Another thought - email me directly: ems1255@comcast.net and leave your phone number if you want - it would be easier to communicate directly. (unless you're not in the US)

Ron

 

Thinking more about your "rusted" comment. I think you probably are working on the wrong bolts since the ones that mount the seat to the floor go all the way through to the underside of the body and could indeed be rusted.

The bolts you should be looking for are higher up, not near the floor they're - just below the bottom front edge of the cushion. The bolt heads point to the front of the car - they are horizontal, not vertical. Once you remove them the front edge of the cushion can be lifted up and the whole cushion can be pulled straight out. Should be very easy.

Ron

 

Hey its me again. Thx for ur post. And maybe i kinda exaggerated the rust part. But its being soaked right now and unfortuantly, its pouring outside where i live. i know exactly what screws you are talking about. And yes they are 12mm i think. Just two of them. I think i will use the jumper cable idea. However...would it matter how many volts my car battery is. because i don't wanna screw the motor up now. Gonna try to get to the screws, idk how i'm gonna do it. If it doesn't work tom. i'm gonna go to autozone and borrow a tool from them??? Idk if they have a power tool for what i need.

 

OK. Hope the weather improves. Don't worry about the battery voltage. Your battery by itself provides less voltage than when the car is running. So there's no worry about hurting the motor.

For safety, you might try clamping one end of the jumper cables to a short peice of wood or wooden broom stick (about 6 inches apart) then clamp the other end to your battery.

Get some small automotive hook up wire at Autozone or some hook up wire clips from Radio Shack. Stick one end between the clamps and the wooden stick. Cut about a half inch of insulation off the other ends and stick them into the male half of the connector (with the black and red wires)

If the seat back moves the wrong way - reverse the wires and it should move forward.

Ron

 

hey its me again. I know which bolts you are talking about. Man i can't even believe they are stuck in that good. The bolts point to the engine and my bolts have the number 7 written on them. Idk about yours, but i don't think thats significant. I broke my hand tool today trying to loosen the bolts. I will have to go somewhere and temporarily borrow a tool. I tried doing everything with those bolts man. WD40, well i put some write now and let it soak overnight. vinegar....hot vinegar... It still won't come lose. Its unbelievable.
ok...since i am going to use you jumper cable idea, if it is problem it truly because of switch and not dust. If the seat moves the wrong direction, i flip the wires. By this do u mean. If the red wire is on red...move it to black and vice versa..only on the motor end. I know the wires have to match when putting them on the jumper cables. I will let you know what happens tom. to the seat.

 

Yes, the bolts do have a "7" on them. Can't believe they're that tight.

Looking closer, I think you can get to the connector without taking the cushion off. Raise the front of the seat to the max and look in from the front. You can see the black control box and at the rear corner the connector with the foam tape on it. I haven't tried it but you might be able to reach in, peel back the tape and separate the connector. I think the motor end (black & red) will then come forward to where you can insert the jumper wires.

When you do get to it, yes, your're correct - by reversing the wires I mean just swapping one for the other. DC motors run in both directions depending on the polarity of the supply. That's all the factory switch does - it reverses the voltage to the motor.

Ron

 

alrit man....i have no idea what to do right now. I have to go to autozone and get something from them. THAT SCREW WILL NOT COME OUT!!!!! Its just unbelievable man.....goodness.
I do see the foam thing you talkin' about....is it wrapped in yellow foam?? If thats the one your talkin' about then..yes i do see it. However from the front the yellow foam is located on the middle right(when looking from top of control box) of the control box. Is this the same one...cause i think you said something about on the rear left?
Ok...i am still confused on the wiring thing.
1. hook BOTH?? jumpers to the battery or just one of the jumpers
2. Clamp the other end?? or ends?? to a wood plank
3. If i do hook both jumpers into the battery...that means i have to hook up a red wire to the red jumper on the wood and same for the black?
4. If the seat moves the wrong way....is the red wire supposed to touch the black wire on the motor end and the black supposed to touch the red?

As u can tell...i'm not very good with the electrical stuff...but if you could label in steps for me...that would be great.

Another question. If infact none of the bypassing works and the problem is in the motor in the backrest. Am i gonna have more trouble? Because when i looked at the seat today...i saw a wire going into my backrest. What if the problem is up there and not down in the control box.

Sry about all these questions

 

Ok - let's take it from the top.

First, If you can get a bigger wrench that will break the bolt loose, then get one. I don't mean to be insulting, but I've got to ask - you are trying to turn them counter-clockwise aren't you? But in any case - don't worry too much about taking them out. It would be a lot easier if you could get the cushion off but you can fix this by reaching under the seat.

The foam covered connector you saw is the same one. Looking in from the front it's closer to the right side of the box. If you had the seat off and were looking down on it it would be on the driver's side - that's why I said left the first time.

Get a good light source and you will see that the end of the connector that is facing you is gray and that a corrugated black tube runs right up to the connector. Pull back on that tube and you should see the black and red wires inside that go to the seat motor.

The connector has a snap lock mechanism so you'll need to reach in with one hand and squeeze the narrow sides of the closest end of the connector. Squeze hard and then pull - don't pull first. It may take you a few tries but you should get it to come apart. Then pull the loose end (with the red and black wires) toward you and you'll see the end of the connector. There are two slots and just inside them are the brass connectors for the wires.

All you need to do is to apply 12v to those brass connectors. An easy way to do this is to go to Radio Shack and buy some small jumper wires with aligator clips on both ends. (they come in a pack with in various colors) You can stick the small aligator clips into the slots in the connector and clamp onto one side of the brass contacts. Another method is to strip about a quarter on an inch of insulation off of a small gauge wire like speaker wire and hold the bare wires to the contacts.

So where do you get the 12v? I mentioned the cigarete lighter idea and the jumper cable idea. If you want to use jumper cables here are the steps I'd use. NOTE: If you really are not comfortable with electrics don't mess with it. Go to any shop or even a service station, show them the connector and explain what you are trying to do. It should only take them a few minutes to hook up a battery.

Again, now that the disclaimer is out of the way, here's what I would do.

1) Clamp one end (both black and red clamps) of the jumper cables to a small piece of wood at least six inches apart. This is just to make sure they don't touch during and after step 2.

2) Connect the other ends (black and red) to the corresponding terminals on your battery.

3) Move the piece of wood near to the seat. Now you have your 12V in the right area.

4)I just checked my car and to get the seat to tilt forward, you connect the red seat wire to the black jumper cable. And the black seat wire to the red jumper cable. If you have the Radio Shack clips you can attach two clips to the seat connector and just touch the other ends to the jumper cable clamps and your seat should tilt. If you go too far, just reverse the connection (red to red and black to black) and it will tilt back.

5) If you are using speaker wire, you can have someone hold the ends to the jumper cable clamps while you stick the other ends into the connector.

That should do it.

Ron

 

hey...thx soooo much for the detailed message. Appreciate it greatly. Hahaha...no i'm turning my wrench the right way. Seems were having more problems with the car. Now the car isn't even cranking. Battery is a couple days old. We will be towing it to our mechanic. All dash lights and power stuff works. Its not even giving me a crank. Not even a little "rrr" It is just silent. If i try to crank it too long though, i will hear the noise like something is scraping against something. Its like if u try to start a car that is already started. you'll hear with scraping noise. I'll hear that after a few seconds of cranking it. Any ideas of what it might be?

 

Too bad you have more problems. With the seat stuck laying back and no engine it will make a great place to take a nap - maybe sit a TV on the hood Still can't figure out how those bolts got rusted way up inside your seat. Was the truck in a flood?

Can't help with the no-start symptoms but, please, while it's in the shop have your mechanic get the seat cushion off and run 12v to the motor.

Good luck.

Ron