Rear running lights not working but brake lights do
#11
06-19-2019, 08:52 PM
Did the dealer say where the wire was corroded? I believe that’s most likely the reason why mine isn’t working.
#12
06-19-2019, 10:01 PM
The corroded wire was on the actual light assembly. My light assembly was replaced two years ago when the original one got damaged when I got rear ended.
They traced it to improper replacement. This made it an easy fix.
#13
09-17-2019, 03:54 PM
Same problem / fixed
OULAND11 I had the same problem and fixed it with your solution... THANK YOU!
#14
09-26-2019, 05:59 PM
Problem/ fixed
They initially blamed my LED bulbs - which I aggressively disproved.
The corroded wire was on the actual light assembly. My light assembly was replaced two years ago when the original one got damaged when I got rear ended.
They traced it to improper replacement. This made it an easy fix.
The corroded wire was on the actual light assembly. My light assembly was replaced two years ago when the original one got damaged when I got rear ended.
They traced it to improper replacement. This made it an easy fix.
#15
10-21-2019, 01:36 PM
Hello, first of all.... THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!... Second, WOW, this worked (change the light bulb inside de glove box).... Third, How come this happens? Any information about the wiring in these cars? Totally insane this problem.
#16
10-28-2019, 05:59 PM
I have a similar problema with a Mitsubishi Outlander 2015 and still not able to fix it, the problema is when I turn off the car and I locked the car, the right running light will stay on for a few minutes and then will turn off by in self, I take a look of the glove box light and is working, I notice that as son as the glove box light turns off the running light turn off…..
I still dont know what the problema is, if someone have any comments?
Thank you in advance.
I still dont know what the problema is, if someone have any comments?
Thank you in advance.
#17
02-06-2020, 11:31 AM
I have the same issue, I realized a few weeks ago about it and started to check fuses and I decided to buy a new tail light which is an assembled unit but the worse part is that issue still the same (head-eke), now I have to check the wiring and see what I can find.
#19
02-29-2020, 08:23 PM
Same problem here
I replaced my licence plate lamps, and the RH tail lamp flickered on as I removed the left side licence lamp, but it is still not on having replaced them both. The tail light does work independently with correct voltage applies.
wondering if it's also tied into other lamps or the trailer connection.
I do like the way the turn signal flashes faster on one side, if a bio has blown on that circuit, it's quite handy. But this is just plain annoying and illogical.
Glad I didn't spend the money on a replacement unit just yet, but don't know how I can do a computer reset if I need that done.
Can it be done through a cheap Bluetooth obdii tool?
wondering if it's also tied into other lamps or the trailer connection.
I do like the way the turn signal flashes faster on one side, if a bio has blown on that circuit, it's quite handy. But this is just plain annoying and illogical.
Glad I didn't spend the money on a replacement unit just yet, but don't know how I can do a computer reset if I need that done.
Can it be done through a cheap Bluetooth obdii tool?
#20
12-13-2020, 11:22 PM
LED burnt out
So our 2011 outlander started having a few problems. Among the outstanding issues is a problem with the rear running lights. (these are the red lights lit up at night when the head lights are on). These are red led lights, and they are also the same as the brake lights they just are dimmer when the brakes aren't pressed.
Well the problem is that the passanger side running light does not light up. the brake light works when the brakes are pressed so i would assume since they are the same leds that the leds aren't burned out or the light damaged. If i look really really close the leds are lit but basically at 1% brightness. you can just barely tell they are lit.
So the wierd thing is that both started having the issue so we took it to the dealer and they told us we were looking at a 1500$ etacs replacement. (seemed pretty steep). They called us about an hour later and told us they were wrong and that it was some sort of computer reset that had to be done and that now the driver side light is functioning again. They told us that the passanger side just needed to be replace. I figured i could save a bit of $ and replace the light myself.
I purchased a replacement off of ebay and installed it but it has the same problem (ebay seller insisted that it was tested and working). So at this point i'm guessing the problem isn't the light itself..... i still question how it could be the light when the same leds are used for braking and seem to work just fine when braking.
I haven't taken it back to the dealer yet but i'm afraid it might be the etacs and i'd like not to pay 1500 to replace something that is a single rear light issue.
From what i can find the rear light has 3 wires. 1 ground and the other 12/7v lines. when the brake light is pressed the lines go to 14V (or whatever the battery is) when the running light is on it is like 9-10 V so from what i can tell the only difference in the running light vs brake light is the voltage passing to the leds.
So here is my idea for a <1500$ fix. I figure both of the rear lights work the same way. So say it's something with the computer being able to control that light then why not just use the signal from the driver side on both sides. I could just splice and run wires from the driver side rear light over to the passanger side. Both should light the same way at the same times so the signal should be the same. I figure this would work but i can think of one reason it might not be the best idea.... Current. I worry that running both rear lights might be too much current for whatever is driving the driver side leds. What do you guys think? Would the worst thing i be risking by trying this is a blown fuse or do i risk damaging the etacs? Does anyone know of any other reason why this might be happening.
What are your thoughts?
Thanks for any help anyone can offer
oh and to clarify, yes i did check the fuses.
Well the problem is that the passanger side running light does not light up. the brake light works when the brakes are pressed so i would assume since they are the same leds that the leds aren't burned out or the light damaged. If i look really really close the leds are lit but basically at 1% brightness. you can just barely tell they are lit.
So the wierd thing is that both started having the issue so we took it to the dealer and they told us we were looking at a 1500$ etacs replacement. (seemed pretty steep). They called us about an hour later and told us they were wrong and that it was some sort of computer reset that had to be done and that now the driver side light is functioning again. They told us that the passanger side just needed to be replace. I figured i could save a bit of $ and replace the light myself.
I purchased a replacement off of ebay and installed it but it has the same problem (ebay seller insisted that it was tested and working). So at this point i'm guessing the problem isn't the light itself..... i still question how it could be the light when the same leds are used for braking and seem to work just fine when braking.
I haven't taken it back to the dealer yet but i'm afraid it might be the etacs and i'd like not to pay 1500 to replace something that is a single rear light issue.
From what i can find the rear light has 3 wires. 1 ground and the other 12/7v lines. when the brake light is pressed the lines go to 14V (or whatever the battery is) when the running light is on it is like 9-10 V so from what i can tell the only difference in the running light vs brake light is the voltage passing to the leds.
So here is my idea for a <1500$ fix. I figure both of the rear lights work the same way. So say it's something with the computer being able to control that light then why not just use the signal from the driver side on both sides. I could just splice and run wires from the driver side rear light over to the passanger side. Both should light the same way at the same times so the signal should be the same. I figure this would work but i can think of one reason it might not be the best idea.... Current. I worry that running both rear lights might be too much current for whatever is driving the driver side leds. What do you guys think? Would the worst thing i be risking by trying this is a blown fuse or do i risk damaging the etacs? Does anyone know of any other reason why this might be happening.
What are your thoughts?
Thanks for any help anyone can offer
oh and to clarify, yes i did check the fuses.
I guess I am an unlucky guy whose left rear LED bulb really burned out.Thanks to previous posts I checked fuses and glow compartment, plates lights bulbs but none of them were faulty.I removed the right side rear light assembly and connected it to the left side connector and it was working so that tells me the led bulb was burnt out. Since the whole unit was sealed there is no way getting to it.My choices were Mitsubishi stealer-ship in Regina where they were asking $597 CDN (I asked them if it was gold plated) or ordering it online from China for $90 CDN but with estimated delivery two months from now.So I went to a local auto wrecker and bought rear brake/running light harness from a Lancer for $5. I also bought red two stage LED light bulb from Princess Auto for $ 9. Then I drilled a hole trough existing LED bulb.I connected all three wires (black -negative, green- running lights, green/white stripe- brake light.I secured the harness with hot glue and voila problem fixed. I hope this saves few bucks for someone.