hardly any ATF on dipstick
#11
06-25-2013, 03:44 PM
I want to know what I might be looking at a short time down the road when I take our vehicle in for a fluid change, so if you'd spill the beans here I'd really appreciate it.
First off, is your fluid ATF-J2 or ATF-J3? (Our tranny uses ATF-J3.)
Second, did the dealership charge this to you as a "service number" with just a total charge for the "service", or did they break out the actual details of the charges -- x number of litres of fluid at so many dollars per litre, plus x number of hours of labour at x dollars per hour? If the former, what was the total economic damage inflicted on you? If the latter, what did they charge you per litre of fluid, what did they charge you per hour for labour, and how many hours did they claim the job took?
Thanks for the infomation, Dave.
Tony
#12
06-25-2013, 04:05 PM
OK, Dave, you can't make that statement without some numbers.
I want to know what I might be looking at a short time down the road when I take our vehicle in for a fluid change, so if you'd spill the beans here I'd really appreciate it.
First off, is your fluid ATF-J2 or ATF-J3? (Our tranny uses ATF-J3.)
Second, did the dealership charge this to you as a "service number" with just a total charge for the "service", or did they break out the actual details of the charges -- x number of litres of fluid at so many dollars per litre, plus x number of hours of labour at x dollars per hour? If the former, what was the total economic damage inflicted on you? If the latter, what did they charge you per litre of fluid, what did they charge you per hour for labour, and how many hours did they claim the job took?
Thanks for the infomation, Dave.
Tony
I want to know what I might be looking at a short time down the road when I take our vehicle in for a fluid change, so if you'd spill the beans here I'd really appreciate it.
First off, is your fluid ATF-J2 or ATF-J3? (Our tranny uses ATF-J3.)
Second, did the dealership charge this to you as a "service number" with just a total charge for the "service", or did they break out the actual details of the charges -- x number of litres of fluid at so many dollars per litre, plus x number of hours of labour at x dollars per hour? If the former, what was the total economic damage inflicted on you? If the latter, what did they charge you per litre of fluid, what did they charge you per hour for labour, and how many hours did they claim the job took?
Thanks for the infomation, Dave.
Tony
#13
06-25-2013, 05:41 PM
So, 15 litres x $11/litre = $165 for fluid, and $350 - $165 = $185 for labor and any misc parts and extras.
As far as I can tell from the internet, ATF-J3 is at least $20 per litre, so if the dealership I go to also uses 15 litres, it'll be at least $300 for just the fluid alone. If the $185 for labor and extras is typical, I may very well be looking at close to $500 for a simple tranny fluid change. How wonderful.
I'm going to be doing some serious shopping around for the best price on this one.
#14
06-25-2013, 06:02 PM
If they used 15 litres, they replaced all the fluid in the tranny (assuming that they filled it correctly, which at this point is still uncertain).
So, 15 litres x $11/litre = $165 for fluid, and $350 - $165 = $185 for labor and any misc parts and extras.
As far as I can tell from the internet, ATF-J3 is at least $20 per litre, so if the dealership I go to also uses 15 litres, it'll be at least $300 for just the fluid alone. If the $185 for labor and extras is typical, I may very well be looking at close to $500 for a simple tranny fluid change. How wonderful.
I'm going to be doing some serious shopping around for the best price on this one.
So, 15 litres x $11/litre = $165 for fluid, and $350 - $165 = $185 for labor and any misc parts and extras.
As far as I can tell from the internet, ATF-J3 is at least $20 per litre, so if the dealership I go to also uses 15 litres, it'll be at least $300 for just the fluid alone. If the $185 for labor and extras is typical, I may very well be looking at close to $500 for a simple tranny fluid change. How wonderful.
I'm going to be doing some serious shopping around for the best price on this one.
#15
06-25-2013, 06:20 PM
Check out my signature. Our 2010 XLS V6 definitely uses J3. The original maintenance manual affirms it.
The 2011 pdf service manual, whose link has been recently been posted, also confirms that the 2011 LS tranny fluid is also J3.
I think that 2010 V6 transaxle was the first year for J3, but 2009 owners could confirm this.
BTW, what year is your vehicle?
The 2011 pdf service manual, whose link has been recently been posted, also confirms that the 2011 LS tranny fluid is also J3.
I think that 2010 V6 transaxle was the first year for J3, but 2009 owners could confirm this.
BTW, what year is your vehicle?
#16
06-25-2013, 06:29 PM
Check out my signature. Our 2010 XLS V6 definitely uses J3. The original maintenance manual affirms it.
The 2011 pdf service manual, whose link has been recently been posted, also confirms that the 2011 LS tranny fluid is also J3.
I think that 2010 V6 transaxle was the first year for J3, but 2009 owners could confirm this.
BTW, what year is your vehicle?
The 2011 pdf service manual, whose link has been recently been posted, also confirms that the 2011 LS tranny fluid is also J3.
I think that 2010 V6 transaxle was the first year for J3, but 2009 owners could confirm this.
BTW, what year is your vehicle?
#17
06-26-2013, 12:25 AM
I just read our ATF level for the first time and I must admit that because the fluid is so "thin", it's not an easy read. After three or four "dips", I determined that the easiest way to read the level is to immediately move the stick into a horizontal position right in front of a daytime running light and, while looking down at the stick from directly above the stick, rotate/rock the stick slightly in the beam while keeping it as level as possible horizontally so that the upper level of the relatively shiny fluid can be easily differentiated from the less-reflective dry stick above (next to) it.
If the stick is held vertically, the coating/layer of fluid on the stick immediately starts moving/flowing down the stick toward the tip to form a drop, thinning the fluid at the wet/dry interface, making it more difficult to discern. (OTOH, I can't even tell what color the fluid is unless I hold it vertically and allow that drop to form on the end of the stick. Only then can I see that it is red. I would not be able to tell the level on the horizontal stick by looking for a red fluid. Only by looking for shiny versus not shiny can I tell where the level is and, again, the daytime running light really helps with seeing that difference.)
BTW, the level of fluid in our transmission is perfect -- literally right on the upper mark on the H side of the stick. Good.
If the stick is held vertically, the coating/layer of fluid on the stick immediately starts moving/flowing down the stick toward the tip to form a drop, thinning the fluid at the wet/dry interface, making it more difficult to discern. (OTOH, I can't even tell what color the fluid is unless I hold it vertically and allow that drop to form on the end of the stick. Only then can I see that it is red. I would not be able to tell the level on the horizontal stick by looking for a red fluid. Only by looking for shiny versus not shiny can I tell where the level is and, again, the daytime running light really helps with seeing that difference.)
BTW, the level of fluid in our transmission is perfect -- literally right on the upper mark on the H side of the stick. Good.
#18
06-26-2013, 06:15 AM
I just read our ATF level for the first time and I must admit that because the fluid is so "thin", it's not an easy read. After three or four "dips", I determined that the easiest way to read the level is to immediately move the stick into a horizontal position right in front of a daytime running light and, while looking down at the stick from directly above the stick, rotate/rock the stick slightly in the beam while keeping it as level as possible horizontally so that the upper level of the relatively shiny fluid can be easily differentiated from the less-reflective dry stick above (next to) it.
If the stick is held vertically, the coating/layer of fluid on the stick immediately starts moving/flowing down the stick toward the tip to form a drop, thinning the fluid at the wet/dry interface, making it more difficult to discern. (OTOH, I can't even tell what color the fluid is unless I hold it vertically and allow that drop to form on the end of the stick. Only then can I see that it is red. I would not be able to tell the level on the horizontal stick by looking for a red fluid. Only by looking for shiny versus not shiny can I tell where the level is and, again, the daytime running light really helps with seeing that difference.)
BTW, the level of fluid in our transmission is perfect -- literally right on the upper mark on the H side of the stick. Good.
If the stick is held vertically, the coating/layer of fluid on the stick immediately starts moving/flowing down the stick toward the tip to form a drop, thinning the fluid at the wet/dry interface, making it more difficult to discern. (OTOH, I can't even tell what color the fluid is unless I hold it vertically and allow that drop to form on the end of the stick. Only then can I see that it is red. I would not be able to tell the level on the horizontal stick by looking for a red fluid. Only by looking for shiny versus not shiny can I tell where the level is and, again, the daytime running light really helps with seeing that difference.)
BTW, the level of fluid in our transmission is perfect -- literally right on the upper mark on the H side of the stick. Good.
I will certainly try that. My issue is that some fluid gets on the stick from the sides when pulling it out, so I have a hard time reading what is actually the level and what is fluid getting on the stick form just pulling it free.....
I will try that though.
Cheers,
dave
#19
06-26-2013, 10:13 AM
I will certainly try that. My issue is that some fluid gets on the stick from the sides when pulling it out, so I have a hard time reading what is actually the level and what is fluid getting on the stick form just pulling it free.....
I will try that though.
Cheers,
dave
I will try that though.
Cheers,
dave
When I said tilt/rotate the stick in front of the light, here's what I meant. Again, while keeping your eyes directly above the stick, hold the stick maybe 6" directly in front of the center-point of the light, parallel with both the front end of the vehicle and, in the other "plane", level with the ground.
For the first second or two also keep the flat surfaces of the stick parallel with the surface of the ground. One side will be "looking" down at the ground while the other side will be looking up at the sky (and your eyes).
Then make believe that the stick is the throttle on a motorcycle. While still keeping the stick in the above two planes, "twist" (or, if you prefer, "tilt") the flat surface stick forward and backward away from you and then toward you (the flat surface of the stick no longer parallel with the ground's surface) back and forth -- as if you were trying to reflect the beam of light from the headlamp UP into to your eyes, which is precisely what you are trying to do. The wetted part of the stick will reflect the light into your eyes, while the dry part will not.
The above is the one and only way that allows my eyes to see where the wetted part ends and the dry part begins. The back and forth twisting/rocking motion is the only way I could find to maintain adequate thickness in the fluid film to do the reflecting. If held in the proper orientation, the fluid can only run off the stick by moving to either of the two long edges of the stick, but the back and forth rocking motion prevents it from doing that.
Although it takes forever to describe the procedure, it can be performed in only three or four seconds. As soon as the stick exits the tube, put it into the horizontal orientation while moving it in front of the light. Then start rocking while looking downward over the stick. Voila, there's your fluid level.
#20
06-28-2013, 08:16 AM
Because the stick is forced to change direction by the filler tube as it is slid in, one can't help but slide it out while touching at least some part of the tube, but that does not prevent ultimately getting an accurate reading.
When I said tilt/rotate the stick in front of the light, here's what I meant. Again, while keeping your eyes directly above the stick, hold the stick maybe 6" directly in front of the center-point of the light, parallel with both the front end of the vehicle and, in the other "plane", level with the ground.
For the first second or two also keep the flat surfaces of the stick parallel with the surface of the ground. One side will be "looking" down at the ground while the other side will be looking up at the sky (and your eyes).
Then make believe that the stick is the throttle on a motorcycle. While still keeping the stick in the above two planes, "twist" (or, if you prefer, "tilt") the flat surface stick forward and backward away from you and then toward you (the flat surface of the stick no longer parallel with the ground's surface) back and forth -- as if you were trying to reflect the beam of light from the headlamp UP into to your eyes, which is precisely what you are trying to do. The wetted part of the stick will reflect the light into your eyes, while the dry part will not.
The above is the one and only way that allows my eyes to see where the wetted part ends and the dry part begins. The back and forth twisting/rocking motion is the only way I could find to maintain adequate thickness in the fluid film to do the reflecting. If held in the proper orientation, the fluid can only run off the stick by moving to either of the two long edges of the stick, but the back and forth rocking motion prevents it from doing that.
Although it takes forever to describe the procedure, it can be performed in only three or four seconds. As soon as the stick exits the tube, put it into the horizontal orientation while moving it in front of the light. Then start rocking while looking downward over the stick. Voila, there's your fluid level.
When I said tilt/rotate the stick in front of the light, here's what I meant. Again, while keeping your eyes directly above the stick, hold the stick maybe 6" directly in front of the center-point of the light, parallel with both the front end of the vehicle and, in the other "plane", level with the ground.
For the first second or two also keep the flat surfaces of the stick parallel with the surface of the ground. One side will be "looking" down at the ground while the other side will be looking up at the sky (and your eyes).
Then make believe that the stick is the throttle on a motorcycle. While still keeping the stick in the above two planes, "twist" (or, if you prefer, "tilt") the flat surface stick forward and backward away from you and then toward you (the flat surface of the stick no longer parallel with the ground's surface) back and forth -- as if you were trying to reflect the beam of light from the headlamp UP into to your eyes, which is precisely what you are trying to do. The wetted part of the stick will reflect the light into your eyes, while the dry part will not.
The above is the one and only way that allows my eyes to see where the wetted part ends and the dry part begins. The back and forth twisting/rocking motion is the only way I could find to maintain adequate thickness in the fluid film to do the reflecting. If held in the proper orientation, the fluid can only run off the stick by moving to either of the two long edges of the stick, but the back and forth rocking motion prevents it from doing that.
Although it takes forever to describe the procedure, it can be performed in only three or four seconds. As soon as the stick exits the tube, put it into the horizontal orientation while moving it in front of the light. Then start rocking while looking downward over the stick. Voila, there's your fluid level.