Grease on the back of the pads/shims is for noise.
Are you sure the rear parking brake drums aren't dragging causing the heat? You mentioned it was only the rears and one side was worse than the other.

Maybe I missed you mentioning it but the 2007 manual says you need to bleed the master cylinder then the lines. Download the PDF's for a better view.

 

Based on everything I've read, the MC may need to be bled. The only problem is I am dealing with a mechanic that loves to say "I'VE BEEN A MECHANIC FOR 25 YEARS AND YOU DON"T NEED TO BLEED THE MC!" That is the exact opposite of what I've read if you let the MC go dry. He thinks it is done right so he is not going to do things differently. I am hoping Mitsubishi can bleed EVERYTHING.

As for the parking brake, would just changing pads have an effect on that? The rears are hotter than usual, but the passesnger rear is hotter than the driver rear, whic I am assuming isn't normal. I told him this and he said it wasn't dragging - he wouldn't even hoist it up and spin the wheels to confirm this. Hence I am done with this guy. I'll eat the money that I spent, and jsut get Mitsu to look it over.

The problem with small towns is everyone thinks their friend who owns a shop is the best mechanic. There is no mitsu dealership..I was tempted to take it to hyundai, but I might as well go to Mitsu the next time I am in Halifax...

 

Do you happen to have one of these, or know someone who does?

If so, drive the vehicle around for awhile on relatively flat ground, read the temperature of each rotor (and the caliper too, if you can) and report back.

I can do the same with our vehicle (when it stops raining) and I'll report the data for comparison.

 

I think we have one if these at work.....I'll try and get my hands on it tomorrow. Lots of variables though to try and compare. I'll go for a drive using brakes add little ad possible I'd I get my hands on it. I did a highway run yesterday for an h hour with very little braking and it was hotter than the others. The hub gets very warm....like I said, I'm done with this mechanic and I don't want to end up finding another one like him, so maybe I'm stuck with the dealer

 

Yes, there would be variables between your car and mine and the simple fact that two different measuring guns would be used, but least you'd have a range of temperatures on the wheels and rotors on your own vehicle as well as those of another typical vehicle.

I'll be just puttering around our pretty-level neighborhood for maybe ten or fifteen minutes at say 50 km/hr, max. -- braking normally and then measuring wheel and rotor temp back in our garage.

But I already know that I can put my bare fingers right on the rotors in the rear (inserting them between the "spokes" of our mag wheels) and they are just warm. The fronts are considerably hotter, but I can still leave them on there ... as long as I have not been braking hard while racing the neighbor home, or something.

 

next time you go for a drive, feel the hub of the rotor too. Usually, that gets hot enough that I can put my finger there for a couple of seconds and that is it on the wheel that heats up. I would dare touch my rotors in the rear, considering it sizzles water.

Gotta love the small town. Word has already gotten back to me about how the mechanic thinks I am nuts for challenging him draining my master cylinder as well as thinking my rears are heating up too much. I'm calling mitsubishi today to try and figure out what to do. When they see what this guy did to the rotors, man am I gonna get it lol.

When I lived in Medicine Hat, I knew another guy with an outlander. I think we were the only two that had them lol

 

OK, got my hands on a temp gun - I "borrowed" it from work...Went for about a 15 minute drive..minimal braking never going over 50km/h. Measured the temps as soon as I got out of the car. Aimed at the middle of the rotor and half way up on one of the spokes of the rim. Also measured the hub (in the middle between the rotor and the wheel. Temp in celcius

rotor alloy rim hub
DF 56 37 49
DR 58 37 54
PR 61 39 57
PF 52 38 50


According to this, the back rotors are hotter than the fronts, which is what I though which makes NO sense (at least to me). If I was to brake hard on a drive, the PR would sizzle water while the others wouldn't.

Thoughts?

 

If your pedals are still spongy, then you have air in the brake lines. you don't need to bleed your MC seperately. If you bleed your lines, the fluid has to go through the MC, so you've already bled your MC. What Nesser posted were individual procedures for individual tasks.

Take it to another shop and simply have the lines bled. Another dealership can do it if needed.

 

These readings were taken after my wife drove back from an appointment with her eye doctor -- a trip which takes about 10 minutes on pretty level ground. She didn't drive over 60 km/hr and was easy on the brakes, as usual. She stopped at 5 stop lights on the way home. Outside temp today during her trip was about 24 and (for a nice change) no rain.

......rotor..alloy rim.. hub
DF....47.........38.......41
DR...47.........37.......50
PR....51........35.......46
PF....41.........37.......38

Comparing your results to mine, I would say that, considering the number of variables, they're not that much different. The fact that the rims are almost identical indicates at least some consistency in readings between vehicles. It's also interesting that the warmest reading on our vehicle is also the passenger rear and the coolest rotor the passenger front. I was able to keep my fingers on it, no problem.

If I had been driving, everything may very well have been warmer on ours. And certainly with "sport" or more aggressive driving, it's quite possible that our rotors may be above 100, too. (For example, I think these rotors just may be above 100 (1:30 into the video):
)

Too bad you didn't take temperature readings before you had the pads replaced and brakes bled. With regard to temperature alone, maybe nothing has changed on your vehicle.

 

Thanks for taking the time to do that. I can say for certain the rear rims get hotter after all this happened. I actually had a car that had a caliper messed up so after that experience, I often check the temp of my rims after driving. I can say the rears were never hotter than the fronts, so I'm still going to get it checked out. But it is curious that yours is similar

I think I might have stopped at 2 lights.

I'm going to do a highway drive tomorrow I think so I am going to check it then.

Thanks again! ALso, maybe if you drive tomorrow, when you are in your driveway, push on your brake. Can you judge maybe how far from the floor you can push it? I can still push mine down pretty damn far.

Cheers,
dave