Hello all,

I have an 04 Outlander, and can't get the blower to send heat to the feet. I researched this issue for about 2 months now,
I don't have a stuck selector ****, so I'm guessing a broken/disconnected piece of plastic is the issue not allowing air to flow down to feet.

I can't find a "how to" or much info about a fix for this issue, other than: the mix door is stuck from dust/dirt accumilation or a broken guide or stick.

My issue is how to get to this blower mix door and gears so I can detemine what needs to be fixed.

Step by step instructions and/or diagrams would be great.

I know I am not alone with this issue and would definitely appreciate warm feet on my 85 mile commute every day.

Thanks!!!!

 

I do not know about the specifics of the first gen system, but this what happened in my ranger. I know it isn't the same vehicle, but I can't imagine there are drastically different designs across the board. A service/repair manual would be able to talk directly.

There are two doors that are controlled via a vacuum source. One door blends the hot/cold air so that you have temperature control. The other door moves a door that directs where the air goes windshield/dash/feet, etc. I had a vacuum leak in my engine compartment that was enough to allow my temp blend door to work, but would not allow the directional door to work. The directional door would default to windshield position. If I revved the engine, creating more vacuum, I could get it to go to the dash some...but was still pretty weak.

i've also had a Pontiac Grand Prix that had a resistor pack blow, but that was for fan control.

If you had vacuum leak, I'd think it'd be more likely in the engine compartment where the rubber lines are more prone to the environment. My Ranger's problem was actually small rubber adapter hoses that connected two harder plastic lines to my vacuum reservoir. I was having the directional door problems and my 4WD system went offline as it utilizes vacuum.

If you do not see anything obvious, with the engine running you can spray (a bit) suspect joints with something like ether/starting fluid or brake/carb cleaner. if there is a leak, the fluid will get vacuumed up and you'll hear the engine rev up a bit. Alternatively, I suggest you pick up a vacuum gauge to check various spots. Something like this:

Edit: Something like the MV8000 kit would also test vacuum levels as well as allow you to do brake bleeding or fluid replacement. I'd get the MV8000 over a regular gauge. I have one and works great. http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpk.asp