Break-in and first oil change
#12
RE: Break-in and first oil change
ORIGINAL: Sebba
Even earlier. Start the car for the first time with normal non synthetic oil. Change it after the first 20 miles of driving it. Then change it again at 100. Then switch to synthetic at 2000 miles.
Read this https://mitsubishiforum.com/m_95354/tm.htm
Even earlier. Start the car for the first time with normal non synthetic oil. Change it after the first 20 miles of driving it. Then change it again at 100. Then switch to synthetic at 2000 miles.
Read this https://mitsubishiforum.com/m_95354/tm.htm
change the oil every 3750 miles if driven under the "severe" schedual (which all of us are).. there is nothing more to know.
#13
RE: Break-in and first oil change
I got my outi with 200 miles on it , test drives I suppose, so that would mean I never got to break in my engine properly? lol I'll just stick to the 1000mile change then switch to synthetic at 3000miles, thats what I hear from a lot of peeps that have never had any trouble with their 100k+ engines.
#15
RE: Break-in and first oil change
ORIGINAL: rcpax
In Regular Maintenace Schedule, the first Oil change is at 7500mi or 6 mos. So I'd probably stick with that.
In Regular Maintenace Schedule, the first Oil change is at 7500mi or 6 mos. So I'd probably stick with that.
#16
RE: Break-in and first oil change
buscuit i highly dissagree.
The guy is not just some random f-ing motorcycle guy. His "theory" is no longer a theory. It is logical, and it is proven. You can see that in the results of all the engines he has race prepared. I cant speak for the manufacturer because i dont know who wrote what... but when it comes to this dude i would much rather have my engine in his hands, with his break in method rather than ANY manufacturers break in instructions.
As a matter of fact most of the high performance motors (rotax specifically) have actually changed their break in instructions to EXACTLY what Moto-Man says to do. A fair amount of other bike manufacturers are following and re-writing their break in manuals.
Manybews: Come on man you are a smartdude. How can you not see this. When you first turn the key there is an incredible amount of friction and its needed for a reason, to seat the rings. Without it, you dont have a good ring seal and you end up losing power and oil gets past the rings. It makes perfect sence. Not to mention, in the first few mins that the engine runs, the friction shaves off the little metal fragments from the cylinder wall and the rings and that ends up back in the oil.. and that goes round and round your engine. That is extremely bad if you ask me. Especially a turbo car because these tiny fragments can have a big impact on your turbo life. A good portion of the turbo DSM members know how easy it is for turbos to **** up with minor things in the oil.
You cant deny fact. I would trust a person that race prepares engines... (and wins!) over any "easy break in" instuction manual.
I have rebuilt and broken in many small displacement 4 stroke motors before and have always used and never questioned this method. Even the manufacturer recomends moto-mans theory. How can you argue with that?
EMonz where are you when i need you!!!
The guy is not just some random f-ing motorcycle guy. His "theory" is no longer a theory. It is logical, and it is proven. You can see that in the results of all the engines he has race prepared. I cant speak for the manufacturer because i dont know who wrote what... but when it comes to this dude i would much rather have my engine in his hands, with his break in method rather than ANY manufacturers break in instructions.
As a matter of fact most of the high performance motors (rotax specifically) have actually changed their break in instructions to EXACTLY what Moto-Man says to do. A fair amount of other bike manufacturers are following and re-writing their break in manuals.
Manybews: Come on man you are a smartdude. How can you not see this. When you first turn the key there is an incredible amount of friction and its needed for a reason, to seat the rings. Without it, you dont have a good ring seal and you end up losing power and oil gets past the rings. It makes perfect sence. Not to mention, in the first few mins that the engine runs, the friction shaves off the little metal fragments from the cylinder wall and the rings and that ends up back in the oil.. and that goes round and round your engine. That is extremely bad if you ask me. Especially a turbo car because these tiny fragments can have a big impact on your turbo life. A good portion of the turbo DSM members know how easy it is for turbos to **** up with minor things in the oil.
You cant deny fact. I would trust a person that race prepares engines... (and wins!) over any "easy break in" instuction manual.
I have rebuilt and broken in many small displacement 4 stroke motors before and have always used and never questioned this method. Even the manufacturer recomends moto-mans theory. How can you argue with that?
EMonz where are you when i need you!!!
#18
RE: Break-in and first oil change
ORIGINAL: Sebba
Manybews: Come on man you are a smartdude. How can you not see this. When you first turn the key there is an incredible amount of friction and its needed for a reason, to seat the rings. Without it, you dont have a good ring seal and you end up losing power and oil gets past the rings. It makes perfect sence. Not to mention, in the first few mins that the engine runs, the friction shaves off the little metal fragments from the cylinder wall and the rings and that ends up back in the oil.. and that goes round and round your engine. That is extremely bad if you ask me. Especially a turbo car because these tiny fragments can have a big impact on your turbo life. A good portion of the turbo DSM members know how easy it is for turbos to **** up with minor things in the oil.
You cant deny fact. I would trust a person that race prepares engines... (and wins!) over any "easy break in" instuction manual.
I have rebuilt and broken in many small displacement 4 stroke motors before and have always used and never questioned this method. Even the manufacturer recomends moto-mans theory. How can you argue with that?
EMonz where are you when i need you!!!
Manybews: Come on man you are a smartdude. How can you not see this. When you first turn the key there is an incredible amount of friction and its needed for a reason, to seat the rings. Without it, you dont have a good ring seal and you end up losing power and oil gets past the rings. It makes perfect sence. Not to mention, in the first few mins that the engine runs, the friction shaves off the little metal fragments from the cylinder wall and the rings and that ends up back in the oil.. and that goes round and round your engine. That is extremely bad if you ask me. Especially a turbo car because these tiny fragments can have a big impact on your turbo life. A good portion of the turbo DSM members know how easy it is for turbos to **** up with minor things in the oil.
You cant deny fact. I would trust a person that race prepares engines... (and wins!) over any "easy break in" instuction manual.
I have rebuilt and broken in many small displacement 4 stroke motors before and have always used and never questioned this method. Even the manufacturer recomends moto-mans theory. How can you argue with that?
EMonz where are you when i need you!!!
there is no reason at all to "change oil" after 20 miles. its an utter waste.
there is no more wear on the car when first started after assembly than when first started at 100,000 miles. The engines are machined/assembled perfectly. They arent assembled "dry". They are saturated with the same lubrication they are filled with.
Trust me, you do nothing of benefit to change the oil at 20 miles. Ive built hundreds of motors, and driven 10s of thousands of cars (race cars, normal cars, motorcycles, classics, etc). My own diamante has 203000 miles on the completely original engine and trans. Nothing has ever had to be done to it other than maintenence. It leaks nothing/burns nothing. It has had its oil changed every 4000 +/- miles since new.
That is all people need to do.
#19
RE: Break-in and first oil change
This is how i see it. Thecylinder walls are made rough for a reason in brand new motors, to shape the rings. And that, is what produces the metal fragments. Yes there is an incredible amount of metal particles after the first start up because the cylinder walls are being shaped and the rings are being shaped too.
Is there something that i am not understanding?
Is there something that i am not understanding?
#20
RE: Break-in and first oil change
Sebba,
I have 700 km on the odo. Just asked couple of mitsu dealers for an oil change. First service advisor said that there is a special factory fill with additives and she does not recommend before 5k km. Second dealer's service advisor understood what I was talking about but still insisted that 700km is way too early. However, this guy said that there is no special oil in there (ala Honda which specifically mentions that). Whatever, I will wait for couple thousand km and do it.
I have 700 km on the odo. Just asked couple of mitsu dealers for an oil change. First service advisor said that there is a special factory fill with additives and she does not recommend before 5k km. Second dealer's service advisor understood what I was talking about but still insisted that 700km is way too early. However, this guy said that there is no special oil in there (ala Honda which specifically mentions that). Whatever, I will wait for couple thousand km and do it.