Sweet than I can save money on seasoning ;p

 

I just found this video about diagnosing crank no starts... He seems to know what he's talking about and goes into pretty good detail on his tests if you have some time to watch:

 

Matt's videos are AWESOME!!! Totally recommend watching his entire channel. Big fan

 

He just came up on my recommended by Youtube and he seemed fairly entertaining and educational so I subscribed... I've never seen him before but since the video was quite relevant to this topic I figured I'd post it.

 

Highly recommend watching his other videos. Some of them are kind of long, but he does very good job explaining how the "magic" box (PCM) and the various sensors work together. Makes working on the fuel injected cars much easier. The trick with the oil/coolant mix test on a hot place (tuna can) is from one of his videos

 

I have been watching them..I like scannerdanner too but his detail level is a little trying since he's explaining stuff I already know..

The PCMs aren't magic boxes to me, I understand how all that works it's the mechanical stuff that amazes and confuses me...

I get the basics of internal combustion and listen and watch a lot of how to stuff so I have the concepts but I don't actually turn wrenches

 

Thanks for all of the comments guys, sorry I did not get back sooner.

I will be doing the plugs and wires tomorrow, and will be replacing the intake manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets while I have everything apart...

I will also be doing a compression test while I have things apart but I am not sure what kind of pressure numbers I should be looking for from each cylinder? Does anyone know what good and bad numbers are?

I will also try the oil trick and report back tomorrow evening!

I am still not sure how to test the fuel pump, I am not very knowledgeable about the fuel system and don't know how or even where to connect a gauge.

 

If it's a 3.0L engine look here: Part 1 -How to Test Engine Compression (3.0L Mitsubishi)

The service manual should have the actual specifications listed for your car as well.

I would imagine if compression was the problem stopping it from starting at all the numbers would be obviously low or out of whack in some way... You can post the results for some opinions if you can't find he specs.


Not all cars have it but if you look around the fuel rails inside the engine bay there may be a schrader valve you can hook onto. If you don't have that you may need to get an adapter to hook into the fuel system. Again these specs should be in the service manual as well. If it's extremely low there is a problem though...

If you do find this valve you can give it a poke with a small tool and see if fuel squirts out after cranking for a few seconds.
That will at least confirm fuel in the engine bay and if it dribbles or shoots out will give you an idea about the kind of pressure it's under. Obviously don't do this with a hot engine or around any source of ignition.

One more super quick and easy test... Does giving it like 1/4 throttle while attempting to start do anything?

 

I do not believe any Moneros come with schaider valve. It is common on US vehicles but not on Japanese ones. If you do find one, I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND AGAINST poking fuel rail schaider valve with anything. It will not give you any useful information besides the confirmation that there is SOME fuel in the system. You can have 5 PSI pressure and it will squirt fuel every where. The nominal pressure is somewhere near 30-40 PSI, but you will not be able to tell 5 PSI from 30 with this test. If you do not have a tool for the job - do not do it.

 

Hey guys, so after 1 zillion bolts and disconnecting tons of hoses and electronic connectors I finally got the plenum up off the motor.

#1 - The motor looks very sludgy/grimy as well as the interior of the intake manifold.. What would this mean? Is this a very bad sign??
The globs of stuff near the hole openings is just some sealant that was used with the old gasket whenever it was replaced.



#2 - I need to remove both valve cover's as well to replace the valve cover gasket because it is leaking. Do I just simply remove the valve cover bolts? Or do I have to remove other stuff in order to take them off?

I will be doing the compression test this evening and will report back later tonight on my findings of the pressure from each cylinder. Keeping my fingers crossed!!