removing crank
#1
removing crank
Which way do you remove the crank from the Montero sport's 3.0 w/4x4 ?
At this point Im not talking details, just something general like "remove all obstacles under engine and remove it or remove engine to remove it. I looked around for the explanation and even checked "so you dont have a manual" but there was nothing addressing my question. It assumes you already know how to remove it.I thought i had read about this somewhere on this site recently,but I couldnt relocate the post. And no...Im not planning on doing it myself.
At this point Im not talking details, just something general like "remove all obstacles under engine and remove it or remove engine to remove it. I looked around for the explanation and even checked "so you dont have a manual" but there was nothing addressing my question. It assumes you already know how to remove it.I thought i had read about this somewhere on this site recently,but I couldnt relocate the post. And no...Im not planning on doing it myself.
#2
I'd work from the top. Similar procedure to doing the timing belt. You will need to remove fan, serpentine belt, at the very least move alternator, and A/C compressor out of the way and remove the front mounted bracket that holds tensioner and pulleys. After that you will have enough space to get to the crank pulley. I assume that is what you are going after.
#3
What Hunter said and more. To get the crank out, you will need to remove the oil pan, oil pump strainer, remove the bolts from the torque converter (automatic) or clutch. You will also need to unbolt all of the rods. There are many more obstacles as well.
You will have to remove the motor. The rear main seal is a full seal which bolts to the back of the motor. These bolts are only accessible with the motor removed. The crank can't be removed unless the seal housing is unbolted.
If you roached a bearing you are apt to have metal fragments everywhere in the motor which would then need a thorough cleaning.
I am knee deep in this for a 3.5L. My motor spun two rod bearings. I suspect the process for your 3.0L would be near identical.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...removal-48920/
You will have to remove the motor. The rear main seal is a full seal which bolts to the back of the motor. These bolts are only accessible with the motor removed. The crank can't be removed unless the seal housing is unbolted.
If you roached a bearing you are apt to have metal fragments everywhere in the motor which would then need a thorough cleaning.
I am knee deep in this for a 3.5L. My motor spun two rod bearings. I suspect the process for your 3.0L would be near identical.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...removal-48920/
Last edited by larry4406; 03-17-2016 at 04:43 AM.
#4
I guess it is not completely clear to me if PalmSprings is going after the crankshaft or the crankshaft pulley. What I described is only for getting to crankshaft pulley and crankshaft position sensor. Not for removing the crankshaft itself.
#5
No sense in having one coherent thread I guess.
#6
I'd work from the top. Similar procedure to doing the timing belt. You will need to remove fan, serpentine belt, at the very least move alternator, and A/C compressor out of the way and remove the front mounted bracket that holds tensioner and pulleys. After that you will have enough space to get to the crank pulley. I assume that is what you are going after.
Last edited by PalmSprings; 03-19-2016 at 08:06 PM.
#7
What Hunter said and more. To get the crank out, you will need to remove the oil pan, oil pump strainer, remove the bolts from the torque converter (automatic) or clutch. You will also need to unbolt all of the rods. There are many more obstacles as well.
You will have to remove the motor. The rear main seal is a full seal which bolts to the back of the motor. These bolts are only accessible with the motor removed. The crank can't be removed unless the seal housing is unbolted.
If you roached a bearing you are apt to have metal fragments everywhere in the motor which would then need a thorough cleaning.
I am knee deep in this for a 3.5L. My motor spun two rod bearings. I suspect the process for your 3.0L would be near identical.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...removal-48920/
You will have to remove the motor. The rear main seal is a full seal which bolts to the back of the motor. These bolts are only accessible with the motor removed. The crank can't be removed unless the seal housing is unbolted.
If you roached a bearing you are apt to have metal fragments everywhere in the motor which would then need a thorough cleaning.
I am knee deep in this for a 3.5L. My motor spun two rod bearings. I suspect the process for your 3.0L would be near identical.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...removal-48920/
Last edited by PalmSprings; 03-19-2016 at 08:02 PM.
#8
I wanted to know if the crank was coming out the bottom or the engine had to come out to remove it. I was considering having a friend of mine do it if the engine didnt need removed,
#9
Larry, thats because there wasnt any need for reference from one post to another.
Last edited by PalmSprings; 03-19-2016 at 10:06 PM.
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