Greetings to all. I have a 94 Montero with badly leaking power steering lines. Here is a pic looking up after removing the two skid pans: Spews out pretty badly when the engine is running.



The pressure line and return line go to the steering box, which is on the drivers side. The darn hood hold rod was constantly in the way, so in this pic you can see a red rope holding the hood all the way up, and tied to the roof rack.......now I dont have to worry about the rod slipping loose, and being eaten alive while bent over under the hood:



I had to remove the battery box/tray, which is not a simple manuever.....alot of hoses, wires, and gadgets attached to the battery tray. With it removed, you can better access the ends of the two power steering lines:







There is very little room to muscle the wrench to get these lines loose. I tried a piece of wood wedged on the right side, and a pry bar between the wood and the wrench, but cant get that rascal to budge. Does anyone have a better way to remove these two lines at the steering box? Would using a torch to heat the steering box top around the line entry be advisable?

Getting the high pressure line loose (way below the P.S. Resevior) was almost impossible until I loosened all the hold down screws and allowed it to drop a few inches.....and then I could remove the front tires, peel back the rubber flap and have good access to the connection: In the pic, a white rag is catching the leaking red P.S. fluid:



So, any tips on removing those lines at the steering box would be appreciated.

 

First of all - that's an OMFL (Old Montero Fog Lubrication) system you are trying to remove/fix.

Second, as far as pipe connectors, the only issue I see with using heat, is that it may damage any rubber seals around that area (in the PS pump). On the other hand - you don't need to get those nuts red hot, just to heat up a little. It say go for it with a very short flame duration just on that nut. If that doesn't work, you can try to add an air hammer action to the side of the wrench.

 

Hunter.......Yep, I had to pay alot extra for the optional OMFL system, installed at the factory......ha ha. Just wish the Fog Lubrication had coated the entire frame, from front to back, and maybe I wouldnt have those frame rust issues.

Using heat at the steering box.....yep, thats what I thought, just use minimal heat and see if that helps. Another idea I had is my dent repair hydraulic kit.....it has a wee little axe-shaped wedge that might fit between the wrench and the side fender, and I may be able to crank some lateral hydraulic force on the wrench with it. Dont think any type of air hammer would fit in that tight space. I might try taking the tire off and seeing if there is a better way thru that rubber flap.

 

You are right about a hydraulic wedge. I've seen one in a tube bending kit. I didn't even think about it, but it may work, plus it is more controllable than an air hammer.

 

Hunter..........Well, I got out the hydraulic wedge, but did not think it would really work in this tight situation. Set it up, and managed to squeeze it between the wrench and the side metal fender, and the sucker actually worked great.......but can only push a bit at a time, and then I need to release it, and put various sizes of wood blocks between it and the wrench or the metal fender. Slow process, but at least I have managed to unscrew it about 3 to 4 turns.....but it is not getting any easier to turn. I also tried some torch heat on it, and more penetrating fluid, and its not turning any easier. Pics:




Wedge pushing wrench counter-clockwise:



Using blocks of wood:







Cant get much action from the wheel well......I can flip the wrench up-side-down and it will stick out right beside the top of the shock, and I can barely push it in a couple inches, and then have to work from under the hood. Repeat the process over and over again, and have only backed it out maybe 3 - 4 turns.



Has anyone else ever tried to remove these power steering lines? I wonder how many hours were allocated in the factory service manuals? (Multiply by 10 for a rusty, 25 yr-old Monty).

Will tackle it some more tomorrow, and hopefully the PB Blaster will continue to work.

 

You're on the right track. Almost sounds like the nuts and the pump had "grown" close together over time. Try to spin it another way now (half a turn) to see if the crud will loosen up. Does the nut rotate free on the pipe, or is the pipe moving with the nut? Any chance you can take the pump and pipes all out together of the vehicle to work on them on the bench?

 

Yep........the steering box and nuts have "melded" a bit. The pump is on the other side of the motor, and it sends these lines over/under, and up to the steering box......I had looked keenly at the steering box and was thinking about removing it, but thats just way too much work.

I guess I could try pushing the wrench back clockwise a bit and see if that helps, per your comments.
Yep, that skinny nut is rotating free on the pipe, and not shearing off the pipe.....its just super tight and onwry.

Upon more reflection of the situation, it would be very tempting to just cut out a large section of the inner fender to make access to these nuts alot better......and then just make some mounts to screw it back into place.

 

Hunter........I had a major Homer "DOHHHHHHH!!!!!!" last night..............



As I was sleeping, I got nailed on the knoggin with a huge pipe wrench........and it made the little light go on inside my head. DOH!!!........Getting back to that impossible pipe fitting that is so hard to remove, well...........................
since I have new lines ordered from Rock Auto, and on the way, then why not just cut the little gremlin about an inch above the nut, and then I can just use a normal socket and extensions to easily remove that nut.

DOHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!
So, guess I will snip the line off today and make life alot easier on mee-self.
What say you?

 

I was just thinking about suggesting to cut the lines, but figured - you've surely already considered that option and for whatever reason decided against it. Oh well, tells me how much I know... You know how we get caught up in doing something and get so focused on one issue, that you don't see a better idea until it hits you in the head (in your case - literally)

 

Hunter.....Yep, I just did not think about the "simple" approach......of cutting the lines. Guess you have to suggest everything to Knuckleheads like me.
Here is a pic of the small 3" cut-off tool that worked perfect for this job:



Larger Low Pressure Line cut:



Now the 17mm socket, extensions, and wrench fit perfectly.......still hard to turn, but she came off:



These are the wrascals......larger dia low pressure line, and smaller dia high pressure line: