Excellent. But can you think of a way to find out for sure if the Euro hitch fits our V6 model? I was looking on the vehicle fit check on eBay.co.UK and that hitch is listed as compatible with all models except the V6. For the V6 it says it is not compatible.
I am wondering if it is because the V6 is not offered in Europe or because it might not compatible due to those extra "ears" on the side.

 

My wife and I are picking up a "Hidden Hitch" and OEM wiring harness this morning and I have at this time just one question. Does disconnecting the battery affect ETACS options -- specifically, will the TPMS alarm which I have disabled remain that way after power is restored?

 

Yes, ETACS settings are not being dependent on a battery power.

 

Thanks!!

 

Picked up the Hidden Hitch and OEM wiring harness today. I thought I'd start things off with the harness and I have some observations and questions.

Ditto here. No lock washer. I just tightened the bolt and will pray it does not loosen.

I too installed the OEM Mitsubishi mud guards (last year) and am very interested to hear if and how anyone who had mud guards installed prior to OEM harness installation was able to install the cable with the big grommet. I really don't want to have to somehow UN-adhere the mud guard, install the harness/grommet and then, somehow, re-adhere the mud guard. If it came right down to it, I suppose I could use the bobmga62 method of coiling up the last part of the harness in the jack storage compartment, but I'd really like to do the installation according to the Mitsubishi directions, if possible.

Thanks for any advice.

 

As a long time trailer tow-er, I can tell you that my experience is the plug and wiring harness will last longer if it is stored inside the car. I know it is not the complete install that some folks want, but it does work better. I have a 2012 Outlander with the wiring coiled inside and I put it through the hatch when I tow. I also have a '14 Outie with the factory installed plug outside the car - it will be interesting to see which one lasts longer! I am betting on the '12 with the wiring kept warm and dry and salt-free!

 

Thanks for your voice of experience. What you say makes prefect sense.

While looking at the situation on the vehicle, I explained the situation to my wife and she immediately said that it was better to keep the last part of the cable protected in the jack compartment and take it out when needed.

Maybe doing what is easiest, but not the prettiest, is the best way to go, especially for people such as my wife and I who will not be towing very often.

BTW, do you just let the lid crush down on the corrugated cable cover, or have you removed the portion of it that the hatch closes down on, thus exposing the 4 wires an allowing them to flatten out and making closing the lid easier?

I suppose one could purchase a short trailer light extension cord and just throw it away if and when it deteriorates.


Thanks again.

 

I bought an extension cable and that is what I pass through the door. I did that to be safe and protect the original harness attached to the car. I place it about 2 inches to the side of the latch, and then run it through the chain eye to keep it from flapping, then plug it in. The gasket around the hatch is pretty soft and thick, and I have never had a wire wear through or chafe, either in the Outies or my three tow cars before that.

The only vehicle where I left the plug permanently mounted outside was one that towed a camper that required a round 7 pin connector. Even using dielectric grease I had to replace that plug every couple of seasons because of corrosion from all the salt and brine they use on our roads.

 

Thanks!

This morning I have to raise the rear of the vehicle in order to make installing the hitch easier. As others have apparently done, I'll attempt to do it without lowering the muffler off its rubber hangers. The only disadvantage I can see to doing it this way is that one may not be able to get a torque wrench on the bolts above the muffler in order to torque the bolts to specification.

At that time I'll also be carefully examining, as much as I can, up from the bottom of the vehicle into the narrow space (if one actually exists) between the lower plastic panel and the sheet metal wall into which the big rubber grommet is located. If there is enough room between the two to slip in a hand (even my wife's much smaller hand), it may be possible to install the third part of the harness and its grommet without removing the lower plastic panel. If it cannot be done, we'll be doing an "innie" for our Outie.

 

I installed the same type hitch on my Montero and found that I also had to install some air bag shocks from AIR LIFT and the 1000 model worked perfect for me as I was hanging way to low with a load in my trailer. It took about 15 min. for the full install and was a very simple operation from the box to the finished product and with great results.