Hi all,

We have just bought a 2006 Outlander with only 61,000kms on the odometer. We thought that if we found the lowest km's option possible that we would have less problems to worry about. So far we have had the MMCS J01 head unit not turn of when the ignition was turned off completely, this was replaced with a J03 unit which seemed to fix the issue (a simple 'plug n play' installation).

As we drove it we've noticed it was hesitating on take off from standstill, I've found a perished split in the rubber intake hose which I've temporarily used silicone sealant on to seal it up again. I have a new hose coming to replace it but it seems to have fixed the hesitation problem.

Now on to the main problem (and hopefully the last for a while). I'm guessing it's the CVT that's causing it.

When driving it almost on 46kph, just holding the accelerator at that speed it seems to suffer a soft surging feeling, like I'm lifting my foot on and off the accelerator until we gain or lose speed. It also seems to do something similar around 55kph-60kph. It oddly occurs only when the engine has reached full operating temperature so I'm thinking it may be sensor related rather than mechanical??. I have done two drain and fills of the CVT with Penrite fully synthetic CVT-V fluid (matches the CVTF-J1 spec required on the dipstick) and nothing has changed. The reason I think it's the CVT is that I've watched the rev's carefully and I don't notice any fluctuations with them.

I do have a OBD2 ELM327 unit coming soon so will carry out a diagnostic scan and try clearing the CVT fluid deterioration setting using the CTVz50 app to see if this changes anything and if any codes are stored. It does have a 6 month engine and transmission used car sales warranty so may have to resort to that if I can't sort it myself.

Any suggestions for things to check would be great as the warranty is a $350 excess to get started with it. Hopefully someone has had a similar type of experience?

On a cheeky note, does anyone have downloadable software files or a link for a J03 MMCS unit to convert it to english, would be a bonus if it was AUS/NZ settings too?

Thanks, and hope you've all had a good Christmas!!

Mark

 

The CVTz50 app doesn't work on the older Outlanders. It only has settings for 2013 & 2016 models. I was able to run Torque Pro though and discovered a O2 sensor fault code P0130. This was cleared and hasn't come back. I'm guessing this probably came up due to the crack in the intake hose which is still temporarily sealed.

I'll give it a good run to and from work today and see how it drives.

May have to go down the line of checking with Mitsubishi to see if it is running the most up to date firmware for the TCM.

 

Fault #1 is back again. The MMCS unit continues to stay on when everything is turned off. It's back with the dealer to check it out, On Monday the auto electrician will be looking at it, I know it's intermittent so I'm not sure if the auto electrician will find anything straight away as apparently the dealer has messaged me to say its good again, that it's turning off with the ignition. Fingers crossed! The dealer has been really good to us though, we're getting a free 12 month mechanical warranty so it should cover us for a while. No one had this problem before?

 

All faults are back again. Thought I'd put this up so anyone else who might have these issues can quickly sort them out. The P0130 is likely the O2 Sensor which is also contributing to the stuttering when holding light throttle. I'd guess the stereo remaining on issue is due to the ignition switch not switching right. The MMCS unit is good, it doesn't seem the problem is with it. Anyway, its in to Mitsubishi Christchurch now under the Mechanical Warranty so hopefully things will be good in a day or two.

 

O2 Sensor has been replaced by Christchurch Mitsubishi and the car drives brilliantly now. They said they reset the ETACS module and cleaned all the connectors to it to hopefully fix the stereo remaining on problem. Unfortunately it is an intermittent thing and at the time when they were inspecting it, it was working fine and nothing could be faulted. About two days later, the stereo stayed on again when the ignition was completely turned off. I turned it back on and off again and it turned off for me. At this stage I'm thinking of pulling some trim apart and checking out the ignition switch behind the ignition barrel before I take it back in again. I have covered off almost everything else that I can think of so far, the head-unit has been replaced, ETACS rebooted and connectors cleaned, wiring is unlikely to be the fault as it's so low in km's and has all factory items with no additional stuff installed but I will also check over it in case something has been installed in the ACC line previously. Watch this space, anyone with further ideas, please let me know!

 

Hey mate, how's it all running now? Where did you buy your Outie from? Just about to buy an 06 up here in Auck from 2 cheap cars - great mileage at about 80k.

However looking at your thread maybe not. Getting an AA check done on it as we speak so hopefully that will help out, still considering getting a 12 month warranty for it though, although a little hesitant given they seem to have a bit of a liability disclaimer catch-all in it saying not repairs will be performed on "pre-existing conditions" ... which begs the questions what is a pre-existing condition. Seems like yours has worked out well for you though? Who did you go with? Feel free to flick me a txt or call if you like - 021 856 524.

Excited to join the Outlander community, just need to get all ducks in a row first!

 

Hi,

It's all 100% now, after sending it in to Soundworks, Mitsubishi, an auto sparky etc.. no one could figure out what was wrong with the stereo wiring. I ended up running a new wire with an inline fuse from the ACC switch and it all runs smoothly now and haven't had an issue since with it turning off. After all that is done, I know these cars inside and out and would happily buy one again. They're fairly easy to work on/maintain yourself and I would go for a 12 month warranty if you get the chance. I guess pre-existing problems would only be defined as you knowing about them prior to getting insurance, which they couldn't prove anyway.

Hope this helps!
Mark

 

Glad to hear it's all running better now. Maybe you could be the person to ask:

I too have the J-01 MMCS and RF system. Assuming your MMCS was originally in Japanese, what have you done in terms of making it usable for NZ? e.g. Navi, radio, English language etc? I am currently tossing up 2 options:
1. I spoke to a super helpful and nice bloke called Michael from a company called Navi Solutions from whom I can buy a Japanese-English conversion CD. Will do this plus install an aux connector and band expander and will make it usable and still retain the functionality of the reversing camera, but obviously not be able to use Navi (not that I'm fussed, would rather use google maps on my phone over a system from 2006).
2. Looked at replacing the head unit but after a lot of research found the Mito-02 adapter messes with the low range frequencies and the RF system ends up not sounding as good. So considering ripping out the head unit, amp, and sub, and replacing with an aftermarket headunit, amp, and sub. Would power speakers off head unit and have a dedicated sub amp. Could possibly move to powering speakers through a 4 channel amp but would address that down the road. Need to figure out if the speakers are good quality or not and respond well to this though. The other thing I'm not sure about the integration with the factory reversing camera.

Obviously option 2 is more expensive, but would be a fun project for me and would probably end up being more user friendly, and quite possibly have better sound

Another issue I have is the car is only coming with 1 SMART key. Have been quoted around $750 to get another one programmed but SURELY there must be another way. I have read multiple threads on this but am confused as to what the end position is, and what my options are/what I can do. My current thought is to just get another key cut, but the problem with that is I think the transponder is attached to the actual emergency key itself and not the fob. Have included a link to a pic of an example of the key the car is coming with, below (sorry I don't know how to post images to a forum post ). I was thinking I could just install an aftermarket alarm and bypass the factory locking system, and just operate the ignition barrel manually, but after contacting a (rather unhelpful) locksmith, was told this couldn't be done. No explanation as to why/any alternative though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-Mitsub...-/192041181958

What are your thoughts on the above?

Cheers for your comments - AA inspection report came back all good, just need to replace 2 front ball joint dust covers as they're starting to crack, which isn't a major. Agree re: the mechanical warranty. Have it lined up for a full transmission flush as first thing before we buy it.

Apologies for long post - appreciate any comments or knowledge from you and anyone else!