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I've read lots of contradicting information about the DRL settings in etacs and what they do. I finally had the opportunity to test it out and have figured it out. I thought I'd share in case anyone else is interested.
This applies to my Canadian 2011 Lancer Ralliart and may or may not apply to all vehicles.
Obviously DRL not present means DRL is switched off...
The 3 settings that end "with p" DO NOT light up until you release park brake, the 3 that end with "present" light up at all times as long as engine is running.
Normal DRL is low beam at full brightness (this can work with hid and led headlights but they will always be on). Basically with this setting the low beam is always on full brightness and the headlight on indicator is always on in the dash, you can not shut off the low beam.
Dimming DRL is low beam dim (I believe cars that come with this from the factory like mine need a special low beam relay that has fins on it and is larger than regular relays, this setting causes flickering hid and led headlights when DRL is active)
Independent DRL, this one is more complicated and my second theory was right. There are 2 connectors at the headlight, on my non hid headlights the smaller (6 pin connector but with only 5 wires) is plugged into nothing. With this setting activated the first pin of both left and right connectors (on my car left side wire is yellow and right side wire is blue) is powered during DRL operation, the 4th pin is always grounded(black wire).
So if you want fog lights or park lights or auxiliary led's or whatever as your drl's you then have to wire this to those lights. It's pretty cool that mitsubishi left all this wiring there, if you want to convert to oem hid lights all you gotta do is activate this setting and make sure both connectors are plugged in and it'll be like all the cars that came with hid from the factory.
Hopefully someone finds this helpful.
If anything isn't clear just ask.
-Alex
Excellent post, Alex. I've had DRLs set to independent and been running those for about 2-3 years now (got some LED ring-shaped DRL + fog replacement set from ebay, for a 2011 outlander sport). Removed the original fog light covers and the units altogether, plugged in the new one to the existing fog wiring, then just snapped the ebay ones in.
I couldn't find the wiring so tapped straight into the relay - poked the red/black wires from the DRL into the relay's power + and - areas, then plugged the relay in on top of the wire - but it's clunky - the relay doesn't go flush because of the thin wires under it, and the wire hangs out of the fusebox from underneath the lids as I close the lid over it.
Could you please post a picture of the connectors that you mentioned, the ones that were not plugged into anything? I looked at the service manual and it showed that the connectors for the DRLs as coming out down below close to the fogs (I checked in "component locations" section of the service manual, and confirmed the connector number in the DRL circuit diagram), but when I checked behind the fog lamps there was only one connector for the actual fog lamp and no empty DRL connector. I don't see anything near the headlamps either - but maybe I'm not looking at the right place. It'd be great to tap into factory wiring if it exists and have the fuse/relay box clean again without the hanging wires ;-)
Excellent post, Alex. I've had DRLs set to independent and been running those for about 2-3 years now (got some LED ring-shaped DRL + fog replacement set from ebay, for a 2011 outlander sport). Removed the original fog light covers and the units altogether, plugged in the new one to the existing fog wiring, then just snapped the ebay ones in.... Could you please post a picture of the connectors that you mentioned, the ones that were not plugged into anything? I looked at the service manual and it showed that the connectors for the DRLs as coming out down below close to the fogs (I checked in "component locations" section of the service manual, and confirmed the connector number in the DRL circuit diagram), but when I checked behind the fog lamps there was only one connector for the actual fog lamp and no empty DRL connector. I don't see anything near the headlamps either - but maybe I'm not looking at the right place. It'd be great to tap into factory wiring if it exists and have the fuse/relay box clean again without the hanging wires ;-)
Since you have an Outlander Sport you may be better served with the images of that and not the Lancer. Here they are:
The connectors in question are the grey ones. On the right side I removed it from their rail. If you had an HID headlight this connector would power the ballast. That is why only two wires go in (left: black and yellow; right:black and blue). The black is the ground and the colored ones carry positive voltage. The ETACS programming of the DRLs are different for the Outlander Sport. Only the HID equipped models supposed to have a separate harness next to the fog lights for DRLs. Canadian HID equipped models have fog lights that have two bulbs and two feeds go to them. I believe US models with HIDs have no DRL programmed and only simple fog lights found in them. To use the fancy dual fog light as DRL (most likely that is what you have read in the manual) as well the ETACS must be programmed to "independent DRL". "Normal DRL" programming (for halogen headlight equipped models) uses the low beams with ~100 Hz modulation resulting in a lower intensity output with an average ~9 V measurable voltage. When turning on the headlights the intensity bumps up corresponding to 12 V. The halogen equipped 2nd gen Outlander uses the same logic and equipment for DRL operation. HID equipped 2nd gen Outlanders operate the high beam with lower intensity (if I am correct).
So, if you have HIDs from the factory the pictured connectors are used for powering the ballast. If you have halogen headlights and you program your ETACS to normal DRL, whenever the engine is running and the parking brake is released you will have ~ 9V or 12 V between the blue and black and between the yellow and black wires, during the day or at night, respectively. This can be used for various purposes.
As you can see if one has halogen head lights these grey connectors do not connect anywhere. More precisely the light grey parts connect to the dark grey ones that are blind connectors (see below).
I do have halogen head lights, removed completely these connectors and hardwired an exact same harness as the fog lights to the fog light house (see image below). Currently the fog light harness is taped with electrical tape and with the new harness the fog lights are used as additional DRLs with reduced intensity and once the headlights are turned on they stay on with full intensity without the necessity to turn the fog light switch. This connection could also be used for the application you mentioned (angel eye fog light or fog light bezel surround, or any other DRLs) preserving the fog lights.
I hope now everything is clear and you know whether you could or could not use this circuit.
Here is the image for the HID headlight (from the bottom). The small metallic box is the ballast and it is powered by the two wire connector mentioned above. This connector is powered but lead to nothing in the halogen headlight equipped models if the ETACS is programmed to normal DRL..
Also pictured the combination fog light for HID equipped DRL operation. The smaller bulb (80885) is for the independent DRL and the larger (80884) for the regular fog light.
I could not find an OEM picture (this is some aftermarket version above).
Thank you so much for the super detailed reply and the excellent quality zoomed pics. This is great info to have. My 2011 USA model outlander sport came with no DRL programming and with fogs that only have one function (H11 55W halogen fogs). My car and has no wiring near the fogs, nor does it have unattached connectors. I checked the service manual and it showed two sets of wires near the fogs and I was initially hoping that they left those in all the cars (even without DRLs).
I programmed the etacs to have "independent DRL", then got a pair similar to these https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Mitsubi...-/311611444454 and installed them (they were a lot cheaper when I got them).. Added a relay and fuse in the right spots, and plugged the positive to under the relay and the thing has been working well for the past couple years.
Last edited by ProcessorHog; 03-23-2019 at 01:45 AM.
A question to those who are very familiar with ETACS Decoder software - is there an option in it to only power the high beams when you use the high beam flashers? I noticed that my low beam HIDs come on as well when I just use the flashers (flash to let people in front, letting them turn out of driveways in bad traffic etc). I'm trying to see if I can NOT have the low beams come on when I use the high beam flasher.
I learned recently that HID life is affected by on/off cycles and am trying to avoid killing them prematurely. Just had to replace a pair and it cost a pretty penny (my factory lights were Osram Xenarc 66240 original/classics, D2S type). I got the new Osram Nightbreaker Xenarc Laser bulbs and they seem even better than the already excellent factory HID bulbs, but they cost around 140 for a pair. I used to have my lights in "Auto" and that would turn my low beams on/off when I go through small underpasses and tunnels, and now with DRLs on my car, I leave them off during the day.
A question to those who are very familiar with ETACS Decoder software - is there an option in it to only power the high beams when you use the high beam flashers? I noticed that my low beam HIDs come on as well when I just use the flashers (flash to let people in front, letting them turn out of driveways in bad traffic etc). I'm trying to see if I can NOT have the low beams come on when I use the high beam flasher.
I learned recently that HID life is affected by on/off cycles and am trying to avoid killing them prematurely. Just had to replace a pair and it cost a pretty penny (my factory lights were Osram Xenarc 66240 original/classics, D2S type). I got the new Osram Nightbreaker Xenarc Laser bulbs and they seem even better than the already excellent factory HID bulbs, but they cost around 140 for a pair. I used to have my lights in "Auto" and that would turn my low beams on/off when I go through small underpasses and tunnels, and now with DRLs on my car, I leave them off during the day.
I find your setting really odd. My high beam flashers are not connected/linked to the low beams and any car I owned so far had the exact same feature: when you flash the high beams during the day the low beams are not supposed to come on. My low beams are halogen though.
Good news everyone. Now you can read/write ETACS/engine coding for free with MMCodingWriter software. It can be downloaded here.
Works fine with all J2534 adapters and ELM327 1.5
How it works?
1. Download coding from vehicle.
2. Change what you want with MUT Coding Mitsubishi application.
3. Upload it back.
Hi, i have a Outlander Phev 2020, and changed etacs to have the speedlock function. The speedlock worked fine (now it doesnt anymore, dont know why). But when the doors automaticly closed nobody can open the door from the inside except the driver. Thats anoying. The only way out is put the ignition off. I want that anybody can open the doors from the inside out or at least automatic unlock when selector is on P position...... somebody said to me change in etacs and then make a cuf file.... how do i get a cuf file?
Hello, I wanted to activate remote window closing on my 07' Outlander GT. But I've tried every type of poewer windows in ETACS (P1-P4, P3 MMAL etc.) and it does not work I've managed to activate remote closing sunroof by setting it to S1 but no matter how i set power windows they dont want to close from my key. I've tried two short clicks, one click and a long press (it works with sunroof) and nothing. Did anyone manage to get it working?
03-01-2019, 03:45 PM
I've managed to activate remote closing sunroof by setting it to S1 but no matter how i set power windows they dont want to close from my key. I've tried two short clicks, one click and a long press (it works with sunroof) and nothing. Did anyone manage to get it working?