My 2010 Outlander ES 2.4L FWD pops a little when I turn. Also, it is pulling slightly to the left, but also sometimes feels like the front end floats back and forth slightly while driving(but not constantly). Could this be my CV Axle? It looks like my inner boot may be torn a little. The air pressure in the tires is the same in all of them. Any more ideas on what to check? Also, it is a left hand drive and it is passenger side that has tear. If I change this CV Axle, will I lose any CVT fluid that I'll need to replace?

 

Ripped boot...popping when turning.....cv shaft is done. Plan on getting it done sooner than later.

 

It is the passenger side CV. Will I lose any CVT fluid when I change the axle? I need to change CVT fluid but it will be after the holidays before I can afford to do that.

 

Probably a bit, not all.

 

a CV Joint and CVT fluid are not related

- the CVT constant variable transmission is enclosed (but you shouldn't let the fluid go too long, although an extra couple thousand miles won't kill it)

- a CV Joint is a caged ball bearing system packed with grease (when the boot is torn, the grease escapes allowing water/salt/dirt/sand to get in there and create corrosion/other problems)
- now the CV joint can go bad even with a good boot from the stresses of driving, it's just most boots tear many years into the cars life and cage that holds the bearing assembly also cracks many years into the cars life, sometimes together, sometimes years apart, but for sure having a torn boot will increase the chances of the CV cracking
- according to the manual, they're calling it an EBJ and it comes as a single piece and doesn't look too expensive (~$80 on rockauto)

 

Not to be a smartass but I know all of that. My question was would I lose any CVT fluid where the spline of the axle goes inside of the transaxle. I know on a manual transmission when you change the axle out especially the passenger side you lose a little bit of gear oil and I just wondered if the same would happen for a vehicle with the CVT.

 

oh duh, sorry - according to the service manual it simply says to be sure not to damage the seal, no mention of fluid seepage, also not to pull the inner joint but pry it off, it must be a pretty precise fit if they're warning that the spline could damage the seal

I've never had to do a Mitsubishi, so my experience is with Honda's and Toyota's where you just pop the boot clamp and slide the roller skate bearing (my term) out of the cup. Here's the service manual instructions:

-The magnetic encoder collects metallic particles easily,
because it is magnetized. Make sure that the magnetic
encoder does not collect metallic particles.

-When removing the driveshaft, make sure that it does not
contact with the magnetic encoder (integrated with the
inner oil seal) to avoid damage.

-While pulling the lower side of the brake disc toward you,
remove the driveshaft assembly from the hub.

-Never pull out the driveshaft assembly from the EBJ
assembly side. Otherwise, the PTJ assembly may be
damaged. Always pull out from the PTJ side with a lever.

-Care must be taken to ensure that the oil seal of the
transaxle is not damaged by the spline part of the
driveshaft assembly.

-Insert a lever between the transaxle case or transfer and
driveshaft assembly, and then pull the driveshaft assembly out
from the transaxle

I hope it's that easy

 

Thanks! I've changed a few out on Hyundais before and you do have to be careful about seal damage. It will only happen if you pry out at an angle. I know on the passenger side of Hyundai's you lose a little trans fluid when the spline comes out.

 

My question is whether your failing axle can cause any of the drivability problems you cite: pulling left, a floating side-to-side feel. I have these, and I hear an "occasional" popping when turning, but usually only when it's cold. My axle boots are not torn, but as mentioned, that doesn't mean my 160k-mile axles aren't failing.

I replaced the suspension all around last year thinking that the side-to-side floating was worn suspension parts, but new parts didn't fix that problem.

 

I recently replaced the inner and outer tie rods due to an accident and noticed that there's much less "steering float" - well I describe that as being on a nice, smooth, level freeway at 60+ mph and having to correct the steering (outer lanes not included due to the slant for rain drainage) - when it was new you could look at the radio without worrying you'd end up wandering into another lane - since adding the new parts I can once again remain travelling in the center of the lane