Hello all I'm looking for some help with a 2008 2.0 di-d Outlander Warrior.
Yesterday morning while driving to work the pulley sheared of my alternator. So I ordered a replacement and got busy fitting it last night. A simple task or so I thought......
The new unit went on relatively easy but then things went wrong.
I'm getting no charging output from the new unit so before I strip it back down and declare it faulty I need to ask 2 questions
1 Does anybody have a diagram showing the route of the auxiliary drive belt? I don't think I've got it wrong but its good to check.
and
2 Do you have to reset anything following a alternator failure as the dash is showing the battery symbol and service required on the info screen?

Thanks in advance for any help

Chris

 

so the first think I think about when I hear "sheared off my alternator", I'm thinking of a 10 pound hunk of metal hanging by some wire cabling. What exactly "sheared off"? If the alternator did somehow come off its mountings, I'd check the other ends of the cables/wires to ensure you don't have a short somewhere or pulled a wire out on the other end.

As far as the belt, at least here in the US, usually there is a diagram under the hood/bonnet or somewhere around the radiator.

 

Hi
Thanks for the reply its not the alternator thats sheared its the drive pulley on the front. Unfortunately the UK spec doesn't have the label indicating the belt route but I have now found this on a Russian mitsi forum and the good news is I'd put it on the right way.
So unless anyone knows about some reset procedure when fitting a new alternator as its CAN bus controlled then it looks like I've bought a faulty unit and will have to get it exchanged

 

Did you test it with a multimeter to see if it's generating voltage when running?

You might need to get a scan tool and check the codes in memory... I would expect them to clear when you fixed the voltage but you can manually clear them if you are sure it's preforming properly. Also there may be some other code in there you don't know about... Either get a scan tool or have it checked at a shop.

Also check you battery voltage with the meter.

 

Hi,
Shortly before the battery went flat the battery voltage was at 11.6v with the output at the alternator the same. As for retrieving fault codes I've got a breakdown company on the way. Unfortunately I'm working 70 miles from home so don't have access to my scanner.
Having now seen wiring details for my charging system there is the main B+ charging feed and 2 more cables on a small plug with terminals called L and FR which run to the ecu. The alternator is also fitted with a freewheel pulley to reduce engine strain when charging isn't required and I don't know if the unit has to be "told" to charge by the CAN Bus or the pulley just spins free as load reduces.

 

Sounds like a bad alternator.

You should be getting somewhere along the lines of 14 volts from it, if it's only making 11 that's your problem.

If the car turned it off you should be getting 0 volts.
You can meter that electric clutch output to see if it's getting power if you want but I'd be willing to bet it's just so unit. I've never heard of anyone having to do anything on the can bus when replacing an alternator.

 

Hi I experienced exactly the same problem. Still isn't completely resolved. Any assistance would be welcome.