Bought an 03 outlander and it drove really well. it has 177,xxx miles on it and everything seemed to check out, no codes or anything. after we bought it, it started making a sound, and the only way i can describe it is it's like a humming/weedeater sound. it started ticking and we took it in to have the lash adjusters replaced, but that didn't fix this problem. also the oil light comes when you come to a stop and sometimes it dies/stalls. we believe this is an oil sending unit, though the stalling i'm not sure about. the easier you are on it the quieter the noise, but you can always hear it and it doesn't sound like it's not harmful, i reall don't want to drive it right now. We are low on funds so we can't get it checked out, but my shop said it sounded like it was coming from the front of the engine, they also said the head look like it was reconditioned are put on recently, so it's had work done to it but we don't know what for. any help is appreciated.

 

You are either hearing a failed bearing in the idler pulley, alternator, or something else accessory related. You may also be hearing the winding down of balance shafts, as they sometimes make that harmonic whine. It could also be coming from the transmission, this is a fairly common characteristic of automatics.

If the oil light is coming on, it means you have ZERO oil pressure at that moment. The oil light should only be on when the engine is switched off. If you're experiencing that, either the sending unit or the pump itself has failed. This makes me very concerned, but only if it persists after the sending unit replacement. It's super easy to replace too, just unscrew the existing one, seal the threads of the new one (with thread sealing liquid, NOT teflon tape), and stick it back in.

I could say more definitively if you were to capture the sound and make it available for me to hear.

The stalling is from the torque converter failing to disengage coming to a stop. I have driven numerous vehicles with this issue, and it's more of an annoyance than anything else. I think this has to do with either dirty transmission fluid, or a design flaw in the transmission itself. I wouldn't worry so much about this, just make sure your fluid is topped off with the correct stuff, and is a nice cherry red color & doesn't smell burnt.

 

I have had the engine noises you describe come from bad belts, too. Use the sethescope method while engine is running to narrow down the noise problem. Couold be a number of places, as ther are a lot of rotating parts under the hood-alternator, water pump, idler pulleys, belt tensioners ect. They all have bearings in them that fail.

On the oil pressure problem. Check the pressure with a pressure gauge. That's the only way to start. Possibly faulty sending unit, worn oil pump or excessive main bearing clearance. Start with the easy stuff.

 

it was the worst, the oil sending unit was correct and the oil pump is dead i believe. the auto shop had taken the belts off when they did the lash adjusters so they knew it was the engine, but from there to the h0ouse the sound got worse, and im pretty sure the engine is toast... so a couple questions, do all 4g64 engines work in the outlander? i figure the eclipse one will be cheapest, maybe just switch over oil pan? any help would be appreciated, and if anyone has an engine for cheap in the east Tennessee definately let me know

 

Bump for info should i try an oil pump anyway to see its cheaper than a new engine is there anything else that might keep oil from reaching the head?

 

If the oil pump was weak, it was starving the engine of oil. She needs a rebuild/replacement.

 

On the old (early to mid '70s) ford 400 cu in engines, when they lost oil pressure the standard fix was new oil pump (high volume, not high pressure) and new main bearings (standard dia usually), unless the engine had been run too long with no pressure, then it was a new/used engine time. Best to plasti-gauge the bearings and go with the diameter that gives the proper clerence

If you open it up for oil pump, replace the main bearings. If your engine has cam bearings, do those too.

If the oil pan can be gotten off without too many problems, it's more time consuming than technical. The only special tools you need is a torque wrench, which can be rented at a lot of auto parts stores.

Just keep in mind that this is a patch-job and will not help an engine that has an oil-consumption problem.

 

no oil consumption problems, just oil moving problems, i really don't know what kinda damage could have been done, no way to find out unless i take off the valve cover and oil pan to see what it looks like inside. that's why i wanted to know about just getting a used engine from a junkyard or something just cuz it would be cheaper in the long run im guessing. and i still need to know if the eclipse or galant 4g64 will swap into the 03 outlander just in case it looks rough when i pop her open

 

No go on the Eclipse 4G64. You need an outlander longblock. Junk yards are your friend!

I would not re-bearing an engine that had oil starvation issues. I would be too worried that metal chunks could be lurking, especially since you heard a noise that means metal on metal contact. I bet the crank is destroyed on the #4 journal, since it's furthest from the pump.

 

[QUOTE=Sebba;292277]No go on the Eclipse 4G64. You need an outlander longblock. Junk yards are your friend!

is there a reason the eclipse version wont work? i come from the vw world and there you learn that a lot of engines are interchangable such as the 1.8t in longitudinal setup from a passat or a4 or jetta, nb or golf in transverse form, just certain things have to be changed out, for the rotational fitting, but the longblock itself has no issues with this. more on point is the r32 and touareg 3.2 vr6 engines. different tuning and mounting, but the touareg 3.2 has a larger oil pan, other than that it can be bolted into the r32 with all the r32 stuff, the only other difference i can think of is less agressive cams, but the r32 isnt going to care. i wont lie, i dont know anything about mitsu cars other than my friends 1g talon, but a longblock is a longblock, thats why i ask, not saying youre lying just more curious. a lot of manufacturers use the same engine with different platforms to save money, and as far as the basics, i couldn't see why all the accessories and manifolds etc wouldnt bolt up to an eclipse or galant 4g64. most engines from the same period have the same style inlets and ports, sensor holes, even mounting points, though the engine mounts will change from platform to platform, they may all use the same holes on the block. so as a learner of my new mitsubishi paper weight that needs to be a family car again, tell me more about the 4g64 or provide links if you can so i can figure this out. i know all about vw and their chassis, platforms engines etc. but this is a whole new discovery id like to explore