulkhead. the drain for the hvac unit is slightly to the left(drivers side) of the hole. with a blower put in at an angle towards the drivers side you can unclog the unit. the real fix for this problem is to remove the hvac unit and dissassemble. then trim back the foam insulation that is too close to the drain opening. then of course put it all back together and install a cabin air filter. MUCH harder than it sounds. the other big complaint with endeavor is water getting into the drivers floorboard when the a/c is on. this happens due to the foam grommet/seal between the hvac unit and the fire wall deteriorates over time and lets the water comming out of the drain come into the cabin area. there has been many a discussion about this condition here, but as a certified mitsubishi technition with 22 years mitsubishi expierience i will tell you that there are 2 ways to fix this condition. you can remove the hvac unit, and replace the 1.50 grommet/seal that fails, or you can do some modifications and install a drain hose on the end of the hvac drain. the modification goes like this, the hole that was mentioned above where you CAN access the drain at an angle will have to be enlarged. you do this by removing the mentioned above motor mount so you have clear access to the hole. using an angle drill with a 1 inch hole saw. measure exactly 1 1/2 inches to the left(drivers side) of the hole. make a mark and center your hole saw EXACTLY in the middle. then drill slowly untill you go through the sheet metal. dont use alot of force because you will damage the drain your seeking to fix. then install a hose with a 90 degree bend on it to take the water away from the fire wall. we use the factory drain hose for an evolution. dont have the part number handy but it works perfectly. thats it. lately i do this repair at least once a day. i have had 100% success with this repair.me and another guy in our shop came up with this repair. removing the hvac unit and fixing it that way runs the customer around 900.00 installing the hose will run around 300.00 huge savings for the customer. most of the endeavors suffering from this condition are out of warranty. mitsubishi is well aware of this fix, i have participated in several phone interviews with mitsubishi product support fully explaining the fix. sent in pictures with the explanation of what we are doing. they now give there blessing on it, but still recommend replacing the grommet if under warranty. mitsubishi product support called several of our customers that we have performed this repair on, and got 100% satisfation repair evaluations on us for that repair. so there it is people. pick your poison. this is a proven repair, if done correctly WILL WORK. good luck!!!
 
  #15  
Old 07-07-2010, 07:49 AM
oscarpup's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3
Default Thank You for your help! What about blower Motor on Endeavor?

I've fixed the drain leak now I need to replace the blower motor-that part isn't too expensive. Is the repair doable without ripping apart the whole dashboard?

Thanks in advance
Mike
 
  #16  
Old 07-08-2010, 11:34 PM
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Location: houma, louisianna
Posts: 346
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blower motor is under the glove box. easily accessable. three 10 mm bolts and its on the floorboard. good luck
 
  #17  
Old 07-11-2010, 06:58 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 1
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jgb....can you post the pics of the drain hose fix that you have come up with?
 
  #18  
Old 08-18-2010, 09:21 PM
lehinostroza's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 4
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Originally Posted by jgbrules
regardless of what some people say, the drain IS ACCESSIBLE from the outside. not easily though. right behind the rear motor mount there is a hole in the bulkhead. the drain for the hvac unit is slightly to the left(drivers side) of the hole. with a blower put in at an angle towards the drivers side you can unclog the unit. the real fix for this problem is to remove the hvac unit and dissassemble. then trim back the foam insulation that is too close to the drain opening. then of course put it all back together and install a cabin air filter. MUCH harder than it sounds. the other big complaint with endeavor is water getting into the drivers floorboard when the a/c is on. this happens due to the foam grommet/seal between the hvac unit and the fire wall deteriorates over time and lets the water comming out of the drain come into the cabin area. there has been many a discussion about this condition here, but as a certified mitsubishi technition with 22 years mitsubishi expierience i will tell you that there are 2 ways to fix this condition. you can remove the hvac unit, and replace the 1.50 grommet/seal that fails, or you can do some modifications and install a drain hose on the end of the hvac drain. the modification goes like this, the hole that was mentioned above where you CAN access the drain at an angle will have to be enlarged. you do this by removing the mentioned above motor mount so you have clear access to the hole. using an angle drill with a 1 inch hole saw. measure exactly 1 1/2 inches to the left(drivers side) of the hole. make a mark and center your hole saw EXACTLY in the middle. then drill slowly untill you go through the sheet metal. dont use alot of force because you will damage the drain your seeking to fix. then install a hose with a 90 degree bend on it to take the water away from the fire wall. we use the factory drain hose for an evolution. dont have the part number handy but it works perfectly. thats it. lately i do this repair at least once a day. i have had 100% success with this repair.me and another guy in our shop came up with this repair. removing the hvac unit and fixing it that way runs the customer around 900.00 installing the hose will run around 300.00 huge savings for the customer. most of the endeavors suffering from this condition are out of warranty. mitsubishi is well aware of this fix, i have participated in several phone interviews with mitsubishi product support fully explaining the fix. sent in pictures with the explanation of what we are doing. they now give there blessing on it, but still recommend replacing the grommet if under warranty. mitsubishi product support called several of our customers that we have performed this repair on, and got 100% satisfation repair evaluations on us for that repair. so there it is people. pick your poison. this is a proven repair, if done correctly WILL WORK. good luck!!!
I have to do this from underneath the car, right? and when you said to the left (driver side) you mean: if I under the car -facing up- to my right? And when you said "install the 90 degree hose" where exactly needs to be install? Can you give me more details? I already try blowing with a compressor in the hole and it worked for 10 minutes but it clogged back again. If you have some pictures of your job it would help a lot. Thanks in advance.
 

Last edited by lehinostroza; 08-18-2010 at 09:48 PM.
  #19  
Old 08-31-2010, 12:25 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Is the actual hole recessed back from the hole in the firewall?
 
  #20  
Old 08-31-2010, 02:40 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Mobile, Alabama
Posts: 17
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jobrules I am 69 years old. I've been learning to be a mechanic since old enough to hand my father tools. In those days cars used "generators" and their "hoods" opened from the sides. I am going to address the A/C water leak on the drivers side of my 2004 Mitsubichi Endeavor using your excellently developed method. Would you please send your basic pictures to me. (johnpaulinspect@hotmail.com). Your instructions are already very clear. Much Thanks J.P.
 


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