Hi all.. I have a 2011 outlander sport and would like to get a motorcycle carrier to haul my dirt bike....I installed a class 3 hitch originally to carry my bicycles recently got back into enduro dirt bike riding and would like to be able to haul my dirt bike on a motorcycle carrier that attaches to the hitch
Wondering if anyone has done the same? And any and all tips much appreciated
Thanks in advance for your input

 

they generally require a long hitch tongue to clamp to.
But an engineer could make something fit.

 

You would need to add some airbags to the rear for sure. Also some stability straps to help.

But how much does your dirtbike weigh? I think the biggest limitation is your hitch box staying together and not breaking off from the hitch.

Ideally i would just buy a really small 4x6 utility trailer and tow it behind the car. I towed my gsxr 600 everywhere in my subaru impreza.

 

GGG.. Bike weighs 295#, what is the hitch box?, was considering a small trailer but have no room for it + the yearly cost of registration and adding it to my car insurance

 

The hitch box is what i call the square tubing that the tow bar slides into that's welded to the frame of the hitch. It will probably be the weakest link to break.

Here's what a broken one looks like.

300lbs is quite heavy to cantilever out that far beyond the bumper. 400lbs is the tongue rating i believe, but that's usually on the ball of a towbar. Moving the center of the load out further increases torque on that box.

not saying it cant be done, i just wouldnt do it.

 

Ah.. Gotcha didn't know it was called that... What kind of weight was put on that hitch to damage it?
Anyway my train of thought is exactly what you said... As well as E-trailer.com
The cantilever effect is my enemy..as well as my suspensions limitation. So basically a no go
Been in discussion with a vendor cyclecarrier.com been really helpful sent me photos of cars with class 2 hitches, similar SUV types with bikes on them.. And also basically confirmed what we are discussing here... The distance away from the hitch, he stated there is a safe margin of about 15" out from the receiver anything after that the cantilever effect starts to show affect,, he sent me a form that I filled out detailing dimensions of my trucks rear end etc... Waiting for the reply, then go from there.. Will test my friends carrier this coming weekend just to see how much the suspension sags... If it's a lot then I will just forget the idea... Because I don't see air bag kits for this vehicle and if there is it's probably expensive

 

Just looked at the photo again.... Funny the welds held and the actual material was the one that failed

 

That's a heavier duty class 4 or 5 hitch, so thicker steel. But the principle is the same, scaled down to the lighter and thinner steel of a class 3 hitch.

Airbags are cheap, maybe $150 for a simple kit with 2 bags. The bags fit inside your rear springs, you run an airtime to the rear or side of your car. Use a normal air compressor like the same you can buy for your tires, and inflate the bags until you're back up to factory level.

If do put a motorcycle on the back of your car, get good stability straps, tie them to the rear of the carrier and your hatch of roof rack.

 

I paid $450 a couple months ago for a brand new 4' by 8' utility trailer. My registration and tag for the year was another $20.

It may be different where you are, but in GA and many other state there are no insurance requirements on small trailers. Also, trailers like that really hold their resale value. You can really consider it renting; if you decide to sell in 2-3 years you're really only down one or two hundred dollars.

If space is the biggest issue, for a little more money they have folding versions.

 

Damn class 4 or 5 what were you hauling that it failed?

The sport has coil overs in the rear...and can't find anything,, Do you have a link for the bags?

Straps are to counter the cantilever effect to relieve a little weight off the tongue? If so that's not a bad idea