Yeah, so I have a 98 Montero that is stalling. I have to wait 10-15mins before it will start again. I thought coil, so I replaced the coil and the ignition control module; however Im still getting the same thing. Any body else suffer this?

 

Welcome. I don't have this problem but I would check your fuel filter and make certain that you're getting fuel; also that your PCV and EGR valves are operating correctly. Hopefully, someone around here with more brains than I've got will chime in with some more specific advice.

Does your vehicle run and then die? If so, how long until it does die? Does it run normally until it dies or does it lack power? Any noise or smell associated with your problem? Any info could be helpful....

 

No noise smell or problems. Its typical of a bad coil wherein it dies and just will not reset until the coil is cool. I changed the coil and icm....still the same problem
. I asked at NAPA if the resistor looking things might be of cause and he said No, they can only be noise suppression for the radio. It has to be electronic would be my guess. The fuel filter is fairly new

 

Clean the ISCM "idle speed control motor" or Throttle body might be clogged with carbon build up which is a common build up. the EGR is not gonna make it die, it only causes rough idle. EGR would have to be open ALL the time...

 

Thanks for the replies. I am wondering if any body knows what the two condensers attached to my coil bracket are? One is square and one is round. If one of these are part of my ignition, then this can very well be the problem. The guy at Napa told me there is no condenser for ignition, only for noise suppression. I think he is full of it!

 

Gunter ~ I only have the schematics for up to 1996, which is showing only one power transistor between the ECU and the coils. As far as knowledge of auto parts employees goes, I used to think that they were like Automotive Gods when I was a kid, and they probably were in the sense of really knowing cars and what made them run, but nowadays they seem to hire just anybody off the street whether they can tell a crankcase from pitman arm or not, so it's entirely hit and miss.

There is a transistor here listed as #3, or is this not what you're talking about?
http://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html

I know in my old Honda CX500, the noise suppression transistor was in the long reach part of the ignition wire; the part that went into the cylinder. We used to remove these as they became corroded over time, weakening the spark and cutting performance. We'd unscrew the insides and remove the transistor and spring and replace it with a length of welder's solid copper. Is Mitsubishi's setup similar? An interesting question. Anyone know?

I'll be looking into your question in the meantime; hopefully someone with your exact year and model can pipe up with some more useful information for us all.

C'mon, don't be shy

 

I couldnt get the diagram.....though upon further research I discovered that the Idle air control valve can exhibit this same problem. I am experiencing a fluxing idle. Bad part is that this is another140.00........if the coil and icm didnt just take 170.00 I would order it right away. However when I do get this part I will keep everybody informed whether this works or not.

 

Yes, it could indeed be that, or an air leak. But a bad idle control servo seems more likely. Here's how the book recommends checking it:

Have an assistant turn the key to ON (Not start). The servo should make an audible sound. If it is silent, check the electrical connection for integrity. If that appears OK, disconnect the plug at the servo unit and check the resistance:

1 | 2 | 3
— — —
4 | 5 | 6

Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 1 and then between terminals 2 and 3. It should read between 28 to 33 ohms.

If that checks out you remove the unit and then hook up a 6 volt power source to terminals 2 and 5. You then in turn hook up the negative source to terminals 3 and 6, then 1 and 6, then 1 and 4, then 3 and 4, then to 3 and 6 again. If it vibrates in your hand slightly each time a connection is made, it's OK. If it doesn't, renew it.

Let us know what you find out so you can get back on the road...

 

I have stalling problems much like the original poster. Mine stalls because the rpms are too low, which is around 250 rpms.

Tried mothman52's testing method for the IAC. Mine ohm'd out around 41- 47, which seems pretty high.

'01 Montero Sport LS

 

I have experianced this on my 1995... Check the fuel pump relays for initial clicking and then when it dies check the clicking again... You may find that when it dies then relay will not click until it cools. It's very helpful if 2 people do this since the fuel pump relays are under the hood on the drivers side panel...
Peace out...