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Mitsubishi Montero & Montero SportThis sport utility vehicle offers more size than the other Mitsubishi SUVs, but manages to keep a sporty look and comfortable feel, unlike many larger SUVs.
I pulled the heads on my twin cam because I couldn't source a tool to get the keepers out. I had to use the old C-type spring compressor, but upside down and using a 3/4 x 3" pipe nipple with a slot cut down one side, as an extension to reach into the head. It went really fast and I was able to change every hose on the engine at the same time. I'll post a pic if anyone wants.
As far as vla's, change them to the upgraded ones, $120 for the set of 24 at partsology.com.
mxmikie, thanks for the offer to share the tool. That is very helpful.
For those who are interested, I did my valve seals replacement with the engine on the car. Followed the FSM and had each cylinder at TDC before removing the springs (no air pressure to keep valves up). Once spring was removed, the valve would move about 5-7 mm before contacting the top of the cylinder and stopping. To remove and install keepers, I used "Lisle 36050" Valve Keeper Remover and Installer Kit
. I was pretty impressed with how well this tool worked - one solid whack with a medium sized sledge hammer and the keepers are removed. Installation was just slightly trickier - had to get used to putting firm pressure on the tool while whacking at it couple times. Several times, keepers installed after just a single good hit.
A word of advice to anyone who wants to do this on the car - make sure you plug all 6 oil drain holes (3 on each side) on the heads as well as spark plug and intake holes. You do not want to loose the keepers in the bottom of the engine. As you imagine, the hardest cylinders to work with were #3 and #6 (closest to the firewall). I had to remove the vapor canister on passenger side to get good clearance in a straight line at the last spring on that side. I found #3 cylinder being harder to work on, even though #6 is slightly further back than #3. I wonder if that is because I'm right handed and the angle at which you need to swing at exhaust valve springs is awkward on the passenger side. For both of these cylinders, I've used couple of 10" extension for 1/4 size ratchet and a 26 mm socket to fit over the end of the tool. That brought the "business" end at which you can swing the hammer out of the engine compartment. It helped to have another person hold the installer tool centered over the spring at the same time. Only once during the whole procedure the tool slipped off the end of the spring and the keepers, spring and retainer ring went flying off all over the place. That was not fun.
One more note: I did not have to take camshafts out in order to do this work. Instead I left the timing belt connected and in time, and removed the rocker arm assemblies. You have to remove ALL 4 rocker arm assemblies (single over head cam on my engine) before starting to work on the springs. Initially I was going to do one side of the engine at a time, but if you leave any rocker arm assemblies in place, unless you are able to hold the camshafts in position, the camshafts could slip and rotate and move the cylinder you are working with away from TCD. Leaving the camshafts in time, allowed for a quick check of function once everything was competed. I could slowly rotate the engine and see that all rocker arms were moving properly and without binding.
Hunter, I am glad that you were able to do the seals 'in situ', but I firmly believe that the twin cam is so much more complex that removing the heads, in the long run, is actually easier. I would definitely do it again, over and over if needed.
Hunter, I am glad that you were able to do the seals 'in situ', but I firmly believe that the twin cam is so much more complex that removing the heads, in the long run, is actually easier. I would definitely do it again, over and over if needed.
I completely agree with you - removing the heads would make the work on valve seals much easier. I'd love to see how the dual cam heads are laid out. Can't imagine that 4 valves per cylinder in DOHC layout wound be much harder to work than 4 valves in the SOHC. If I had any at all reason to remove heads, I would have done it that way.
Hunter, I, in no way, meant to come across as criticizing you or second guessing your decision to keep the heads in place on your rig. I just was saying that I couldn't figure out any way to do it on my dohc, with the tools I had. It was no great struggle for me to pull the heads and figure out how to do the seals on the bench. An added benefit was that I could inspect the valves and guide fit as I went. Here's a fun pic of an old seal and a new one, needless to say, the valve stems were just wet with oil, lol!
No worries. Didn't even thought of your input as criticism. Just wondering out loud how the valves are laid out in DOHC engine - no personal experience working on them. It's possible that what you did is a preferred or recommended
way off doing it on that type of engine. I can tell you, that if you have a chance of using Mitsubishi valve spring tool, that would make the job a piece of cake.
I can see what you mean by springs seating deep inside the head. Looks like the camshafts push on the rockers from above? This would definitely make it more difficult to reach the springs. I think the tool I used will still work, but on the bench work would definitely be easier. Thank s for sharing the photo.
