After replacing timing kit, which included water pump, tensioner, cam and crank sensors and seals, and timing pulleys, SUV ran fine slight moment. I also replaced replaced alternator and charged battery back up. I drove SUV around the corner and back. As pulling in driveway it stalled on me. From then on SUV will crank on run good for 5 seconds, stutter bit then stall out. It will do that bout 3 times then it wont crank on no more. It would just turn over until I let it sit for bit then it will do it all over again. When I give it some gas it stutters hard and backfires then still stall out. From there and after doing research, I've replace throttle body sensor, maf, IAC, and check cam and crank sensors to see if work properly. Sensor checked out good. I still have the same problem. Can someone tell me what should I do next. No engine light is on

 

With so many items changed, its difficult to narrow down what can be the cause. Even without CEL you might have a "pending" code. You may want to plug a code reader and see what might be stored there. If you have a life data feed, look at the fuel trims while engine is running. It is possible to have a bad "new" part. You can try to put old MAF back on to see if it make any difference.
Other than that, check the following:
Engine grounds;
All sensors plugged in correctly?
Spark plug wires going to the right cylinders? Check once again - too easy to miss that one.
Spark plugs properly torqued and wires fully seated on them?
Intake manifold fully seated, no gaps, no cracks.
Re-check timing on the belt (most time intensive).

 

Checked codes and nothing came up. Timing belt also seem like its lined up correctly. All sensor and spark plugs are properly connected. What could be probable cause? Where should I start?

 

Long shot, but... Did you install the metal gasket between throttle body and plenum in correct orientation? If it is not in the right position, some of the vacuum passages might be plugged and at least contribute to the bad idle. Another item to check - fuel pump relay and fuse.

 

Another long shot.....you said you had to charge the battery back up after doing all that work. Is it possible that the battery has a bad cell, and not putting out enough amps to properly run the engine and computer systems?

Let us know what the answer turned out to be.....pretty puzzling.