08 Outlander XLS with 110k miles- go for it?
#1
08 Outlander XLS with 110k miles- go for it?
So the dealership is offering 13k for it and the KBB lists it at around 10k so I think I can probably negotiate around that - I hope
But anyway I'm basically asking if this is a good model for me - I'm a bigger guy (320lb around 6'1) and single, so I prefer a larger car to a smaller one for the space and so when I test drove it I loved it - and the MPG is solid since mainly I'll be going to work and back
I saw a couple threads saying to be wary of more than 100k miles - is that something I should be concerned about before I go for this? The AutoCheck report is clean - it was checked in at 57k, 65k and then 110 before it entered the dealership so I imagine it's pretty well maintained
So what do you guys think? Should I look for something else or is this pretty ok?
But anyway I'm basically asking if this is a good model for me - I'm a bigger guy (320lb around 6'1) and single, so I prefer a larger car to a smaller one for the space and so when I test drove it I loved it - and the MPG is solid since mainly I'll be going to work and back
I saw a couple threads saying to be wary of more than 100k miles - is that something I should be concerned about before I go for this? The AutoCheck report is clean - it was checked in at 57k, 65k and then 110 before it entered the dealership so I imagine it's pretty well maintained
So what do you guys think? Should I look for something else or is this pretty ok?
#2
IMO you can't go wrong with a mitsubishi (by that I mean Jap made bushis no the collab ones with chrysler that were made in the US). I'm on my third one and never had any issues with them other than maintenance stuff (belts, water pump etc). I have also had to replace a catalytic converter on my 04 lancer when it was about 108k miles and an o2 sensor about 132k miles. I have an 07 outlander with 149k miles and it needs the catalytic converter replaced also. My 03 outlander needed nothing but preventative maintenance and was great till I sold her at about 148k miles.
So with any car the maintenance record from previous owners says alot. I know mitsubishis can go way over 200k miles. So at 110k you should be ok, just make sure the transmission fluid was changed and also the timing belt job was done. If not then you can bargain with the dealer or have them do it for you.
With that said I believe that's a bit much to pay for an 08 but I guess you will be paying the dealer premium. Also I don't know what area you live in so that might also be a factor. The 08 is a good buy because they fixed whatever issues came with the new body style of the 07 and it doesn't have a cvt. My aunt had a cvt lancer that gave her major issues. So I wanted to stay away from any cvt transmission.
The only gripe I have with mitsubishi is their suspension parts never last long and also the design of the valve cover leads to premature leaks (lancers). Other than that they are good in my eyes but again it all depends on maintenance.
Hope that helps
So with any car the maintenance record from previous owners says alot. I know mitsubishis can go way over 200k miles. So at 110k you should be ok, just make sure the transmission fluid was changed and also the timing belt job was done. If not then you can bargain with the dealer or have them do it for you.
With that said I believe that's a bit much to pay for an 08 but I guess you will be paying the dealer premium. Also I don't know what area you live in so that might also be a factor. The 08 is a good buy because they fixed whatever issues came with the new body style of the 07 and it doesn't have a cvt. My aunt had a cvt lancer that gave her major issues. So I wanted to stay away from any cvt transmission.
The only gripe I have with mitsubishi is their suspension parts never last long and also the design of the valve cover leads to premature leaks (lancers). Other than that they are good in my eyes but again it all depends on maintenance.
Hope that helps
#3
like I give others advice:
- get a used oil analysis on the engine oil. blackstone labs has an expedited service for people trying to buying vehicles. it basically tells if you will be grinding out bearings or drinking coolant.
- since you have XLS, it has 3.0L engine, make sure belt has been replaced. Also, your spark plugs are due at 100k miles.
- get a used oil analysis on the engine oil. blackstone labs has an expedited service for people trying to buying vehicles. it basically tells if you will be grinding out bearings or drinking coolant.
- since you have XLS, it has 3.0L engine, make sure belt has been replaced. Also, your spark plugs are due at 100k miles.
#4
Wow thanks guys!
I'm in Indiana and I heard these cars are great in the winter and here it's winter 99% of the year.
I'll definitely have all of the things mentioned above specifically checked when I head back out to the dealership - do you think I could negotiate pricing with knowledge that it was previously in an accident according to the AutoCheck report? Everyone agrees that the price is steep for an 08 with over 100k mileage so I feel like I might be able to wiggle at least a grand off maybe
I'm in Indiana and I heard these cars are great in the winter and here it's winter 99% of the year.
I'll definitely have all of the things mentioned above specifically checked when I head back out to the dealership - do you think I could negotiate pricing with knowledge that it was previously in an accident according to the AutoCheck report? Everyone agrees that the price is steep for an 08 with over 100k mileage so I feel like I might be able to wiggle at least a grand off maybe
#5
So the dealership is offering 13k for it and the KBB lists it at around 10k so I think I can probably negotiate around that - I hope
But anyway I'm basically asking if this is a good model for me - I'm a bigger guy (320lb around 6'1) and single, so I prefer a larger car to a smaller one for the space and so when I test drove it I loved it - and the MPG is solid since mainly I'll be going to work and back
I saw a couple threads saying to be wary of more than 100k miles - is that something I should be concerned about before I go for this? The AutoCheck report is clean - it was checked in at 57k, 65k and then 110 before it entered the dealership so I imagine it's pretty well maintained
So what do you guys think? Should I look for something else or is this pretty ok?
But anyway I'm basically asking if this is a good model for me - I'm a bigger guy (320lb around 6'1) and single, so I prefer a larger car to a smaller one for the space and so when I test drove it I loved it - and the MPG is solid since mainly I'll be going to work and back
I saw a couple threads saying to be wary of more than 100k miles - is that something I should be concerned about before I go for this? The AutoCheck report is clean - it was checked in at 57k, 65k and then 110 before it entered the dealership so I imagine it's pretty well maintained
So what do you guys think? Should I look for something else or is this pretty ok?
I am 6'4 and it's very comfy for me. I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS the best vehicle I have owned. It really takes a beating and keeps on ticking. Make sure to run a Carfax report on it as well as the AutoCheck.com do your Kbb price research and also plug in the same year make and model into autotrader and see the lowest price. Negotiate hard, try to get an extended warranty or guarantee.
#6
I'm now in St Louis, but had the Outtie in KC since we've had it in '09. It has done well up there. We've had a few good snows. Haven't really driven it in 6+ inches yet. That being said, it may say 4WD, but really is AWD. Even in Lock mode, you get one front wheel off the ground / no traction at all...she doesn't move very well...even when hitting the brake a bit. Had to launch myself out of a parallel parked ditch once.
I lived up in Plymouth a while back growing up. I really miss the snowstorms we had off Lake Michigan.
I lived up in Plymouth a while back growing up. I really miss the snowstorms we had off Lake Michigan.
#8
I have no clue if it is working properly. I've only gone through one winter driving it and last winter in KC was horrible...we got a dusting of snow once.
Our "AWC" only shifts power front to back. S-AWC is what the '10+ has available that transfers power side to side. We essentially have an open diff front and back. There is an electronic clutch pack directly infront of the rear diff...that's what gives rear diff power or not.
Our "AWC" only shifts power front to back. S-AWC is what the '10+ has available that transfers power side to side. We essentially have an open diff front and back. There is an electronic clutch pack directly infront of the rear diff...that's what gives rear diff power or not.
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