Hello,

This is my first post here, been reading this forum for a while and enjoy it very much. I've seen some people having similar problems, here's mine. I first got a Service Engine Soon and had that checked. Nothing came up, just a misfire so dealer reset the light. A few days later it came back again, I can't remember the code but it had to do with thermostat, temp sensor and some other sensor. The thermostat and the temp sensor were changed, light went out for one day then came back on. This time the temp gauge decided to go berserk, it goes up all the way, comes back down, goes up and does it until I shut off the engine. The SES light came on again. Dealer checked it, said it was not overheating but said that the gauge had failed due to electrical problem. They said it had to be recalibrated at a cost of $523.85. I had another mechanic check it and he said that is unlikely, that it is probably a faulty sensor. He did say there were 2 sensors, is this correct? Dealer replaced only one. It is not overheating, although on the code reader the temp says 214 degrees, but actual temp from the engine was 125-128 degrees. Should I have the 2 sensors replaced and will this fix the SES light? Or is there something else that could be at fault? Thanks in advance for any help. BTW, what is the cam o-ring, which the dealer said had to be replaced?

 

Any ideas? Is it also possible that a maintenance requirement, such as spark plugs or wires, can trigger a Service Engine Soon light?

 

This is my first post here, been reading this forum for a while and enjoy it very much. I've seen some people having similar problems, here's mine. I first got a Service Engine Soon and had that checked. Nothing came up, just a misfire so dealer reset the light. A few days later it came back again, I can't remember the code but it had to do with thermostat, temp sensor and some other sensor. The thermostat and the temp sensor were changed, light went out for one day then came back on. This time the temp gauge decided to go berserk, it goes up all the way, comes back down, goes up and does it until I shut off the engine. The SES light came on again. Dealer checked it, said it was not overheating but said that the gauge had failed due to electrical problem. They said it had to be recalibrated at a cost of $523.85. I had another mechanic check it and he said that is unlikely, that it is probably a faulty sensor. He did say there were 2 sensors, is this correct? Dealer replaced only one. It is not overheating, although on the code reader the temp says 214 degrees, but actual temp from the engine was 125-128 degrees. Should I have the 2 sensors replaced and will this fix the SES light? Or is there something else that could be at fault? Thanks in advance for any help. BTW, what is the cam o-ring, which the dealer said had to be replaced?[/QUOTE]

 

This seems to be a common problem. Also on Monteros out of USA (PAJEROS) they said it is on the gauge cluster itself has an error. You did all the right steps to narrow it down and to actually make sure its not mechanical and your engine is fine.

But yea I;ve heard it be pricey on the cost to fix.

 

Jramirez, it sounds like a problem with the printed circuit board that feeds the temp gauge, which, as red.........too long to reprint said, is a common problem with these beasts.

And, yes, I believe that there is more than one temp sensor on these, but only one feeds the dash unit; there's another for the AC. The lead going to the ECU sports a Yellow/Green wire; the dash meter is going to be Yellow/Blue.

Hey, I'm curious: What does "The gauge had to be re-calibrated?" even mean? What was the dealer going to do besides lighten your pocket to the tune of $523.85?


Sorry, SpyderMR, you kinda got lost in the shuffle. Thanks for posting. Your problem could be a faulty sensor or the dreaded bad unit in the dash syndrome. A new sending unit is pretty good news; the other option is lots worse. Maybe a replacement dash at a local wrecker or a CL ad can find you a reasonable alternative if that's what it turns out to be.

As far as the cam o-ring, is the dealer talking about a cam seal? There are oil seals at the back and front of the camshafts which through age often leak, especially the back ones. Are you losing oil from that location, drippign down between the engine and the transmission perhaps?

 

Thought I'd chime in even though it's been a while from the original post. Dealer said the gauge cluster would have to be replaced. The recommended installing a separate gauge which I did. Fits nicely lower left of the steering wheel in a recessed area that looks to be made for one. Not quick to glance at but it does the job.

 

I know this is a somewhat late post to this thread, but thought I'd add my two cents. I have an 02 LTD that is doing the same thing...erratic readings with zero indications of overheat (IR sensor, aftermarket gauge, cool radiator, etc....all normal). I began having this problem, but luckily didn't go through all the thrash so many folks seem to go through with this problem. I guess the first lesson is to make sure what the gauge is telling you is accurate before going and replacing, thermostats, temp sensors......and even water pumps as I've heard in some instances!! I troubleshot the problem by disconnecting the wiring harness from the temp sensor (the sensor with one wire BTW). Then I turned the key on and immediately saw some movement of the needle. I then started the car and drove it around a bit. All the while the needle was moving up and down even with it's sensor was disconnected. With it disconnected, the needle should be firmly burried on full cold. Its movement indicates a short to ground somewhere and the printed circuit board is the most logical location.

What actually needs to be replaced is the printed circuit on the back of the cluster. Unfortunately the same circuit also contains the memory for the odometer, so if you just replace the board, the odometer will be zeroed out. What they mean by "re-calibrating" is actually sending the old unit and replacement unit in to a company called "Specmo" to have the new odometer info imprinted in the new memory/circuit. I called Specmo today and the price is $102 and that includes overnight shipping back to you. If you google TSB-07-54-002, you'll see the mitt TSB for sending the units in. I'll let you all know how mine goes.

 

I have some similar and some different issues. My 2001 Montero Ltd. developed a check engine light . I had codes scanned and came up with coolant/sensor/thermostat and also misfire.

Before I could have corrected the vehicle experienced a battery drain over night. I replaced the battery twice to no avail.

I tested all fuses and found fluctuating voltage in the fuse for the hazards; while the vehicle was turned off. I removed the fuse and the vehicle continued to maintain a charge every night. I purchased and installed a new hazard switch; replaced the fuse and the battery drain began again. I also replaced the thermostat and coolant sensor and bled the system. The check engine light still comes on and the coolant code is still present. I performed a tuneup. At least the code for the misfire went away.

But now my check engine light is on my hazard and turn signals don't work because I can't leave the fuse in for fear I won't be able to start the vehicle.

It appears the hazards, turn signals, etc., are wired in series with the instrument cluster. Though I'm not 100% certain.

I NEED HELP ASAP...................PLEASE!

 

I need help asap...........please