In a previous thread, we came to the concensus that '07-'09 6B31 engines are non-interference, while '10+ 6B31 engines are interference engines. In '10, they upped the compression by removing the divots in the pistons. If you look at the '07 service manual, you'll see the divots in the pistons...no reason for them to be there otherwise.

I changed mine out at 105k miles, the belt looked in relatively good shape. Some wear on the teeth, no cracks, very minor fraying on the sides.

 

So, even if the t-belt breaks in the '07-'09 V6s, there will be no damage to either the valves or the pistons, correct?

You'll still be sitting on roadside dead, and you'll still have to get a new belt in there, but at least you won't be on the hook for the repair of the rest of the damage that an interference engine would likely require. Good!

 

https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...65/#post287324
That's what has been discussed.
I haven't had the heads off, so I can't say from experience.

 

Thanks!

What would be even nicer to know is what the approximate date (or engine serial number, or VIN) of the switchover to interference was. That is, do ALL '09s have non-interference engines, or merely "most"?

 

if your engine is spec'd at 210hp, that is the older version. if it is spec'd at 220hp, then newer version.

 

Did you mean to say 220 and 230 hp?

 

...maybe...it's been a long day.

 

Good info my 09 will be getting it's change as recommended by the owners manual.

 

I just ran across the following video of the timing belt change on an '07 V6.
Because the name of the person who posted it is Russian (I think), I fully expected to see a video that would be narrated in Russian, but this is not the case. In fact, the video looks to me like it's some kind of official Mitsubishi release.

Anyway, at 3:20 into Part 1 of the 2-part video, as you can hear for yourself, the narrator claims that the engine is an interference design. Whether this is true or not, I do not know. But if the video was indeed a Mit. product, it should certainly spice up the "it is/no it isn't" debate.

But regardless of whether the '07 is interference or not, as a DIYr, I thought that the 2-part video provided a wealth of information with regard to timing belt replacement, particularly about the tensioner and the moving of the various sprockets at certain times.

As far as I can tell, the replacing the timing belt on a V6 Outlander looks much simpler than doing the timing belt/balancer belt on our '92 Accord. After our 2010 is off-warranty, if I'm still alive, I will not hesitate to do this job myself. (And if I'm not, I will.)

Edit.
I highly recommend an additional step when replacing the timing belt.

Before removing the old belt, mark very well the valleys on the old belt into which the two timing-marked teeth of the cam sprockets fit, as well as marking a crank-sprocket tooth and matching valley on the old belt. Also write an "R" and "L" on the appropriate cam-valley marks, as well as a "CR" on the crank-valley mark.

After removing the old belt from the vehicle, place the new belt edge-to-edge against the old belt and transfer the three marks and labels on the old belt to the new belt.

When installing the new belt on the vehicle, as the video recommends, start at the crank sprocket by mating the crank-valley-mark on the new belt with the marked tooth on the crank sprocket. Then lead the belt up to the right cam sprocket and mate the marked valley with it's timing-marked tooth. Then lead the belt over to the left cam sprocket, doing the same there.

Because the number of valleys on the new belt MUST be identical to that of the old belt, placing the marked valleys of the new belt on the teeth of the three sprockets absolutely guarantees that the new belt is installed correctly (as long as the old belt was installed correctly).

What's nice is that while installing the belt in a real-life situation -- where the engine is sitting in the cramped engine compartment rather than fully exposed on an engine stand -- either of the two cam sprockets can to be rotated slightly in order to get its marked tooth into the new belt's marked valley. There is no guesswork about whether the belt is tight enough, etc.

Again, this procedure guarantees that after the crank is finally test-rotated a few times and put into TDC, the two cam shafts will be exactly where they are supposed to be.

 

Hello,

I am very mechanically inclined and am planning to change the timing belt, tensioner and cam seals (and maybe spark plugs) on my 2007 Outlander (134k miles). My questions are:

1) What was the most time consuming part?
2) What method did you use to remove the crank pulley? I am planning to use the breaker bar only.
3) Did you just support the engine and remove the engine mount, slip the belt off/on and reinstall the mount or lift the engine up?

I would much rather support the engine and remove the mount than have to lift it, as I am sure there are many things that would need to be disconnected to safely do so.

Thanks