Help! GX3 4WD & ASC system service required (plus limp mode)
Hi guys,
I was hoping for some help. I recently bought (7th September 2018) a 64 plate GX3 Outlander (diesel) with c.44,000 on the clock. Within 3 days of driving it, it went into limp mode and the 4WD and ASC system service lights came on. I pulled over and restarted the engine which stopped the warning lights and took it out of limp mode (engine management light remained).
To cut a long story short, it's been back to the dealer (not a Mitsubishi dealer) 4 times now and every time it comes back, within 24hrs it's back to the same issue. Dealer reckons after they've "fixed" it, they drive it with no issues (they've certainly clocked up plenty miles on it!) but we have the issues within such a short space of time upon its return that it seems very fishy to me.
We've given them plenty of opportunities to fix the issue and are now pushing for a refund which they are obviously trying to prevent. They'd even suggested to my partner that I must be pressing a button to cause the problem! It has always happened in the 4WDeco mode as I've only ever driven it on tarmac so far. We've never changed any settings any time they've dropped it off.
I'm stressed beyond belief with the situation and wondered if anyone had had similar issues so I can go back to the dealer forearmed.
What they say they've done so far - changed MAF sensor, aligned tracking, put on all matching tyres (they were sure this was the issue as they had put on two different brands of tyres when they'd prepped the car before I collected it). They also reckon they sent it to Mitsubishi for a full health check which was fine (although I've not received any paperwork for this yet!).
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Sacha
I was hoping for some help. I recently bought (7th September 2018) a 64 plate GX3 Outlander (diesel) with c.44,000 on the clock. Within 3 days of driving it, it went into limp mode and the 4WD and ASC system service lights came on. I pulled over and restarted the engine which stopped the warning lights and took it out of limp mode (engine management light remained).
To cut a long story short, it's been back to the dealer (not a Mitsubishi dealer) 4 times now and every time it comes back, within 24hrs it's back to the same issue. Dealer reckons after they've "fixed" it, they drive it with no issues (they've certainly clocked up plenty miles on it!) but we have the issues within such a short space of time upon its return that it seems very fishy to me.
We've given them plenty of opportunities to fix the issue and are now pushing for a refund which they are obviously trying to prevent. They'd even suggested to my partner that I must be pressing a button to cause the problem! It has always happened in the 4WDeco mode as I've only ever driven it on tarmac so far. We've never changed any settings any time they've dropped it off.
I'm stressed beyond belief with the situation and wondered if anyone had had similar issues so I can go back to the dealer forearmed.
What they say they've done so far - changed MAF sensor, aligned tracking, put on all matching tyres (they were sure this was the issue as they had put on two different brands of tyres when they'd prepped the car before I collected it). They also reckon they sent it to Mitsubishi for a full health check which was fine (although I've not received any paperwork for this yet!).
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Sacha
Hello fellow Outlanders,
I've had the same issue. If you're driving a diesel as most of us do here in the UK then it's because of a clogged or not properly regenerated DPF filter.
The solution is to purchase a suitable DPF, injector, carbon cleaner and add it to a full tank of petrol/diesel. Then drive on the motorway/highway for a good 30 minutes trying to maintain a revs of 3000. That's usually done the trick for me.
Hope this helps!
Recently, I had an engine Carbon Clean performed on the vehicle. It's a process that takes between 2-4 hours depending on how much carbon deposits have accumuated in your vehicle according to the sophisticated sensors. Naturally, I was qite sceptical of the process at first. But I swear by it now! It's almost made my car as good as new. The process involves dislodging the carbon deposits within the engine chamber and allowing them to naturally exit the vehicle through its exhaust system. I have both newly regained torque and brake horse power.
I've had the same issue. If you're driving a diesel as most of us do here in the UK then it's because of a clogged or not properly regenerated DPF filter.
The solution is to purchase a suitable DPF, injector, carbon cleaner and add it to a full tank of petrol/diesel. Then drive on the motorway/highway for a good 30 minutes trying to maintain a revs of 3000. That's usually done the trick for me.
Hope this helps!
Recently, I had an engine Carbon Clean performed on the vehicle. It's a process that takes between 2-4 hours depending on how much carbon deposits have accumuated in your vehicle according to the sophisticated sensors. Naturally, I was qite sceptical of the process at first. But I swear by it now! It's almost made my car as good as new. The process involves dislodging the carbon deposits within the engine chamber and allowing them to naturally exit the vehicle through its exhaust system. I have both newly regained torque and brake horse power.
It may be ok to use these products to help keep the engine clean, but on engines with heavy deposits the only safe way is physically scrape away the carbon and remove it with a vacuum.
I had the exact same issues and have had 9 months off hell.
Limp mode when revving, sometimes the car would work fine for a couple of minutes then all the service lights would come up 4wd asc and the car lights looked like a christmas tree.
code was reading turbo under boost 99% of the time sometimes showing a map sensor
jobs i had done as told by a mechanic
turbo rebuild (expensive) map sensor changed (about£100) maf sensor changed ( £80)
endless fees to mechanics
dpf clean professional
couple of cleaners in fuel tank
some had a short term solution some never worked at all.
THEN
a young mechanic had a look after losing all hope but hes a friend of the family
says the map sensor isn't reading when revving and the numbers staying the same
checks the pip going to map sensor try's to blowing through says its blocked
takes a few bits off
THROTTLE BODY
took the throttle body off and it was caked in carbon build up
scrapped it all out put it all back together and has been better than ever before
only a week into it work and hope it stays the same but i thought i would put this out there if it helps anyone cause i know if id of seen this it would of got checked and its the cheapest solution to check as it requires no parts and minimal time and effort. it would have saved me up to £2000.
I was always saying if i fix it im getting rid before something else happens because its been a nightmare but after seeing what came out and the difference all my problems currently now gone.
hope this helps
2014 outlander
Limp mode when revving, sometimes the car would work fine for a couple of minutes then all the service lights would come up 4wd asc and the car lights looked like a christmas tree.
code was reading turbo under boost 99% of the time sometimes showing a map sensor
jobs i had done as told by a mechanic
turbo rebuild (expensive) map sensor changed (about£100) maf sensor changed ( £80)
endless fees to mechanics
dpf clean professional
couple of cleaners in fuel tank
some had a short term solution some never worked at all.
THEN
a young mechanic had a look after losing all hope but hes a friend of the family
says the map sensor isn't reading when revving and the numbers staying the same
checks the pip going to map sensor try's to blowing through says its blocked
takes a few bits off
THROTTLE BODY
took the throttle body off and it was caked in carbon build up
scrapped it all out put it all back together and has been better than ever before
only a week into it work and hope it stays the same but i thought i would put this out there if it helps anyone cause i know if id of seen this it would of got checked and its the cheapest solution to check as it requires no parts and minimal time and effort. it would have saved me up to £2000.
I was always saying if i fix it im getting rid before something else happens because its been a nightmare but after seeing what came out and the difference all my problems currently now gone.
hope this helps
2014 outlander
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