The hose was the wrong one, oil ended up shooting all over the front of my car and in my face. But for the life of me, i can't remember which one was the correct hose now....Sorry.

I used 7.5quarts, though i bought 10 quarts for the job. 2 Quarts are still in my garage.

 

I've done it that way several times....runs just fine. I too got about 7.5 qt out.

Remember that the fluid expands when heated. If you drain it hot and replace the same amout with cold, you've overfilled.

 

Hi All,

I'm new to this forum, have one question on Outlander CVT oil.

My car has run 50K Kms in 5 years. As per the car manual, the CVT need to be changed only at 80K Kms. It does not state a time-bound condition.

Question is - should I really worry about the time factor ? And simply run the car until 80K or so ?

thanks much in advance,
-SA

 

I just flushed my transmission in my 2011 V6. Rather than unhooking the cooler line first and try to catch the mess I used the drain first, screwed it back in after getting about 3.5 qts out then unhooked the transmission cooler. It was empty so there was no mess. I used the bottom line since that's all I could reach, the fluid pumps out the hose and not the cooler. I then finished draining the pan, added about 5.5 qts and flushed again. When I did the second flush (the bit where you repeat step 2) I got about 2 qts into it and it became clear that I was pumping out the fluid I had just put in (I used amsoil ss, it's got a purplish hue to it) so I stopped. I bought 10 qts, I've got about 3.5 left.

 

Hey guys, will be doing a transmission fluid change soon on a used 2010 outlander 2.4L that I picked up yesterday. After reading through this thread, I believe this procedure is applicable to the 3.0L V6 engine. I scavenged around the forums and managed to gain access to the service manual for a 2011 outlander and I saw that the procedure for the 2.4L 4 cyl engine is different and it also uses Dia Queen J1 instead of J3. Attached is a picture of the procedure. Has anyone done this on a 2.4L yet? If so, kindly share some of your experience. Thanks!

 

I know nothing about the CVT...but be very careful on the fluid. there is ATF-J1 through ATF-J3 and there is CVT-J1 and up... You cannot simply refer it it as "J1" or "J3".

 

My 2010 manual says Diaqueen CVTF-J1. That's what I ordered from ebay. Spent about $65 for 6 quarts.

 

Just did this service on my 2012 on the weekend. Thought I would post some items that may be helpful to somebody doing the service on theirs.

On the diagram in the initial post, it shows to disconnect the upper cooler line.
#1 - The cooler line is connected to the transmission cooler (which is independent of the radiator) and is located between the drivers side wheel well and the bumper cover. You will need to remove the lower cover (I guess it's a splash guard) to access. You will need a slot head screwdriver, pliers and a 10mm socket to remove this cover.
#2 - I would like to confirm that the contrary to the diagram, the lower line is the correct one to remove.

One thing that I did differently from the original post is, I was a bit leery about running the fluid completely dry so I added new fluid as the old fluid was draining from the cooler line (with the car running). I turned the car off once the new fluid started pumping through. The goal was to never run the tranny completely dry.

For what it matters, I used Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid, approx 6-7 liters.

 

I am not sure how you were able to add the fluid while the fluid was pumping out by the engine. isn't it adding through the tiny dipstick port? Plus you have to run back and turn off the engine pretty quickly?

You were able to add it fast enough to match the draining rate? It doesn't sound like the fluid you are using was cheap enough to be spilling any excess.

 

I guess to answer your questions:

1. Yes. I added through the dipstick
2. No running involved. At no point did the fluid run dry. Thus (theoretically) no worry of damage from running out of fluid.
3. Yes I was able to add as fast (or faster) than the drain rate.
4. No, the fluid was not cheap, but still half the price of the dealer fluid. Regardless, unless you're doing a straight drain and fill, there is going to be some fluid wastage.

In closing, I'm not suggesting that my method is the correct method, but again, I didn't want to run it dry. This method worked for me. The fluid appears clean and the tranny is shifting fine.