ETACS options customization
#1423
08-22-2021, 01:45 PM
https://mega.nz/file/04gVwIzA#6bmRjK...VUFynueWTjCgCk
After installing choose Your interface device, it perfect works wit FTDI M-VCI
ED is long time history for me
Last edited by WiValdiBB; 08-22-2021 at 01:54 PM.
#1425
08-24-2021, 04:51 AM
I have few different interface cables and all works with Xhorse driver, all works fine, Tactrix OpenPort clone works fine too
Pozdrawiam z Bielsko-Białej
Last edited by WiValdiBB; 08-26-2021 at 04:36 AM.
#1426
12-28-2021, 08:48 AM
Help. Etacs Outlander 2.4 2wd
Hi to all! My car is Outlander XL 2009 2WD, 2.4 CVT. I have a problem with ETACS. I want to disable TPMS, so my friend who have Lexia tried to help. He loaded C-crosser Europe configuration to my Outie. So TPMS was disabled. But many warnings burned: SRS, 4wd, abs, Asc off. 4wd and srs was repaired. but abs and asc off are stil enabled. So i found man, who has MMC Coding writer. He loaded configuration from 2.4 cvt 4wd outlander to my vehicle. Of course, those warnings were burn, and now we dont know what do with them. I have saved KON file from 2.4 4wd. Maybe somebody have KON file to MMC coding writer of 2.4 2wd cvt outlander, or edit my saved file. Sorry for my bad English. Hope you help.
#1427
07-04-2022, 06:53 AM
Etacs
I've read lots of contradicting information about the DRL settings in etacs and what they do. I finally had the opportunity to test it out and have figured it out. I thought I'd share in case anyone else is interested.
This applies to my Canadian 2011 Lancer Ralliart and may or may not apply to all vehicles.
Obviously DRL not present means DRL is switched off...
The 3 settings that end "with p" DO NOT light up until you release park brake, the 3 that end with "present" light up at all times as long as engine is running.
Normal DRL is low beam at full brightness (this can work with hid and led headlights but they will always be on). Basically with this setting the low beam is always on full brightness and the headlight on indicator is always on in the dash, you can not shut off the low beam.
Dimming DRL is low beam dim (I believe cars that come with this from the factory like mine need a special low beam relay that has fins on it and is larger than regular relays, this setting causes flickering hid and led headlights when DRL is active)
Independent DRL, this one is more complicated and my second theory was right. There are 2 connectors at the headlight, on my non hid headlights the smaller (6 pin connector but with only 5 wires) is plugged into nothing. With this setting activated the first pin of both left and right connectors (on my car left side wire is yellow and right side wire is blue) is powered during DRL operation, the 4th pin is always grounded(black wire).
So if you want fog lights or park lights or auxiliary led's or whatever as your drl's you then have to wire this to those lights. It's pretty cool that mitsubishi left all this wiring there, if you want to convert to oem hid lights all you gotta do is activate this setting and make sure both connectors are plugged in and it'll be like all the cars that came with hid from the factory.
Hopefully someone finds this helpful.
If anything isn't clear just ask.
-Alex
This applies to my Canadian 2011 Lancer Ralliart and may or may not apply to all vehicles.
Obviously DRL not present means DRL is switched off...
The 3 settings that end "with p" DO NOT light up until you release park brake, the 3 that end with "present" light up at all times as long as engine is running.
Normal DRL is low beam at full brightness (this can work with hid and led headlights but they will always be on). Basically with this setting the low beam is always on full brightness and the headlight on indicator is always on in the dash, you can not shut off the low beam.
Dimming DRL is low beam dim (I believe cars that come with this from the factory like mine need a special low beam relay that has fins on it and is larger than regular relays, this setting causes flickering hid and led headlights when DRL is active)
Independent DRL, this one is more complicated and my second theory was right. There are 2 connectors at the headlight, on my non hid headlights the smaller (6 pin connector but with only 5 wires) is plugged into nothing. With this setting activated the first pin of both left and right connectors (on my car left side wire is yellow and right side wire is blue) is powered during DRL operation, the 4th pin is always grounded(black wire).
So if you want fog lights or park lights or auxiliary led's or whatever as your drl's you then have to wire this to those lights. It's pretty cool that mitsubishi left all this wiring there, if you want to convert to oem hid lights all you gotta do is activate this setting and make sure both connectors are plugged in and it'll be like all the cars that came with hid from the factory.
Hopefully someone finds this helpful.
If anything isn't clear just ask.
-Alex
My ASX didn't have DRL from factory. I changed the ETACS setup to DIMMING DRL and it worked but i am afraid it can damage something without the right relay.
#1428
07-09-2022, 01:19 AM
Outlander 2011 2.2Di-d 156hp TC-SST LEXIA 3?
Hi guys,
i have been reading your forum for some time now.
I bought a lexia 3 adapter (full chip it sais) and i would like to teach-in (adaptation) to my clutches.
Just wanted to ask if this is possible with this cheap interface .
Meanwhile i ll keep looking on this forum, maybe i ll find the perfect information for me.
Thanks guys for creating this huge database of information. You are my heroes
i have been reading your forum for some time now.
I bought a lexia 3 adapter (full chip it sais) and i would like to teach-in (adaptation) to my clutches.
Just wanted to ask if this is possible with this cheap interface .
Meanwhile i ll keep looking on this forum, maybe i ll find the perfect information for me.
Thanks guys for creating this huge database of information. You are my heroes
#1429
04-28-2023, 02:47 PM
Hi to all.
I'm new here, and wait to ask about my problem:
I made swap CVT to Manual on Outlander Sport (ASX) 2015 2.0 4b11. I made swap engine ECU also, and now I use car without any problem except ASC. I have U0101 on ABS ecu which then goes and copies to ETACS. How have I change ETACS coding and solve this problem? Or have I just change ASC ECU?
I have tried in ETACS:
- Change CVT to 5MT. But on the top I still have string which told me - gearbox F1CJC.
- Change: Chassis type for ASC - Type 2, Veh.type for ASC - type 1, HBA, ABS, TCL, ASC, HSA - all type 1.
Also I visit man, who tried reprogramm my original engine ECU from CVT to manual (before I change on other ECU). And we had zero result, but get this error U0101 from that momment. So I'm not sure where the issue can be.
And still have this problem. Can anyone help me with this?
My ETACS number is 8637A643.
I'm new here, and wait to ask about my problem:
I made swap CVT to Manual on Outlander Sport (ASX) 2015 2.0 4b11. I made swap engine ECU also, and now I use car without any problem except ASC. I have U0101 on ABS ecu which then goes and copies to ETACS. How have I change ETACS coding and solve this problem? Or have I just change ASC ECU?
I have tried in ETACS:
- Change CVT to 5MT. But on the top I still have string which told me - gearbox F1CJC.
- Change: Chassis type for ASC - Type 2, Veh.type for ASC - type 1, HBA, ABS, TCL, ASC, HSA - all type 1.
Also I visit man, who tried reprogramm my original engine ECU from CVT to manual (before I change on other ECU). And we had zero result, but get this error U0101 from that momment. So I'm not sure where the issue can be.
And still have this problem. Can anyone help me with this?
My ETACS number is 8637A643.
#1430
09-11-2023, 11:47 AM
I've resurrected this long thread in an attempt to find out how to change a problem that our 2010 vehicle has had since the day we bought it in 2013 -- after the vehicle is locked, the passenger front door will not unlock automatically when that door is the only one approaced by someone carrying a FAST key. The FAST key's unlock button has to be pushed once to unlock the door, or the driver's door must be approached and opened first. This situation is a PIA for my wife because she has her key buried in her purse. (With the key in my hand, I approach the passenger front door and it will still not unlock without me pushing the unlock button on the key, so it is not that my wife's purse is shielding the key.)
I have the MMCS "equipment" keylock/unlock selection set so that all doors and back hatch lock with one push of the FAST key lock button or pressing the button on the door after exiting the vehicle. All doors and back hatch unlock with one push of the unlock button.
Again, I understand from the owner's manual that the passenger front door should unlock when a person who has a FAST key approaches that door and pulls the handle, but that does not happen. FWIW, there a no fault codes.
Anyone know why this is happening and how to correct it?
Thanks.
I have the MMCS "equipment" keylock/unlock selection set so that all doors and back hatch lock with one push of the FAST key lock button or pressing the button on the door after exiting the vehicle. All doors and back hatch unlock with one push of the unlock button.
Again, I understand from the owner's manual that the passenger front door should unlock when a person who has a FAST key approaches that door and pulls the handle, but that does not happen. FWIW, there a no fault codes.
Anyone know why this is happening and how to correct it?
Thanks.