Well I think I found out why I got my 03ls for so cheap. There are a lot of issues its having. I love the truck and will be fixing it up as I don't want to get rid of it. I like everything about it and always wanted one before getting this.

So since getting it it has been slow to start, and the check engine light is on.

It turns over and doesn't make bad starter noises, but is acting almost like a low battery. I took my scan tool and tested the battery and it shows 12.6 so it's not the battery.

Well today I went out to work on it and it started I drove it a few miles to the store and back. When I got home I took groceries in and came back out and needed to use it again. This is when it wouldn't start.

I hooked it up to my pc and did a freeze frame check with 2 different programs and will post the results below.

I don't want to just fix things blindly and was hoping someone could help me with this issue.

I filled it with regular gas the other day but then found out it said it needed premium?? Is this true and could that be the issue?
I hope not as I cannot afford premium gas around here.

Thanks

Jp

 

Crank no starts are the most complicated to diagnose...
Matt on Youtube gives a great walkthrough of the FASTTEC method (Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing, Timing, Exhaust, Compression) which are the only reasons for a crank no start situation.

Randomly changing parts is a bad idea.

Here's a Link to his 2 part video series:
I'd quickly start with checking if the fuel pump is making a noise (like it's running) when you turn the key to the RUN position (not start) as that's extremely easy to check and takes no extra equipment.

Do you have the code from the CEL?

Also look on the fuel flap it should say something like fill only with premium or premium recommended or unleaded only... If it requires premium it's due to high compression in the engine and anything lower octane could cause knocking... If this was the case you would probably hear it making a lot of noise...

 

here are some of the FF data pics.
with OBD doctor.



With OBD Wiz.

 

When did this code get set? (How long before the no start condition)

I'd love to hear if the fuel pump is priming when you turn it to RUN.

Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on your take) you will likely need some specialized tools to properly diagnose the problem...

 

the code set shortly after buying it. from what i can tell it sounds like the fuel pump is running but i will get an oscilloscope(not sure of proper wording lol) and listen by the tank while someone turn the key on.

It started again a few minutes ago and i was able to drive it up onto ramps so i will be able to crawl under it easier and look around if need be.

Well my take on it is a little of both lol i don't like buying a car and having to put more $ into it when he lied about it running and driving fine.

however its good experience and practice and will help to get to know the car encase i ever need to do more repairs.

what do you guys think from the codes??
thanks

JP

 

Stethoscope is the word your looking for. An oscilloscope is for measuring electrical voltages over time. You'd need to try that test when it wasn't starting...

Was it running poorly when you got it started?

I'm actually watching a video about fuel trims right now and apparently a code on a single bank like that probably isn't a fuel delivery issue (thought that may or may not be related to the no-start)..

He said a high fuel trim could be caused by a vacuum leak might be the next thing to do a visual/audible inspection for anything obvious.

 

JP, it looks like your engine runs very very lean. I think Guyfromhe is onto something with possible fuel pump issues. If the fuel pump not putting out enough fuel - system will run lean (starved for fuel). That's what seems to be what is happening (it is calling for 29% more fuel than "normally" expected at these conditions). It is a little troubling that the data for both banks is somewhat different, but they are both on high + side. Unfortunately, without a scan tool, i can't rule out a massive vacuum leak, however if all other systems (fuel, ignition, etc.) were working, you would be able to start the engine with the vacuum leak. It would run crappy, but it would run. If you have a floor access panel over the fuel tank (under the passenger seat in the back) you are in luck. Open that up that panel and you will have access to the top of the fuel pump with all electrical connectors. You can test those to make sure you are getting 12 volt to the pump with engine cranking. If you get 12 volt but the pump does not run - you've found your problem. If on the other hand you DO NOT get 12 volt at the pump on cranking, you may have a bad crank position sensor.

A few words of wisdom:
1. You've said - you know why you got it so cheap All that means is the other person just gave up troubleshooting the truck and gave you have the honor of getting it nursed back to life. Don't get discouraged. Once you get it purring you will not be able to wipe the grin off your face every time you drive it. I know - I've got a car like that (not the Montero).
2. DO NOT BLINDLY THROW PARTS AT IT. Think, read, test, test, test... Make sure you need the part before you swap it. I can't stand replacing parts you do not need. On my '01 Montero all sensors are still original except the a MAP and a couple of O2s. Believe me - these trucks are not some crappy cheap POS's, they are made to last and so are the components with which they are made.
3. Don't worry about Premium fuel. I've been running regular 87 octane gas in mine for 100+k miles. Once truck runs you notice that you are getting knocking (premature detonation) then you may have to go to Premium. Other than that use Regular. The no-start issue is not related to it.

 

BTW, that video on FASTEC troubleshooting method is very good. Unfortunately Montero does not have a schaider valve on the fuel rail to test fuel pressure. You have to have a very special adapter to do that

 

Yay I'm on the right track again... It's almost like I've learned something about cars by watching random videos on the internet :P I'm always worried your going to show up and call me a dumbass ;P

It's possible there's more than one problem with said car.. Would be good if he could grab some graphs with his scan tool when it was running... I suppose if the fuel pump was cutting out it could store the FF data before the other bank drained?

If he can fix it himself and takes the time to diagnose it without throwing parts at it he will have ended up getting a good deal on it..

That sucks there is no valve.. One point to mention is that you may be able to rent that very special adapter rather than buying it if you need to go there...

 

Don't worry, I may still do that At the same time - I've been called that by other users. So I guess it is a sort of "welcome to the club" thing.

Nope. It is so very very special adapter that only extensive pro level fuel test kits would have it. I've found one some time ago and bough it directly from tool supplier for Mitsubishi. This is what you need: https://mitsubishi.service-solutions...E-ADAPTER?c=13