They are easy, but if you don't know what you are doing ask someone for help who does. You can damage the head if you over/under tighten them. NGK plugs only, and it uses a standard plug. Paying extra for a platinum or other type of plug will get you NOTHING more. Don't let the parts guy try to talk you into it. The NGK number is 6953, or BKR5E-11. The correct gap can be found under the hood on the emissions label. You will need a plug gapper, spark plug socket, rachet and long extension. Use ashorter rachet to put them back in as not to over tighten them and crack the plugs or strip the head. But as I said before, it would be best to find someone who knows what they are doing to assist you with this or have it done byapro.

 

Thanks for the ideas...evoracer.....i will look into this....the dam outie is still chugging with the gas this morning.....right in the 35k mark it cuts out....revs...then cuts out again.....only if i let off the gas does it correct itself.....

the good news is i changed the airfilter....(ya big step in mechanics for this lad!) the old one was soooooo dirty....so i hope the new one will let it breathe......i also got the cooling fan recall done this morning....i will update on the improvements / setnbacks.....now to figure out where the dam spark plugs are....thanks agian

G

 

things seem a bit better these days....i replaced the air filter...and had the cooking fan recall job done the other morining....the reving has been less frequent...and i have been crusiing around with the air condintioning on.....i have had some advice to clean the mass flow sensor....dows anyone know how to clean it? what do i clean it with....i know what it is and where it is.....any advice would be great......

 

Spend the $20 and get the aftermarket repair manual, its worth it. Preferably Haynes if they did one for the Outie. Theres also Clymer and Chilton. I have mostly Haynes (5) and 2 Clymer for one of the motorcycles and the outboard for the boat. Chilton is good for electrical so so for mechanical.

EDITED to add this>> You may want to check for sure but I think that generation of engine needed a valve adjustment as regular maintenance, this is something you want to keep up on if it is supposed to be done. If the previous owner didnt replace the filter regularly its likely they blew off adjusting the valves and for that matter the timing belt.

 

Boldly is correct, the 4G69 requires the valve clearance to be checked, I'm not sure as I got rid of my RA but I believe it was every 50,000 miles.

*EDIT* I just realized that you have a 2003 wich is the 4G64 not 69, but you should check with the dealear and ask if your valves need adjusting none the less to be safe.

 

It'seach 30k miles

 

Thanks for your replies....im going to buy the service manuals....this is my new hobbie.....fixin' the outlander.....this forum has a ton of good info....

 

I just found this on Consumer Guide Automotive....it sounds like my problem......

"The vehicle may vibrate, shudder or surge when cruising between 35-50 mph because the transmission fluid breaks down causing torque converter clutch to misbehave. (2003)"

A good reason to get my fluid replaced?

 

Thats very interesting, I had the same issue in my van the way to describe it is a manual tranny slipping. Or oddly enough jerkily spinning your tires in the rain.
Its a physical sensation not a stalling dying feeling. Does that make sense?

 

So after replacing the transmision fluid i am still having the problem.....the car stutters and the gas pedal vibrates....as the speed and rpm's go up and down.....if i keep my foot on the gas the problem remains....only if i let off on the gas does the problem stop......i have tried replacing the air filter, and getting the cooling fan recall fixed.....

looking for other suggestions......anyone else experienced this problem......?