I am trying to take the crankshaft off so i can get the timing belt off to check it to see if it hopped or if there is damage to the gear.

I don't have the tool to put on there to remove it any suggestions about the removal tool??

But i looked into removing it and learned there is a oil gasket behind it.
If that was to break or loosen would that cause no compression, and if that's the case would that damage the engine?

thanks

 

I hope you are referring to removing a crankshaft pulley. If that is what you are working on, you need to remove the big nut holding it on the crankshaft. I don't remember the size - (could be 21mm or larger). It is on there very tight. One way to remove it, is to use a LARGE breaker bar (1/2" size) with the right size socket on it. Rotate the crank shaft to a position, where the handle of the breaker bar will be resting (firmly) on the side of the engine compartment and crank the engine with the starter for just a half a second (one or two short pulses). The rotation of the crank shaft along with nut being immobile will loosen it and after that you can remove the nut by hand or with a ratchet. The pulley is then can be wiggled off the crankshaft end.

The oil seal on the crankshaft has nothing to do with compression. It is there to keep the oil from leaking out from the bottom of engine case.

 

Yes i meant the pulley :P im tired its been a long night.

i tried the breaker bar, but had no luck. I will try it the way you described when i work on it next.

Crap was hoping it was just something easy like the oil seal. LOL guess i can wish eh.
Will post some pics of the belt, and gears to see what you guys think.

Thanks for the direction on the procedure i was worried i was going to have to buy a tool for it.

The manual said "requires Mitsubishi specific tool". LOL i guess you can consider the crank shaft pulley Mitsubishi specific thanks HunterD.

 

No worries. The reason the manual calls for the special tool is to immobilize the crankshaft when you are removing/installing the pulley. This is pretty important when you are installing it - you need to torque it pretty high and without the stopper the crankshaft just turns. In your case, without any compression, situation is even worse when trying do disassemble it. Check out YouTube to see how to remove the crankshaft nut by "bumping" it with the starter. It will give you a little more understanding and confidence.
Most important - make sure the handle of the breaker bar is resting on the driver side of the engine bay. This way it has nowhere to go. If you place it on the opposite site (passenger=wrong) - it will fling around in an arch and can cause lots of damage.

 

Ok so i finally completed the testing processes. I found it to be bent valves.

I am going to check into machine shops tomorrow but hope it wont cost me a million dollars to have machined.

If that is the case then i may end up buying a used engine from a wrecking yard somewhere because i really like this montero.

Also upon testing i found there is mold in the rear of the vehicle from the passengers side back. I wiped down all the seals and cleaned the rain gutters of the doors. So i am hoping that fixes that, but am feeling very discouraged about finding more and more things wrong .

JP

 

Bent valves indicate a slipped timing belt by several teeth. This should be obvious when crank and cams are aligned at TDC. Believe you had checked this previously?

Jim

 

The crank pulley bolt is 22 mm. I used an impact wrench to remove mine.

 

I did not fully remove the belt and check the crank.
I figured it was OK by spinning the crank and seeing no belt damage/crank damage. However I am now almost certain it jumped so i am going to fully remove it today and see. New timing belt is not an issue. But if it was the crank will that have to be machined or can it just be swapped with new parts?

thanks

 

so a local shop will do the valve job etc for 442 if they remove cams or 357 if i remove cams.

does that sound about right? and if it is the valves will this fix it?
If it was the belt/gears that hopped will i need to replace them, and if so are they expensive???

thanks guys

JP

 

Belt isn't expensive but you will need idler and tensioner bearing at very least. Shop around for parts. Make sure you get head rebuilt with new valves, guides and possibly lifters. A good shop will know what to do. Don't forget the head gasket and possibly head bolts if required.

Jim