I have a 2001 Montero XLS that needs a timing belt change and a new brake booster. I have a shop manual that shows how to do the timing belt but it looks like you need a special tool for the belt tensioner. Anyone know a work around on this before I attempt this beast? Also, brake booster has gone out and I was going to replace it but was wondering if the brake repair kits that I see vs an entire brake booster replacement is even a consideration? I don't see anything in my shop manual on how to rebuild a brake booster on the XLS - looks like everyone simply replaces the entire mechanism which is costly ~ $1200 for the entire master cylinder which includes the pump and accumulator. Anyone know of anyone that rebuilds these for cheaper then replacing new? Thanks, -J

 

Can't vouch for this supplier but here's an adaptor for tourqing the tensioner:
http://www.ecrater.com/p/5408028/mit...nsion-adjuster

If you search for timing belt wrench you will see other options.

I made something similar when I did mine. With this you will need a small torque wrench that is accurate at lower levels. Someone posted photos of their TB project showing a special torque wrench with the two pins built in. Check around the major tool shops plus Sears and you may be able to find one - if you don't want to use the adaptor above.

As for the booster I'd look for a used one before buying a new one. Don't know about rebuilding but it sounds kind of iffy to me. Try www.msrecycling.com or eBay for used. If all else fails try www.mitsubishiparts.com for a better price on a new factory part.

Ron

 

Thanks Ron,
Will investigate the tool site you forwarded. On the brakes, I hate
to spend $1200 for a new HBB but I guess thats what I will end up doing. Kind of worried about a used one, since this was a part that was originally under a recall. There a lot of seal repair kits for the HBB but no instructions and can't find anything on the internet about it. Nothing in my shop manual either. Probably wouldn't work anyway. Thanks again. -J

 

14" pipe wrench works magic for this task. Place it on the inner and outer part of the pully perpendicular to the crank. Works very well breaking torque on the bolt and very well torquing the bolt.
Oh, and also for the tensioner I made a small tool out of flat steel and some bolts that fit in the pully. Or a good pair of needle nose pliers.

 

I just did mine this past weekend, and I had no special tools. Granted, it is more of a leap of faith than confidence, but, sometimes you just gotta work with the tools you have (..or don't in my case)
As you may already know, there's a hydraulic auto tensioner that is made to put the right amount of tension on the TB. The key is, to collapse the cylinder and insert a nail (the special tool is a "key" into the hole on the housing and through the piston to hold it in place while you torque the pully down.
I torqued the pulley by hand (as hard as I could, making sure the tensioner pulley carrier was making full contact with the tensioner piston, still locked with the key) while tightening the retaining bolt to 33ft-lbs. Then, I pulled the nail (key), releasing the tensioner piston. I did this a few times until the piston didn't move more than 1/8". There is at least another 1/2" or so of play in the piston, so I'm relatively confident there's enough play left in the tensioner.

 

Thanks, I will give it a try.