Hello Vadimus,
Are you familiar with the 'Evolander' or the 'Outlander Ralliart'? Supercharged? (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Outlander)
300+hp would be amazing.

 

Well, auto show concept/demo car has not much common to real life

After thinking for a while - why do I need 300+hp? Top speed without serious fines and demerit points is 119 kmh here in Ontario.
Stock setup accelerates Outlander from 0 to 100 kmh for about 9 seconds - quick enough while not shocking and risking the other traffic participants by unexpected acceleration.
I could buy Mazda CX7 but to me 4 cyl sucks even with turbo. Though there was a real beast, turbocharged Ford Taurus SHO, I ended up buying my Outlander, and I would say I'm quite happy with it.

 

A little more info on Jatco (I stand corrected: the original players were Nissan and Mazda-Mitsubishi’s Diamondmatic became absorbed at a later date):
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jatco )
…and the 4B1 series engines:
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_4B1_engine ) it seems that extensive strengthening to the seals, bearings, etc., were addressed when designing the 4B11T.
…and the Twin-Clutch SST:
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twin_Clutch_SST )

What kind of ‘build’, exactly were you considering? If one wished to use this kind of power and acceleration capabilities for, say the ‘¼ mile’ (roll cage, slick tires, short-shifter, high performance. clutch, etc.), a totally different set-up would need to be considered if one wanted to use this power increase for superior ‘street’ capabilities instead (light weight forged aluminum wheels, lower profile tires, intake and exhaust systems for ultimate urban manoeuvrability).
The (guessing VG30DETT…?) is much different from the 4B1 series, as you can well imagine. A more reasonable comparison would be the 6G72 in the 3000GT:
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_6G7_engine )
As for the ECU inquiry, it would be reasonable to expect that some sort of electronic modifications would be necessary, however, none can be made from here at this point.

In conclusion, “the sky’s the limit” when it comes to vehicle modifications. What kind of driving experience, or use, were you intending, expecting, or desiring of the RVR? This should be your starting point.

Hopefully this answered some of your questions.

Colt-Speed Canada Team

 

Why would one “need” 300+hp?
Top speed is almost always electronically limited on new vehicles, so if one wanted to risk going 50km over for the 10K fine and vehicular seizure, then this would be ones’ poor (no?) decision (public safety is a definite concern here as well).
There are many supercharged vehicles on the road these days, as you are no doubt aware. Imagine this scenario: carrying six-plus-you adults (avg. weight 70-80kg p/p) travelling in an increasingly uphill climb to a technical destination, such as a ski-hill) quickly, efficiently, and with the least amount of stress or fatigue experienced by the operator.
Highway driving with passengers and/or cargo is less stressful on a V6 engine and transmission as compared to a 4 cylinder.
The use of premium fuels and clean motor oil or even synthetic can increase engine’s efficiency; in addition higher efficiency engine air intake can help improve performance (volumetric efficiency, fuel economy, plus hp output).

Just curious on which company would be so bold as to develop a supercharger for the then-new 6B31; any ideas or guesses?
Lots of potential, this V6, no?
Cheers,

Colt-Speed Canada team

 

I'm not going to spend $30,000 modifying suspension, wheels, tires, drivetrain, chassis, engine internals etc to get what I wan't, which is simply a vehicle that has monster acceleration. So basically, I am going to increase the horsepower as much as safely possible on the engine internals without throwing money into every other part of the vehicle. If I have to upgrade the transmission to handle the power, I will, but otherwise I am going to install a turbo manifold, large turbo, fuel rail, fuel injectors, fuel pump, ignition, intake, and exhaust. The stock 18" alloy wheels will be fine to keep. The brakes are effective enough without using a set of Brembos. The car has awd, which will make up for a stock tire compound on off-the-line traction. I'm just telling you what I am interested in, without beating around the bush and talking about things I'm never going to buy. plain and simple.

So no track car, just a grocery getter sleeper.

 

2010's 6B31 has 10.5:1 compression ratio while pre-2010's one has 9.5.
Not sure if higher ratio will make turbocharging easier.

 

Sounds interesting! Best of luck with that.
The attempted point was this: “The chain is only as strong as its weakest link”.
We eagerly anticipate hearing more about this project!

 

Compressing a gas causes its temperature to rise. A turbo compresses the air charge greatly and causes its temperature to rise. Adding further compression on top of this can cause pre-detonation in the cylinders without very high octane fuel. Thus, turbo cars generally strive for lower compression ratios, not higher.

 

I bought a 2012 Outlander Sport this past December and have been doing some research on this topic. It seems RRM has developed a turbokit for this car but the boost is pretty mild. It seems the previous poster put it quite aptly, as the 'weakest link' is indeed the CVT Chain itself which shears at significant boost levels. None the less a kit does exist but its not on the web page, you have to call and special order it. When I called they were talking about a 5 thousand dollar kit, which includes all the piping, Turbo from than lancer kit, intercooler, piggyback ECU, underdrive pulley, intake etc.

Projects – Mitsubishi | RoadRace Motorsports

The alternative I want to consider, is to swap in the Engine/transmission from the V6 full sized Outlander. After My Mom saw my new car she loved it so much she wanted one, but they gave her a better deal on a demo model of v6 fullsized Outlander.

After looking inside both vehicles I don't think fitment is too much of a problem but a little creativity will be required for mounting the radiator as that cavity is much smaller on the sport; the rest of the engine bay has ample space for the actual motor. Perhaps just a better quality after market radiator of the same size the 4cyl uses...

Obviously I do not intend to tear my Moms truck apart, I would acquire the engine by other means, but the physical access I have to it has made measurements & research a lot easier.

A third option, would be to upgrade the chain but I have been as yet unable to find anyone making an upgrade kit for the CVT.

Finally to answer your question about the feel of the paddle shifter. The CVT transmission is obviously not two tranny's in one but it can feel that way when you paddle shift. This is a product of the function of the paddle shifter. Under Normal driving conditions the CVT computer will constantly slowly progress the gear ratio up or down as needed; smoothly for a comfortable ride. When you squeeze the paddles, the CVT sacrifices smoothness in favor of faster response time, and jumps to the predetermined position in the progression where the enumerated "gear" ratio is designated.