that was the only hard part, just try to line them up and have patience.

 

The owners guide warns you not to separate the two halves of the housing too much else you will dislodge the housing from the bottom hinge. I think that 90 % of the time that is going to happen. They give you no instructions on how to snap the bottom hinge back together. I think something may be broken on mine. I'll post a picture.

 

I try to open the air box using a V method after undoing the clasps to remove the element. Only open at the top and not the bottom where the hinges are. It's a tight fit getting the filter element in and out.

If all goes well you can put the new element in and close it without disengaging the hinges done. Otherwise if something happens like in your case this is what I do:

• Remove filter element.
• Connect bottom hinges. Notice part 4 seats in part 9 shown in the attache image.
• Open up the top of the air box halves to insert the filter element. The Mass AirFlow (MAF) side of the air box (part 9) is fixed to a bracket while part 4 is more free. Move part 4 more than part 9 to insert the element.
• Close the clasps when the element is seated properly and seals all around.
• Pull on the bottom of the air box in the direction of part 4 to check the hinges are solid and connected.
• If not go to the top and start again

 

Thanks for the illustration. 2 things

- On my 2007 XLS, the clasps are both hinged on the MAF side of the housing.
- It looks like that 2 vertical pieces on the MAF side of the housing hinge are snapped off on mine. Most likely done by the dealer.

I guess I can live with this (that is what dutc tape is for) or try to find out if I can purchase the MAF side of the housing. The only tricky part about replacing it is, not to damage the MAF.

 

I have 2011 Outlander. Would changing the air filter be the same process?
Also how easy to break are the hinges?
If its likely I will break something I not even attempt myself.
Thanks

 

If it's the same as the 09 Outlander, just don't be OVERly forceful and you'll be fine.

If the brackets at the bottom do separate, the only way you can get them back in is to NOT have the air filter in there. WIth the filter out, line up the two pieces, but maybe even angle the movable peice (the one without the MAF sensor) down a bit and then push them together. THey should lock. To make sure, try and life the movable peice up - it should now be connected to the other piece.

At this point,take the air filter and wedge it down in place - DO NOT pull the two peices apart TOO much or the bottom will come undone again. Just pull the tops apart enough and force the filter in. Then clip the metal peieces together and DONE!

(I just went through this this morning)....lol

 

Completed the installation of K&N air filter this morning.....I had no issues thanks to the posters in this thread.

 

If you remove the two screws/clips for the intake duct at the front radiator mount, you can completely remove the intake duct and outer section of the airbox. If you then look inside the outer section of the airbox, you can unclip the duct from the outer part of the airbox. Then you can easily put the filter in and get all three parts (outer airbox/filter/inner airbox) back together. then just push the intake duct back into the outer filter box section until it clicks back in place and replace the two screws/clips. Takes all of 3 minutes and you're sure everything is back in place properly.

 

Went to try removing the screw/clips that hold the air tube to the front radiator mount, and one of them is not unscrewing

The philips "screw" is just spinning inside the outer clip body.

BTW, these are the clips (does anyone know where one could buy new ones? I checked local auto stores and they don't care them)

 

Been running with a k&n air filter for 2 months(at least). Check engine lght comes on night before 8k service. Dealer tells me its causing it to run to rich causing a cylinder 3 misfire. Anyone heard this before?
I will have the dealer give a full written explanation with the error code. If this is the cause k&n better refund my money.

After contacting K&N and forwarding all of the information I was given by the dealer. K&N said they don't think the air filter is responsible for the problem. But are going to refund the cost of their filter, the cost for the new OEM filter and the dealer charge for using the diagnostic. Because I live in Canada they're not going to make me ship their filter back to them, but asked that I destroy the filter and email them pictures before they will issue my refund cheque.