My girlfriend has an 03 Outlander XLS that was purchased around 100k miles with no idea what has been done to it and I'm hoping I can get some guidance as far as what all needs to be done to it.

I pulled the cover off of the timing belt around 112k and it looked to be fairly new (thank god, I get to keep my tax return!), so that's one major service that I can check off the list for now.

The transmission fluid should be changed soon, and this is where I'm going to need the most help. I've found the Diamond SP III for $8/quart on MAP Performance, but I see that Royal Purple Max ATF is listed as meeting the specs for Diamond SP III. I run the RP ATF in the manual tranny in my Mustang and it works really well, but these Japanese trannies always seem to be much more finicky when it comes to oil (my Subaru is a picky bugger). Is there any problem with running the Royal Purple stuff? I work at CarQuest so I can get a deal on it, and it should hold up to ~50k services just fine. I have no problem running the factory stuff and changing it every 30k, I just want this car to last and not give her any troubles.

Regarding the filter in the transmission: I have Googled the crap out of this car trying to figure out everything I need to do and how to do it, and still can't come up with a good answer about the filter. Some say it's meant to be back-flushed by a shop and doesn't really need to be changed, others say that's a waste of time and you'll end up with used tranny fluid being pumped into the car, and others say that by this point the filter doesn't even need changed. I've studied the diagram of the transmission and come to the conclusion I'd rather pay a shop to deal with it rather than risk messing it up, but if it needs to be done it needs to be done.

Rear differential and transfer case seem time-consuming but nothing to worry about, but I haven't seen anything about how to drain and refill the front differential. Any input here would be very welcome. I intend to run Red Line 75w-90 in the front, TC, and rear diff.

Coolant and brake fluid appear to have been serviced recently, will probably hold off another year on the coolant and 2 years on the brake fluid (it still looks new!)

EDIT: Forgot the Power Steering fluid. From what I've read it takes a specific power steering fluid and not to use anything but the factory power steering fluid. I assume I should just buy 2 or 3 quarts so I can flush the old stuff out, top it off, and keep a little extra. Nothing else will work/is recommended?

Is there anything else to be aware of with this car? I'm trying to cover all the bases, she still owes about $5k on the car and walking/biking to work is not an option. Thanks in advance for any help I can get on this car!

 

If the fluid says it meets the specification your transmission needs it should be fine. I can't see how it could do any worse than OEM but it does suck to dump out perfectly good - and possibly expensive - oil because your transmission didn't like it.

Is there is a front differential? My 2009 only has the transfer case which I think does double duty in this setup. I put SVG 75W-90 in both diff and transfer case since they both call for GL-5 specs.

AMSOIL's application guide says the rear diff should use a GL-4 fluid - which seems strange. You should look up the specs on that in your manual to make sure. If RL is a dual GL-4/GL-5 fluid then it won't matter but SVG isn't.
2003 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER 2.4L 4-cyl Engine Code [G] 4G64 - AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide

Any off the shelf PS fluid should work - what makes you think it wouldn't?
The Outlander does take PS fluid instead of ATF if that's what you mean.

I've recently done the PS fluid, transfer case and rear differential on my 2009. The vehicle has been a reliable gas and go vehicle for us.
http://amsoil.nesser.org/tag/mitsubishi/

 

First off, thanks for all the input. I was just wondering if there were any known issues from people putting in something other than the factory fluid. Sometimes screwing around with different fluids can cause some issues (try running Mobil 1 LS in a Subaru 5MT, for example) which could be avoided by simply running the proper stuff in the first place. Looks like Motul and Eneos also make fluid that meets the Diamond SP 3 specifications as well, worth a shot I suppose.

I'm not sure if it's integrated into the transfer case or not, I hadn't seen anything about drain and fill locations for it. RL gear oil is Gl-4/5 if memory serves. It has done really well in the rear diff in my Suby so far, and it calls for GL-4 as well. Rear diff I could just as easily put some regular gear oil in though, doesn't sound like it's a very picky diff. I remember reading that the transfer case needs lube rated for Hypoid differentials though, so GL-5 in the TC for sure.

Interesting. I was reading (on this forum, I believe) that ATF in the power steering system will royally mess things up, I didn't know the cheaper off-the-shelf power steering fluid would work. Our computer system at work lists specs for fluids and such and it actually specifies some Mitsubishi-specific fluid for the P/S system. It also lists Dex/Merc as being OK in the transmission in an emergency, though it will reduce the life of the transmission. Lube Gard claims that if you add one of their additives to regular Dex/Merc it alters the friction properties to be compatible with Diamond SP 3 but unless that's been tried-and-true I'm not going to risk ruining her tranny over a ~$20 difference in fluids.

So far it has been a really good car and there have been no real problems in the 1+ years she's had the car. It's not terribly good on gas, dealer support sucks, and for someone that's used to working on Fords and Subarus it seems really picky but overall a very good car. I'm just doing my best to keep it maintained so that it continues to be a good car, I'm a huge believer in doing little maintenance things frequently in order to ward off big repair bills so I obsess about every little thing. Thanks again for the help.

EDIT: Any ideas on the transmission filter? I can read about it from 3 sources and get 5 different answers as far as what to do about it.

 

This might help you out - not sure what year its for but it looks like it is for the first generation Outlander which I don't have any experience with. Lots of reading for you!
http://outlander.kiev.ua/manual/Outlander_2.4_AT_MT/

I wouldn't be concerned using a good quality power steering fluid as it is the least stressed fluid in your vehicle. It doesn't see combustion and just needs to control seals and cool as a hydraulic fluid. I don't mess around with additives in any fluid - much rather purchase products that meet the specs provided by the manufacturer.

I have no idea - is there even a pan you can drop to access the filter without having to disassemble the transmission?
Not the same vehicle but this post talks about non-serviceable filters: https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...109/#post79202

Check out magnefine filters which are often recommended on Bob Is The Oil Guy if you are concerned about filtering the ATF fluid - won't remove the internal one but gives you a serviceable filter.

 

Sounds good, thank you very much for all the help. Now I can start collecting fluids and wait for a nice, warm day!