Automatic transaxle fluid change procedure
#51
09-03-2017, 04:10 PM
I guess to answer your questions:
1. Yes. I added through the dipstick
2. No running involved. At no point did the fluid run dry. Thus (theoretically) no worry of damage from running out of fluid.
3. Yes I was able to add as fast (or faster) than the drain rate.
4. No, the fluid was not cheap, but still half the price of the dealer fluid. Regardless, unless you're doing a straight drain and fill, there is going to be some fluid wastage.
In closing, I'm not suggesting that my method is the correct method, but again, I didn't want to run it dry. This method worked for me. The fluid appears clean and the tranny is shifting fine.
1. Yes. I added through the dipstick
2. No running involved. At no point did the fluid run dry. Thus (theoretically) no worry of damage from running out of fluid.
3. Yes I was able to add as fast (or faster) than the drain rate.
4. No, the fluid was not cheap, but still half the price of the dealer fluid. Regardless, unless you're doing a straight drain and fill, there is going to be some fluid wastage.
In closing, I'm not suggesting that my method is the correct method, but again, I didn't want to run it dry. This method worked for me. The fluid appears clean and the tranny is shifting fine.
#52
09-04-2017, 12:13 AM
Hi. According to Robbie Baguio attached thumbnail CVT trans guide you will need 2 x 5.5qt (2 x 5.2lt) to do the initial flush and then final refill.
The guide also mentions that you may have to drain and refill if the fluid is still coming through dirty (after a short test drain)!
Jeez, that's a lot of wasted expensive (150 AUD) trans fluid !
The guide also mentions that you may have to drain and refill if the fluid is still coming through dirty (after a short test drain)!
Jeez, that's a lot of wasted expensive (150 AUD) trans fluid !
Last edited by rex_4321; 09-04-2017 at 12:15 AM.
#53
09-04-2017, 07:37 AM
Hi. According to Robbie Baguio attached thumbnail CVT trans guide you will need 2 x 5.5qt (2 x 5.2lt) to do the initial flush and then final refill.
The guide also mentions that you may have to drain and refill if the fluid is still coming through dirty (after a short test drain)!
Jeez, that's a lot of wasted expensive (150 AUD) trans fluid !
The guide also mentions that you may have to drain and refill if the fluid is still coming through dirty (after a short test drain)!
Jeez, that's a lot of wasted expensive (150 AUD) trans fluid !
#54
09-04-2017, 12:11 PM
thanks for your contribution for the longest time the fluid you used was not listed for J3 substitute. Now it seems it is. But what kind of price did you get and from where that made it half the price of disqueen j3? I just took a look and it is $14.5 a quart. I know there are discounts but how much did you get it for ?
From what I understand, Amzoil obtains the specs for the OEM fluids and for their fluid to be "suitable" it needs to meet or exceed the OEM specs. My best guess is, it may have always been compatible, but they may not have had the Diaqueen J3 specs, and thus were not able to deem their fluid as "compatible" at the time.
I also bought Amsoil Severe Gear 75w 110 for the transfer case and diff for $20 per liter.
Last edited by Michael King; 09-04-2017 at 12:19 PM.
#55
09-10-2017, 09:49 AM
Just did this service on my 2012 on the weekend. Thought I would post some items that may be helpful to somebody doing the service on theirs.
On the diagram in the initial post, it shows to disconnect the upper cooler line.
#1 - The cooler line is connected to the transmission cooler (which is independent of the radiator) and is located between the drivers side wheel well and the bumper cover. You will need to remove the lower cover (I guess it's a splash guard) to access. You will need a slot head screwdriver, pliers and a 10mm socket to remove this cover.
#2 - I would like to confirm that the contrary to the diagram, the lower line is the correct one to remove.
One thing that I did differently from the original post is, I was a bit leery about running the fluid completely dry so I added new fluid as the old fluid was draining from the cooler line (with the car running). I turned the car off once the new fluid started pumping through. The goal was to never run the tranny completely dry.
For what it matters, I used Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid, approx 6-7 liters.
On the diagram in the initial post, it shows to disconnect the upper cooler line.
#1 - The cooler line is connected to the transmission cooler (which is independent of the radiator) and is located between the drivers side wheel well and the bumper cover. You will need to remove the lower cover (I guess it's a splash guard) to access. You will need a slot head screwdriver, pliers and a 10mm socket to remove this cover.
#2 - I would like to confirm that the contrary to the diagram, the lower line is the correct one to remove.
One thing that I did differently from the original post is, I was a bit leery about running the fluid completely dry so I added new fluid as the old fluid was draining from the cooler line (with the car running). I turned the car off once the new fluid started pumping through. The goal was to never run the tranny completely dry.
For what it matters, I used Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid, approx 6-7 liters.
For those wondering, Michael describes the way I've always heard you're supposed to do (and how I've always done) transmission flushes, though I've always had to drop the pan and replace the filter, as cars didn't used to have drain plugs in the transmission. You drain a quart, fill a quart, drain a quart, fill a quart, until the fluid comes out clean.
You're basically pumping clean fluid from the pan through the valve body and torque converter and pushing out the dirty fluid. You can even shut the car off if you need to, while filling. There is some mixing and therefore waste, but it can't be avoided.
EDIT - Having recently done the flush now myself, all respect to Michael, but the Upper line is correct to remove, but just be aware the fluid will be coming from the ATF cooler and going back into the transmission in that line. Using this line you flush through the cooler too. I also did the fill as you drain method. I didn't notice any change in color of the fluid when you shift from park to drive, so I don't think you need to do that. Do the whole thing in Park. The trans will pump out a Qt. fairly quickly, say 30 seconds or less, so it helps to the bottles handy with tops off. Also, pump into several small see through containers if possible, that way you can tell if any of the fluid pumped out toward the end is actually clean and can be reused. The first fluid pumped out will be very dark. Lastly, make sure the amount of fluid you poured in equals the amount you pumped out-
Last edited by Careful; 09-24-2017 at 04:02 AM.
#56
11-10-2017, 03:42 PM
Thanks for confirming which line to remove! I'm REALLY Not impressed with the factory service manual for this vehicle! And there's no alternative either!
For those wondering, Michael describes the way I've always heard you're supposed to do (and how I've always done) transmission flushes, though I've always had to drop the pan and replace the filter, as cars didn't used to have drain plugs in the transmission. You drain a quart, fill a quart, drain a quart, fill a quart, until the fluid comes out clean.
You're basically pumping clean fluid from the pan through the valve body and torque converter and pushing out the dirty fluid. You can even shut the car off if you need to, while filling. There is some mixing and therefore waste, but it can't be avoided.
EDIT - Having recently done the flush now myself, all respect to Michael, but the Upper line is correct to remove, but just be aware the fluid will be coming from the ATF cooler and going back into the transmission in that line. Using this line you flush through the cooler too. I also did the fill as you drain method. I didn't notice any change in color of the fluid when you shift from park to drive, so I don't think you need to do that. Do the whole thing in Park. The trans will pump out a Qt. fairly quickly, say 30 seconds or less, so it helps to the bottles handy with tops off. Also, pump into several small see through containers if possible, that way you can tell if any of the fluid pumped out toward the end is actually clean and can be reused. The first fluid pumped out will be very dark. Lastly, make sure the amount of fluid you poured in equals the amount you pumped out-
For those wondering, Michael describes the way I've always heard you're supposed to do (and how I've always done) transmission flushes, though I've always had to drop the pan and replace the filter, as cars didn't used to have drain plugs in the transmission. You drain a quart, fill a quart, drain a quart, fill a quart, until the fluid comes out clean.
You're basically pumping clean fluid from the pan through the valve body and torque converter and pushing out the dirty fluid. You can even shut the car off if you need to, while filling. There is some mixing and therefore waste, but it can't be avoided.
EDIT - Having recently done the flush now myself, all respect to Michael, but the Upper line is correct to remove, but just be aware the fluid will be coming from the ATF cooler and going back into the transmission in that line. Using this line you flush through the cooler too. I also did the fill as you drain method. I didn't notice any change in color of the fluid when you shift from park to drive, so I don't think you need to do that. Do the whole thing in Park. The trans will pump out a Qt. fairly quickly, say 30 seconds or less, so it helps to the bottles handy with tops off. Also, pump into several small see through containers if possible, that way you can tell if any of the fluid pumped out toward the end is actually clean and can be reused. The first fluid pumped out will be very dark. Lastly, make sure the amount of fluid you poured in equals the amount you pumped out-
If you remove the lower hose it would come out of the factory hose end and therefore people think the lower hose is the correct one. As other users have stated removing the upper hose would result in a "mess" because it would come out of the nipple of the trans cooler instead of the hose end. I think the trick is to just push a section of your own hose into cooler to drain the fluid into your drain bottle/pan.
It may be a more complete change with the upper hose removed (as manual says) and the new fluid is pushed through the cooler, displacing what old fluid in the cooler, then out. If you remove the lower hose then the transmission fluid probably will gravity drain out from the cooler as well, but when you connected everything back there is some air in the cooler that needs to be displaced first.
#57
03-14-2018, 09:14 PM
Need to change the transmission fluid
I just picked up a 2006 Mitsubishi Outlander 4dr AWD LS Sportronic Auto, and need to replace the transmission fluid.
Is it the same procedure as listed here?
Is it the same procedure as listed here?
#58
03-15-2018, 08:19 AM
I've had the Amsoil stuff in my car for 7 months (through the coldest months of winter) and so far no issues.
Anyways, on to my question. I was considering, rather than doing a full fluid swap at the prescribed intervals, what about just doing an annual drain and fill. Just pull the plug, drain what i can, and top it off. I know it would only be 1/4 - 1/3 of the fluid at best, but it would be done every 20000-30000kms. Thoughts?
Anyways, on to my question. I was considering, rather than doing a full fluid swap at the prescribed intervals, what about just doing an annual drain and fill. Just pull the plug, drain what i can, and top it off. I know it would only be 1/4 - 1/3 of the fluid at best, but it would be done every 20000-30000kms. Thoughts?
#59
05-23-2019, 04:14 PM
I haven't read every single post in this thread, but I just thought I'd mention that Mobil has recently brought to market an ATF that replaces J2 AND J3 -- Mobil Multi Vehicle ATF. "Mitsubishi: SP-II; SP-III; SP-IV; DiaQueen ATF J3; DiaQueen ATF-PA; DiaQueen ATF J2; PS Fluid, Diamond SP III"
https://www.mobil.com/English-CA/Pas...ti-Vehicle-ATF
For Canadians it can be found at "Blue Water Group"
https://bluewatergroup.ca/contact/branch-locator/
I was given a quote for around $70 for two cases of 6. Our vehicle will be off warrantly in a relatively few months, so at this point I'm not too concerned about voiding the 10-year warranty.
https://www.mobil.com/English-CA/Pas...ti-Vehicle-ATF
For Canadians it can be found at "Blue Water Group"
https://bluewatergroup.ca/contact/branch-locator/
I was given a quote for around $70 for two cases of 6. Our vehicle will be off warrantly in a relatively few months, so at this point I'm not too concerned about voiding the 10-year warranty.