Should brake fluid level rise in reservoir after driving
#31
07-19-2013, 05:09 AM
Last first. Were the pads replaced by following the Mit. procedure (one guide pin only and swing up)?
There should not be air "bubbling out from around the threads" of the bleed screw because there should be no air in the caliper to bubble out. If air does comes out from anywhere, it should come out of the center of the bleed screw, and then only when it's loosened. And if air is bubbling out of anywhere, even when the pedal is not being depressed, that's downright weird and should be investigated. That single phenomenon you've noticed could be the cause of your brake pedal not behaving properly. A new bleeder screw is only about six or seven bucks, even at the stealership.
The bleeder screw is a fairly small diameter. After closing the valve to first contact resistance, I would say another quarter turn at most should be all that is necessary to completely close the valve and prevent accidental loosening.
I'm not trying to be funny here, but if each bleed is getting more air out of the system, that's a good thing, as long as, as you say, the person pressing down on the pedal iism :'(s not allowing it to lift until after the bleed screw has been completely closed. Just keep repeating until there are no air bubbles at all and make sure the reservoir has plenty of fluid.
There should not be air "bubbling out from around the threads" of the bleed screw because there should be no air in the caliper to bubble out. If air does comes out from anywhere, it should come out of the center of the bleed screw, and then only when it's loosened. And if air is bubbling out of anywhere, even when the pedal is not being depressed, that's downright weird and should be investigated. That single phenomenon you've noticed could be the cause of your brake pedal not behaving properly. A new bleeder screw is only about six or seven bucks, even at the stealership.
The bleeder screw is a fairly small diameter. After closing the valve to first contact resistance, I would say another quarter turn at most should be all that is necessary to completely close the valve and prevent accidental loosening.
I'm not trying to be funny here, but if each bleed is getting more air out of the system, that's a good thing, as long as, as you say, the person pressing down on the pedal iism :'(s not allowing it to lift until after the bleed screw has been completely closed. Just keep repeating until there are no air bubbles at all and make sure the reservoir has plenty of fluid.
Maybe this new mechanic stripped the screw or maybe the first guy did. Add for the installation...no he took both bolts. But he did put them back where they were supposed to go....but he did that for all corners, not just the rears
#32
07-19-2013, 08:14 AM
Rears might be hotter than fronts because the rears don't have vents? Aren't they just a solid piece of metal? The fronts are two plates with vents between them to move more air around. Just a guess though.
#33
07-19-2013, 08:42 AM
Yup, that's true. I can only compare it to before all this happened. My rears were signifcantly cooler than the fronts. BUt maybe with new pads that is not the case. I still think there is some unwanted friction there - the gas mileage is down as well.
The bleeder screw looked drier today and nothing came out or leaked when the gf pressed on the brakes. Anyway, it's going in next week to the dealer to sort all this crap out. I have a fairly good relationship with the guys there, so hopefully it'll be reasonable. I have lube just in case it isn't...
#34
07-25-2013, 10:27 AM
Additionally on this subject, does you vehicle have Active Stability Control (ASC)?
ASC | Technology Library | Automobile Technology | Mitsubishi Motors Automobile Manufacturing | MITSUBISHI MOTORS
If so, does it also have the ASC OFF button? If it does, you might want to try turning ASC off and driving around for a bit that way and then compare the temp of fronts to backs and see if they are the same as when ASC is on. When ASC is on, just maybe it is applying more braking to one or both rear wheels.
#35
07-26-2013, 12:15 PM
Well, did you go? If so, what was done, if anything, and did this correct the hot passenger rear rotor?
Additionally on this subject, does you vehicle have Active Stability Control (ASC)?
ASC | Technology Library | Automobile Technology | Mitsubishi Motors Automobile Manufacturing | MITSUBISHI MOTORS
If so, does it also have the ASC OFF button? If it does, you might want to try turning ASC off and driving around for a bit that way and then compare the temp of fronts to backs and see if they are the same as when ASC is on. When ASC is on, just maybe it is applying more braking to one or both rear wheels.
Additionally on this subject, does you vehicle have Active Stability Control (ASC)?
ASC | Technology Library | Automobile Technology | Mitsubishi Motors Automobile Manufacturing | MITSUBISHI MOTORS
If so, does it also have the ASC OFF button? If it does, you might want to try turning ASC off and driving around for a bit that way and then compare the temp of fronts to backs and see if they are the same as when ASC is on. When ASC is on, just maybe it is applying more braking to one or both rear wheels.
Didn't get to it this week. I am slotted in for Wednesday coming. I always have the ASC on, so that shouldn't make a difference as it is never off.
I'll let you guys know what happens. I do know they are gping to pressure bleed the system (an I am assuming hook the abs to whatever makes them active).
Cheers!
#36
07-26-2013, 05:14 PM
If you have one, try pressing the "ASC OFF" button. That turns the ASC off. Then ride around and check your temps.
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