Brakes on the Outlander is no different than the front brakes on my Ranger...nothing special. you won't need torque specs if you use something like locktite and make sure the bolts are tight. There are two types of locktite, red & blue...the weaker one will work just fine.

I wouldn't even worry about the lip too much. The pad will wear to the lip where it overhangs...then after that the pad and rotor will be married to each other.

 

I guess, but the noise is starting to be unbearable. If the lip is causing the noise (which everyone says it is), wouldn't putting new pads on just cause the noise to continue?? If I do decide to keep the rotors, any suggestions on bedding in new pads on old rotors? BTW, the rotors are perfect except for that lip. Should I rough the surface of the rotors up first or anything?

The place I live I still have yet to find a mechanic. It is a really small town and the guy I was talking to said he could the brakes no problem but he is also the one who wanted to take a hammer to my rotors! lol

 

An honest mechanic will use a hammer to dislodge the rust then a file to smooth the edge.
A dishonest one will sell you new rotors for good profit.

I have been cleaning rotors that way for 40 years and never had a problem as there is a difference between taping with a hammer and whacking with a hammer.

Remember rust has no structure it is mainly porous.

Trust him ...

 

I don't see how a lip could be causing a noise unless the pad base is overhanging and grinding on the lip. In which case, it is time to change pads anyway. If the new pads are larger, then the pad surface over the lip will prematurely wear away until the pad terrain matches the rotor terrain. That shouldn't be a problem since the old pad surface was the contact area of the old pad...you still have that same surface area. IMO, it is a wash. It should take little time for the two surfaces to mate; the lip should be scaley and you are exerting a lot of force on a small area...the pad material should give easily.

I've always heard you should take sandpaper to the rotors to rough them up enough to get the old material off. I just slapped mine on and let it wear in...it worked. Like I said before, it was a bit touchy at first, but after about a week or two...it settled out.

 

hmmm....well he was giving it some pretty good blows right where the lip is (so a 45 degree angle to the face)...I can't imagine that is good for the rotor.....but maybe if I tell him to go a little lighter

AS for the rotors, there is now way they are at minimum thickness after just 110,000km right? If that is the case, I will just get him to do it and hope all works out.

 

Yeah, the pads are really low (but the back moreso than the fronts)..weird.
I'll put my trust into this independant guy and see what happens!

Going to buy some thermoquiets right now....

cheers all

 

You are after the noise created by the rusted outer diameter touching the edge of the pad, so removing the bulk of the rust will do that nicely.
Rotor min thickness are only a concern if the wear surface is not flat i.e. if it is gouged or worn un evenly,that's when you need to machine (resurface) the disk and this is when the minimum thickness is important to check. Disk seldom wear smoothly beyond min thickness.
They are machined over the limit.

 

If the noise is becoming unbearable -- getting worse rapidly -- you'd better get your thumb out and get those pads replaced before the metal backing of the pad damages that perfect wearing surface on your rotors, if they haven't been damaged already.

 

Yeah, I'm going to get this done next week.

Just picked up the Wagner thermoquiets for the outlander. The fronts are ceramic...the rears are organic??

Someone said they put wagner thermoquiets on their outlander - were they both ceramic or were the rears organic. I didn't have a choice - these were the only pads that were for the outlander (# PD868)

He is charging 2 hours labor for getting rid of that lip, installing the new pads, making sure the calipers are ok, and flushing the brake fluid. Sounds fair to me I guess...He did say he isn't taking the rotors off to get rid of the lip.

Does anyone know if the thermoquiets are supposed to come with any clips or anything? All that was in the box were pads.
THanks

 

I can't remember if there were clips with them or not. If they did, I don't think I put them in...just used the clips that came with the car.

I thought all front and back were both ceramics...but checked on rockauto, only listing for rears were organics.

i'm sure he has a lift, if so, he won't need to take them off for the lip thing. 2hrs is good.