Awesome job JP. It is funny, but i can tell that you are feeling better about how the rebuild is going (your posts seem calmer now).
As far as the "D" in the user name - that is just a first letter from a nickname my friends use. Long story. Will tell you if we'll go wheeling some day

 

I used fel pro gaskets, and dayco timing belt,water pump,pulleys, and fel pro head bolts.

Yeah I feel a bit better about how its going. I just hope its going as good as i am feeling about it.

The stupid water cooling pipes are way badly corroded am am wondering if they have been linked to the over heating issues i was having when i was first driving it. there was a bunch of yellow gunk on the head when i removed them the first time and was wondering if it wasn't coming from the pipe.

The mid pipe(small one) that goes in between the engine heads has rusted and fallen off while i was putting the heads back on. I am trying to figure out what i can do to get it back on there and fix it or where i can get a replacement no auto parts stores have them and i have to go through a dealership it seems (or take a gamble and pull one from a wrecking yard).

I am getting close and closer to being done with this rebuild and am excited to have it done i just hope all went well and i can have my Montero back.

 

Jp - The water pipe between the heads is puzzling to me as well. There is a joint in mine that is loose and I do not know how to disconnect it for a new gasket or whatever is in it.

Where did you get your Felpro gaskets & head bolts?

 

The felpro gaskets were from Autozone and Advanced auto parts(fourmly known as car quest).
The pipe and the o ring on the end of it looks like it may be an issue :/ but I haven't had a whole lot of time to dig into that as I am still putting the rest of it back together.

 

Have you tried MitsubishiParts.com? They usually have OEM parts I need and at very good discount compared to the dealership.
The crossover pipe is under Engine/Cooling/Cooling System portion. Its a little confusing, but you should be able to find it there. If the pipe is as bad as you described - replace it. There is no reason to have to have gone through rebuild and have the pipe blow out when you get back on the road.

 

Hey JP keep in mind that just because your timing belt is intact does not by default mean there's no damage done to your valves or pistons. Your timing belt is held tight by a hydraulic belt tensioner and if that, or the idler pulley is broken or worn past whatever they're spec is, then your timing belt can can easily come loose and skip a tooth on the cam pulley or crank pulley and if that happens then damage to your engine is not only possible, but more than likely to have happened.
if you're doing all this work yourself and it's your first time getting into a motor this in depth, i would strongly advise you find manuals or some other media with which to familiarize yourself with the complexities of the timing belt and it's proper installation. Its an extremely in depth procedure on that year and model and everything must be done to spec in regards to the tensioner and the idler pulley and the torgue settings, getting both cams and crank to true TDC and knowing how to rotate the motor and how far you're able to turn it and then rotating it a couple times both before starting and then checking the belt tension and timing marks again after having run it for a few minutes. There's many steps that if not done properly, can leave you doing all this work only to get finished and actually do MORE damage to your motor when you start it. That's not how to fix your vehicle so be smart and be patient and make sure you got the tools and knowledge to complete this job correctly. Or, you'll be selling it to the wrecking yard in short order. Good luck to you...