Mitsubishi Montero & Montero Sport This sport utility vehicle offers more size than the other Mitsubishi SUVs, but manages to keep a sporty look and comfortable feel, unlike many larger SUVs.

Coolant leaking everywhere!

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  #1  
Old 07-28-2015, 04:15 PM
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Default Coolant Leak / Overheat / No Start

Hey guys, I just purchased a 1998 Montero Sport LS V6 and while driving it home on the highway I started losing power and so I pulled over and smoke started pouring out from under the hood and there was coolant EVERYWHERE.

Called AAA to tow it and just got home.

What are some things I should look at to find the leak? Are there are any common coolant problems with these?

I figured I'd start with replacing both hoses.

#1 - How do I know if it's the radiator or not?
#2 - How do I know if it's the head gasket?
#3 - Should I replace thermostat too?

Trying to figure out the best way to find the leak without running the car and blowing the motor..

Thanks,
David
 

Last edited by thellamattina; 08-06-2015 at 08:19 PM.
  #2  
Old 07-28-2015, 08:42 PM
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If you did not fry the engine, you can refill the cooling system with water and run it. Once engine warms up, pressure in the cooing system should build up and once coolant starts circulating through the radiator you should be able to see where the hole is. By what you describe - you have a significant leak and this should show it readily. In fact it is possible that you will see the leaking spot just when you refill the cooling system with water. I keep saying to use water because once you find the leak you will most likely have to drain all or most of the coolant out. Save money and environment by using water until you know the system is all buttoned up.
 
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Old 07-28-2015, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by HunterD
If you did not fry the engine, you can refill the cooling system with water and run it. Once engine warms up, pressure in the cooing system should build up and once coolant starts circulating through the radiator you should be able to see where the hole is. By what you describe - you have a significant leak and this should show it readily. In fact it is possible that you will see the leaking spot just when you refill the cooling system with water. I keep saying to use water because once you find the leak you will most likely have to drain all or most of the coolant out. Save money and environment by using water until you know the system is all buttoned up.
Thanks for the response! I really appreciate the help.

If was planning on draining and re-filling with all new coolant once everything is fixed..

#1 - If i use water to test the system/find the leak how do I make sure ALL the water is out before adding new coolant? Or does it not really matter.

#2 - Do I refill from the radiator cap hole or through the reservoir? How much should I pour in?
 
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:37 PM
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It is likely that you still have some coolant in the system. If you refill with water you drop concentration from 50/50 to say 30/70 of coolant to water. Once you are done testing and replacing hoses you can "gestimate" how much fluid you've lost and refill the system with straight antifreeze. This will bring the coolant dilution back to near 50/50 level. After you run the car for few days (to let the coolant cycle through the system and expansion tank) you can test it with one of the cheep coolant testers to see if you have good boil over and freeze protection. If its too weak - drain some and add more straight antifreeze.

One important thing to pay attention to on current Montero engines and likely on the older ones is to properly bleed the air out of the system. I do not know how the '98 engine is setup, but look for a bleeder screw near the thermostat. You need to open it up to let the air escape, otherwise you will not get proper fluid circulation. It would help if you can find a manual online to read how to properly bleed the system.
 
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:35 PM
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UPDATE:

So I let the car sit over night and didn't touch it until this evening.
When I opened the hood I noticed the coolant reservoir was still at the full line... even after spraying everywhere. So I am assuming the system had TOO much coolant (obviously) and maybe it just sprayed out of the overflow hose onto of the reservoir. I am not 100% positive about this though.

So I attempted to start the car and it will not start... The motor attempts
to turn over and makes the pulleys/belt turn but it will not start.. I tried jumping it and still nothing.

I do not THINK the motor is seized completely.. because it tries to turn over but obviously something is preventing it from not starting.

What could be causing this and how do I start narrowing down problems?

Or is there a way to tell if the motor is shot?
 
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:46 PM
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Sounds like it probably isn't seized or all that stuff wouldn't be turning... I've never tried but I am pretty sure it takes a while to actually seize an engine with a cooling system problem, you can however easily fry a head gasket.. I've done it before.

Did you notice where the temp gauge was when the coolant came out? Was it only running briefly when this happened?

It's either fuel, spark or compression that's causing it to not start since you said you are cranking.

Are you equipped/capable to check those things?

If you have a scanner I'd check to see if it set any codes, that might give you some insight...

Do you at the very least hear the fuel pump (buzzing or humming from back of car) come on when you turn the key to run? You do have fuel left in the tank right??
 
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Guyfromhe
Sounds like it probably isn't seized or all that stuff wouldn't be turning... I've never tried but I am pretty sure it takes a while to actually seize an engine with a cooling system problem, you can however easily fry a head gasket.. I've done it before.

Did you notice where the temp gauge was when the coolant came out? Was it only running briefly when this happened?

It's either fuel, spark or compression that's causing it to not start since you said you are cranking.

Are you equipped/capable to check those things?

If you have a scanner I'd check to see if it set any codes, that might give you some insight...

Do you at the very least hear the fuel pump (buzzing or humming from back of car) come on when you turn the key to run? You do have fuel left in the tank right??
Did not notice the temp gauge.. unfortunately. No idea if the gauge was even working or not.

There are no CEL's on the dash or any warning lights for that matter.

I do not have the tools or know how to check compression or spark, I am rather mechanically inclined and have worked on many cars (even rebuilt a mercedes transmission valve body) but do not know about compression testing/spark etc.

I will check to see if the fuel pump is buzzing and report back as well as check the oil.

In the mean time any more ideas or suggestions are welcome!
 

Last edited by thellamattina; 07-29-2015 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:34 PM
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Have you started it since this blow out or is this the first attempt to start?

Could also check for blown fuses under the hood while your in there poking around.. Only takes a few minutes however unlikely under the circumstances it can't hurt to check and stranger things have happened.

Sounds like you can probably do the tests if you want to grab some tools I've seen others do them but never had the need myself.. It looks fairly straightforward.

If it did get really really toasty it's possible you cooked the head gasket which could possibly stop it from ever achieving the right air/fuel mixture to fire up...A compression test would tell you that pretty quick.
 
  #9  
Old 07-30-2015, 12:16 AM
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Guyfromhe is correct - when you have crank-no-start condition, most likely culprits are spark, fuel, compression (timing). Check fuzes, see if you have spark, then fuel. Work your way down the line methodically. I'd advice testing components instead of throwing parts at it blindly. Make sure to do some searching on this forum. There might be a thread describing similar situation and it may point you in the right direction faster.

I doubt a blown head gasket is a culprit in engine not starting. If you have a blown head gasket, you'll get lack of power, overheating and perhaps rough idle. But not starting? Not so sure about that one. Your engine will start and run with 4 out of 6 cylinders working.
 
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:55 AM
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I've never seen a head gasket cause a no start myself but I was trying to find something that correlates to an overheating condition...
 


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