Hey all,

About to replace pads for the outlander (all corners). Thoughts on going ceramic? My gut is to stay with semi-metallic. I really want to stick with the OEM pads but they cost a fortune, but lasted me 110,000KM

Also, does anyone see any reason to stick with the OEM mitsubishi rotors? I ahve heard alot of talk about rotors from NAPA are chinese crap.

This is my daily driver, and just want good brakes. Suggestions are much appreciated. I live in NS Canada so shipping from the states is out due to cost.

Thanks again!!

 

You got 110,000 KM out of the OEM pads and you're asking if there's any good reason to stick with the OEM pads. You answered your own question, IMO.

I just replaced our pads that had 88,000 km on them and they had about 1/4 of their life remaining, so ours would have probably lasted as long as yours. But I wanted to change them myself and I wanted to do that in nice, warm weather, so I figured "why wait?"

Our OEM rotors were in excellent condition, with that slight rim of rust you mentioned that yours have.

I ordered TWO sets of OEM pads from here:
Mitsubishi Car Parts | Genuine OEM Mitsubishi Car Parts & Accessories | Lancer, Evolution, Galant, Eclipse, Outlander, Endeavor, i-MiEV, Outlander Sport
They're less than half the price of our local Mit dealer's pads, but you have to pay shipping. Even then, though, they're still much less than local.

The brake pad change is another great Mitsubishi bone-simple job, and if you use the OEM pads, you won't be doing it again for probably another 100,000 km.

Edit.
I should have mentioned that immediately after chaning pads almost two weeks ago, the brake performance was as good as, if not better, than that of the OEM pads (which, again, still had about 1/4 of their life remaining.) No pulsing, no pulling, no negatives whatsoever. Just great braking. That has remained the case to this day.

 

I was under the impression that these came OEM with ceramic pads. The Wagner pads I put on were ceramic, work well, and inexpensive. My OEM pads lasted 120,000 km and I kept the OEM rotors as there were no reason to replace them. I'm now 88,000 km into my current pads and they still work great.

 

Hmm...

The dealership says they have the original OEM pads and then another set of mitsu pads that aren't as expensive and seem to be more in line with the prices on that webpage. The OEM ones at the dealership are $132 for the fronts and over $100 for the rear. Hence my hesitation.

I'm going to try and see if I can remove that rust lip on the edge. The rotors are not warped at all - but I need to get this lip off if I am going to change pads. On that note, I have read a lot of comments on not using old rotors with new pads - thoughts on this? Should I just rough up the rotors with sandpaper or something?

I called two dealerships and they both said the OEM pads were semi-metallic. I have a lot of brake dust so this seems to hold true to that statement.

 

Do you have the v6? How do you find the braking using wagner pads (I was thinking intially of putting some thermoquiets on), but then heard that ceramic don't brake as well as semi metallic, but that's not from experience - just what I hear.

 

yep, have the 3.0.

Initially the braking was too much, but once the pads seated in properly, they performed as well as OEMs. I can still mash the brakes and everything flies forward and I still feel my cheeks wanting to go forward as well. I know I'll definitely be putting another set of Wagners on. I'm sure by that point I'll have to get new rotors at least for the front.

I have noticed the last few times I've driven it that there is some shimmy in the steering wheel and pedal when braking. I think I'm due for brake bleeding this summer, so I'll have a look then.

 

So this might be a dumb question, but a brake job is a brake job right? There really isnt anything special about a mitsubishi outlander front and rear brake job that a small town mechanic who probably has never seen an outlander couldn't do? He certainly wouldn't know the torque specs specific to mitsu, but maybe they are all similar for any brake job. Are there any special tricks that are needed for an outlander brake job?

I have to battle against my head saying "just take it to the dealer for all this as well as the brake fluid flush so it will get done right".

 

If you're going new everything, you might consider the following, free shipping and all, right to your door:
Front Rear Kit OE Replacement Brake Rotors Ceramic Pads 5 Lug V6 K90541 | eBay

Purely as an experiment, I bought a pair of Chinese rotors for a '92 Honda Accord that my wife bought new in 1991 and we sold just a few weeks ago. I installed the rotors about 7 years ago after the OEM rotors began the typical pulsing of a rotor that needed either machining or replacement. (How dare Honda install rotors that lasted only 15 years?)

Anyway, I paid less than $40 each for the rotors at Partsource and they were still performing great when we sold the car. In fact, the new owner was impressed enough with the car's braking when he test-drove the car that he commented on it.

In short, I will not hesitate to put Chinese rotors on our Outlander when (not if) the day comes when it needs them. Hopefully the OEM rotors on our vehicle will last as long as our Honda's did.

 

Yeah, maybe I'll just get the rust lip shaved off somehow...no one around turns rotors here. But I have to get that off or put new rotors on.

 

I have used axxis metal master pads on a mitsubishi before and later changed to kevlar pads that cost 2x+ as much, I noticed no difference..

check it out, they only list the ceramic ones for the outlander (it looks like mid grade), but its under $40.

Mitsubishi Outlander Axxis Brake Pads | Axxis Performance Brakes


You might want to change the brake pads yourself, but at your mileage you might want to grease the sliding bolt a little, use permatex brake lube (blue stuff) and don't get it on the brake parts. And you need a brake pad compress tool, it's around $10. I believe the torque on those bolts are around 14-18 ft lbs, but if you find an outlander service manual you can get the exact number.

For the rust, just run some sand paper on them becareful not to remove too much material on the actual contact part.