I am getting ready to change my transmission fliud this weekend. I have an '01 Montero Sport calling for SPIII I assumed that was equivalent to ATF+3. Can some one please tell me if my assuptions are correct? An if I am wrong how much does a quart of the dealer stuff run?

Thank,

 

When I changed my ATF fluid in my 92 I wanted to use full synthetic. I settled on RedLine Oil and they spec'd a Chrysler Trans Fluid called C+ATF. Is the ATF+3 a Chrysler type? You can email them at www.redineoil.com. It may be hard to get it for this weekend though. Not sure of course how they would spec. your oil. Just out of interest how are you going to change the fluid?

 

I was planning on following the instructions from alldatadiy.com.
which is as follows

Disconnect the hose shown in the illustration which connects the transmission and the oil cooler (inside the radiator). Place a container under the hose to collect the discharge. CAUTION: The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is started. If the A/T fluid has all drained out before then, the engine should be stopped at that point. Discharge volume: Approximately 4.0 dm3 (4.2 quarts)

Start the engine and let the A/T fluid drain out. Running conditions: "N" range with engine idling

then It says to drain the pan.

at that point I was going to replace the filter.

put everything back then fill with fluid just not sure which yet.

The ATF+3 I mentioned is a chrysler type.

 

I stands to reason that Chrysler fluid will work in Mitsubishi given the Corporate and manufacturing connection of the two firms.

I changed my ATF fluid with the method you posted. I learned from the event and modified the procedure a little. First I found it was impossible to measure the fluid as it comes out of the rad cooler hose. What I did requires a helper also. You first need to determine which hose is the "to the cooler" hose and which is the "return to trans" hose as you want to drain the trans from the "return to trans" side of the cooler since this will flush and clean the rad cooler as well. I took a guess and disconnected one hose while using a short piece of hose on the bare rad connection and pointed both into a container. Use a large oil drain container as the trans holds many quarts. I had my wife be my helper and she turned on the vehicle just for a short 2-3 seconds so I could observe the flow of the ATF fluid. As it turned out my first guess was a good one so I did not have to swich the hoses. I then took my new ATF fluid which I had bought in the right number of quart bottles plus two extra quarts for safety. I then opened each quart and got ready for the next step. Be prepared as it is a bit of a keep up procedure. With my wife still being my helper I had her start the truck while I poured each new quart into the trans dip stick at a rate that the trans would take it (use a funnel). All the while the trans was pumping the old fluid out through the rad cooler. When I finished with the last quart I did one more quart for good measure and had my wife shut the engine off. That left me with 1 quart left over. During this process you may need to have the helper turn the engine off a couple of times if things get ahead of you. I then re-attached the trans hoses and checked the level and topped up if necessary. I did not bother to drain the pan as when you pour the new fluid in, it will displace the old as the trans sucks from the pan. You can however pull the pan off and clean the filter if you want. I also installed a trans oil filter that connects inline with the cooler hose to the cooler from the trans. Best place is this link: http://www.bulkpart.com/ I used a 3/8" model. Hope this helps.

 

PC's procedure sounds great. I hear that is the method that is described in the FSM. One thing though, if you are going to drain the pan I would do it first not last. That would minimize mixing with the old fluid.

As far as the fluid SPIII IS NOT equivalent to ATF+3.

I have done a bit of research on this and based on some info that I got from some other forums, the SPIII is unique. However, it is the same fluid as is used on Hyudai and KIA. I also hear that the Hyundai fluid is about $1 cheaper than the Mitsu and the KIA is about $1 cheaper than the Hyundai?!?!? Anyway, they all should say that they are SPIII. These fluids are specially blended for these dealers. They are a synthetic blend, so they are pretty good fluids. The only other fluid out there that claims to be compatible with the SPIII spec is the AMSOIL ATF. However, I would stick the the dealer stuff. You dont need to change it that often, so I think the extra $ is worth the insurance.

For 99 and earlier MITSUs, Dexron III will work. I like to use the Mobil 1 ATF for my '95.

If you want to learn about fluids go to www.bobistheoilguy.com. A bunch of fluid FREAKS [8D]there, but VERY knowledgeable.

This is great! Finally getting some dialog going on this forum.

 

Well I just called Kia they quoted $4 a quart better than the $5.60 quoted by the mitsubishi dealer.

before I got the last response I called NAPA and they said ATF+4 is an equal to SPIII, and they also said they have an additive claiming that if added to ATF+3 it will make Diamond SPIII

dunno what ya'll might think about that. I'll stick with the Kia stuff

also more on the procedure.

in theory if I drain the pan first, leave hose connected. I could drain the pan, and start the car (with the plug still off) causing everything to flush to the pan and drain out. or should I just leave that idea alone, and stick with the first plan.

 

I would not trust what the NAPA guy said unless it was in writing. $4 a quart for semi synthetic sounds pretty good. You should doublecheck that the KIA fluid says SPIII. Don't take my word for it. I am just a guy on an anonymous forum.

To me synthetic oil for transmissions is more valueble than for an engine. A common cause for auto transmission failure is breakdown of the oil from overheating. Synthetic fluid is much more resistant to heat related breakdown.

As far as your latest flush method it is a BAD idea. The main thing when flushing your transmission is that you NEVER want to run your engine when there is no fluid in the Transmission pan. (yes I double checked the wording in that sentance)

Notice in PC's description he was carefull to keep filling the tranny pan as the fluid came out the cooler hose. He was not able to keep up all the time so his wife had to stop the car a couple times. Do not run the car if there is no fluid in the tranny pan.

Good luck

 

I CHANGED MY TRAN FLUID LAST WEEKEND. I HAVE THE SERVICE MANUAL, I WAS STRANGE TO ME THAT LET THE ENGINE RUN DURING CHANGED THE TRAN FLUID. I KNOW WHEN THE CAR IN THE PARKING OR N MODE, THE INTERNAL COMPONETS DO NOT MOVE BUT STILL I AM NOT TO SURE IT WILL DAMAGE THE TRAN. I JUST DRAIN AND FILL BY USING THE PLUG. I WILL CHANGED AGAIN NEXT YEAR 12K OR 15K

AS FAR THE TRAN FLUID I AM RECOMMENDED USE THE MITSUBISHI TRAN FLUID. IT IS ONLY $1 OR $2 MORE, AND YOU DON'T CHANGED THE TRAN FLUID AT ANOTHER 60K, WHAT DO YOU TRY TO SAVE, FEW BUCK OR YOUR TRUCK IF NOT THE RIGHT STUFF.

 

NaGoya75,
The problem with just draining from the pan is that you only get about a quart at best. Most of the fluid is in the torque converter and needs to be pumped out. The other alternative, and a lot cleaner and easier one, is to have Jiffy Lube or some other quick change company use their "trans flush and replace" machine do it for you. The equipment is just a cylinder with new fluid on one side of a piston and the old fluid is pushed by the engine on the other side of the piston. So the engine will automatically changes its fluid without running dry and will only replace fluid at the same rate it is being pumped out. I had this done several years ago for about $65, not sure how much now. My problem was and is I could not bring in my own trans fluid and had to use their brand. But it does work well as long as the employee doing the work knows what they are doing.

 

I got about 4 quart, i believe the complete system about 8 to 9 quart. I should use the method as people described above, but it is too late. next year or another 30k I will changed the trans fluid again use the method that let some fluid out of the cooling hose.
Even i just drain the pan, it is better than not change the oil at all, or dealer price $130