I am still having the problem. Here is what I have done. Please give me any thing that you can.
New
Idle air control
fuel pump relay
Ignition control
cleaned throttle body
The Montero still runs fine until it gets to normal temp and it just shuts down.
I tested both IAC valves and they are in the range of 28 to 32 ohms.
Thanks for your help.

 

From the Australian Pajero Forum, possible causes for engine stalling:

Engine stalls

1. Fuel Filter Clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system
2. Emissions system components faulty
3. Vacuum Leak in the inlet manifold system.
4. valve clearances are incorrect
5. air in the fuel system, defective diesel pump or timing

Possible Fixes (ignore the diesel ones):

• Replace the Air Filter and fuel filter (cheaper to get the set off ebay, $68.. maybe pm cullen & son )
• Ensure the EGR is blocked, and if not, block the egr and clean the intake manifold.
• run two cans of molleys liquid diesel purge thru her.
• Check that there are no air leaks on the turbo system (inlet/outlet intercooler and inlet manifold/egr
• Check the fuel tank for vapor lock.. (does it make a sucking noise after driving and you open the fuel cap? it should not do this at all)
• Check the earth connections and clean them.. making sure the battery terminals are nice and tight.
• air in the fuel system, not good.. again check all fuel hoses and all connections. ensure that there are no leaks.. also inspect the pickup in the tank.
• you could also use a diesel additive to kill any bacteria/growths in the fuel tank/system

Here is the thread link:
3.2 Di-D increased fuel, stalling, difficult start - Pajero 4WD Club of Victoria Public Forum

 

Stop just swapping parts out. It is obviously not solving the problem you are having. Try to trouble shoot the issue first. Figure out what is going on. The issue occurs when engine warms up to operating temp. Start there. Warm up your engine and see if your spark disappears or does your fuel flow stops at this point? This can be a wiring issue. Check wiring harnesses. Unplug and re-plug all connectors - something can be loose or loosening up when engine warms up. It hurts to think how many parts you swapped without any success. Don't shoot blind in the dark.

 

Thank you for your response.
I have checked all the plugs and everything seems fine. I talked to a mechanic and he thinks it is the crank shaft sensor. I thought that when they went bad the car would not start at all. what do you think?

 

It is of course possible. But test it first to make sure that it does or does not work before replacing it. Look in the "Why don't you have a manual" portion of the forum for links to the diagnosis pages. Look them over and test your sensor. It will also help if you test it after or at the point of when the engine stops (when warm). This sensor will get hot when the engine is warm and it may function differently vs. when it cold.

 

I just realized something - since your problem only occurs when the engine is warmed up, it means the engine is in what is called "Closed Loop". This is the engine operating mode where it uses sensor data for adjusting air/fuel ratio. When engine is cold, some of the sensors are not used and engine is running on a programmed "generic" baseline. That is called "Open Loop". The switch occurs when coolant reaches certain temperature. The fact that the engine cuts off when it goes into closed loop, means that one or more of the sensors used for Closed Loop is not working properly or sending misleading signals to the PCM. This makes me doubt that it is related to cam position sensor, since that one is used all the time. It has to be something else. I do not have an answer for you as to what it is, but i hope that this info may help your mechanic to zero down on the issue. Good luck.

 

Ok, I got a code p0335 crankshaft position sensor. Do you have to take the crankshaft pulley off to replace it? Will I need a puller? Does the 3.5l have a camshaft sensor? I have read a lot of post on this. Some say yes and some say no.

 

To remove the crankshaft position sensor you need to get all the way behind the timing belt. For that you need to remove the main crankshaft pulley. I don't think you need to remove the timing belt, but to get to the spot where the sensor is bolted to you have to go through all the prep procedures for timing belt. As long as you can remove the crank shaft bolt, the pulley should come out without any pullers (unless it is rusted on). On a 3.5 V6, the camshaft position sensor is on the back of the driver side (bank 2) cylinder head right in front of the fire wall. It is a tight spot, but a fairly easy replacement if you have to.

 

Thank you Hunter. I will do it today!

 

May be a block in one of the Catalectic Converters ... Good one here !!!