wondering if anyone can tell me how to adjust the idle of an 07 outlander with the v6. I live in NL Canada and it doesn't idle high enough to circulate the antifreeze thru the heater core to get heat in the mornings. I am 700 kms away from nearest Mitsu dealer. I know it is a drive by wire setup but there must be some way to increase the idle enough to get the heater working. if not manually with a screw adjustment, can I put a resistance or something in the harness to the pedal??? any help would be appreciated. hoping there is an adjustment stop on the throttle body but I haven't checked into it yet. hoping someone has an easy fix for me first. thanks to anyone who replies.

 

It's all computer controlled. There are no screws to adjust. Everything is checked against everything else so trying to screw with it's position will just confuse the computer and cause problems.

I don't think you will be able to do anything at the gas pedal harness to make it run faster...

What speed is it idling at?

Have you checked the cooling system for blockages and checked your thermostat?

 

It's not just Mitsu. As engines get more efficient (and enviroment-friendly) they burn less fuel while idling. In cold weather the heat, generated while idling, isn't even enough to keep the engine at the working temperature.

However, my 2010 Outlander raises idle RPMs to almost 1,000 once outside temp reaches -20C or so.
Not sure if it is the case for 2007.

 

I would think that it is possible but not would have to be altered on the ECU either with a proper mitusbishi diagnostic machine if it has the facility to do it, or a remap could alter such things. Finding a remap that would do what you want though may prove difficult unless you could have a custom one done??

 

Just found this adjustment on my lunch break. It is a 7mm jamb nut on a 2.5mm allen key bolt that adjusts the stop position of the throttle. Adjusted it until my rpms increased to 1100. Problem solved. I have read quite a bit about this issue of low rpms at idle and the heat issue. not sure if this will cause any other issues but no lights or anything flashing yet. If you don't hear back from me, it is fixed. Seems like it has also fixed the delay in the pedal as well. This pic is of the throttle body facing forward. it is right next to the fire wall. anyway, hope it might help someone else out with the same problem. sorry, can't get the pic to load. there is a plug into the throttle body on the front side of the intake right where the black plastic meets the aluminum intake. this nut and screw is just above the plug and toward the rear. if someone can help me with how to post the pic, I will post it.

 

Update- the increase in RPM screwed up the idle completely. After about 10 km, check engine light came on, and rpms were hunting between 1000 and 1700. I had to put it back to normal position. guess the ECU is seeing something that it doesn't recognize and is trying to correct maybe. Guessing that any increase in RPM will have to be done at the pedal. ill do some checks to see what the resistance is at idle. maybe I could just install a resistor to increase resistance and imitate the pedal being pushed a little. has to be some way to fix this issue.

 

ECU's have a "requested RPM" at set temp's and loop types if you force it above that it will try and drop it down to where it wants to be and if it can't because you physically blocked it it will throw a code and be really confused.

The pedal is probably a double hall effect sensor, I don't think a resistor is going to do anything for you but cause another CEL.

Are you sure your heating circuit is in good working order?

 

Back in the day, in my ford escort in college. I had very little heat in the car during the winter months, it was "ok" but took forever for the car to warm up, especially since i had to jump on the highway right away.
Eventually i had some time and replaced the thermostat which was stuck open, so the car would constantly recirculate coolant at maximum pump speed instead of slowing it down to allow for warm up. It was only a $12 part and some coolant.

 

Yeah I recommended that in the first post... I had a Mazda 3 that had the same problem and they eventually issued a recall...

My 2010 Outie doesn't seem to have any heat issues though.

 

I was browsing the mitsubishi tech site and came across this, there's an actual update to the PCM for poor heater performance, probably an idle adjustment.
https://mitsubi****echinfo.com/epacarb/PCMUpdates.pdf

Just replace the stars with the end of "mitsubishi" and "techinfo". Apparently together, the two spell a bad word which you can see.

TSB−08−55−002REV
PCM Reprogramming
for Poor Heater