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I have a 09 Outlander 139,329 miles on it. I bought it from a private sale for $5,000 less than a month ago who said everything was good. A week later it won’t start completely dead so we get a new battery. Couple days later it’s dead again and ACS AND ABS SHUT OFF AND Service engine soon also lights up. Test Alternator and yep it’s reading low so I myself replaced it. It runs a couple days then while on the interstate slow down light comes on saying ATF fluid is too hot. Pull over let it cool 20 mins and do 55mph the rest of the way to Mississippi and back. I go to station new morning and it cranks fine, come out of station and it is completely dead. No power whatsoever. I get it home and I pull the tires off check all the sensors and clean them and the throttle body. No change. Finally someone suggested I ground my battery, so I do and it starts. I know this means there is ground wire shorted somewhere, but it also was giving the same code P1773 when it was scanned. The code could also be the transmission solenoid circuit B. I had a mechanic come look at it and he said the lights where old and reset them. A week later the ABS and ACS lights are back on and Service Engine Soon, but the code is the same P1773 as before but now is saying it’s just the ground short.Has anyone experienced this issue before or can anyone give some advice on what I should do.
Last edited by BADASSBEAUTY; Apr 8, 2021 at 08:54 AM.
It’s is a CVT and the car had no power at all unless jumped then when shut off it lost all power again. Grounding the battery now the car starts and restarts , but still throwing P1773 code and can’t find short that is causing the battery to have to be grounded
Last edited by BADASSBEAUTY; Apr 9, 2021 at 02:41 AM.
It's a heavy to identify problem.
Typically, MUT3 must be used to record signals while driving. When car is parked and you suspect an electrical shortcut draining away battery (and/or loosing contact with it) you would hook up a current meter around the ground wire as close as possible to battery negative pole and monitor it. On my 2013 Outlander the "normal" current is 20-100mA 0.5-2min after car been locked (current depends if you have an installed alarm system and/or other additional accessories). When you see a high draining, disconnect one by one fuses (yeah, there are lots of them) to see which module/its_cabling causes that current drain. Once you find it, the task is to check&replace that cable+all_contacts thoroughly and then, if cable is absolutely OK, do the same with electronic module itself.
More complicated procedure would be to identify bad/loose contact/cable which glitches sometimes sporadically, and worse, is temperature- or other conditions dependent. On the other hand, simple to start with would be to: 1) setup and monitor current on negative pole as described above; 2) shake all possible cables (one by one) to see when current drops low. This can be repeated also when ignition is turned ON but no engine is running.
"Faulty or stuck relay" shall not be excluded. Test one-by-one approach shall be use.
Finally, the "faulty ETACS" shall not be excluded either. This would the case when ETACS hardware/software turning on something sometimes it should not... I have no suggestions here, dealer would suggest to replace it for a lot of $$$$. Buy used one and then transfer all codings from the old to new. MUT3 tool is required for that.
Abs/acs lights & service engine soon
