I replaced the factory Toyo tires at 50,500 miles. I could have squeezed at least another 5K miles out of them if necessary, but traction was pretty bad and wet-weather driving was getting too interesting (as you might expect). I never had any complaints with the Toyos, but the replacement cost was pretty high. I got a solid deal on some Kenda Kinetica Touring A/S tires, and so far have about ~2K miles on them. Performance on both dry and wet pavement has been excellent, and they do fairly well on dirt roads. They have a 60K mileage rating so I hope to get ~50K out of them.

 

I am not digging the Toyo tires. I have 27k miles on mine, and at 17k miles they were cracking and, recently they started "chunking," where bits of the tire actually rip off. I badgered Toyo to warranty them and they reluctantly worked with me through Discount Tire to give me a 25% credit on any tire I buy.

 

Crazy, never had a single issue with mine.

The Kendas now have ~6K miles on them. They may be a 'tad' louder than the Toyos but it could be because they have significantly more tread than my recent experience with the old tires. Just finished a 2K mile road trip and have no complaints. They do well in rain and dirt roads. No snow or ice yet.

 

Not many will admit this but after getting BAD info from a non Mitsu dealer I feel I owe it to anyone who may experience this. My attempt to install a GM battery in dim lighting, (Whose poles are reversed) resulted in a loss of power to windows /fans/door locks, but it still started. and drove but did not charge. This Yobo told me I probably fried the ECM and the alternator,($700 dealer price).Following that he said I'd have to go to the Dealer 40 miles away to reprogram it. We're talking $2000 with towing/parts/travel to and from and stealership charging $130/hr. ALL for a 09 Outlander,I don't think so.(Worth $2500, maybe). Think it can't happen to you, try boosting by reversing your cables.
The solution I found on UTube,(Proof I'm not the only one lol ) but not for an Outlander, so different but the same. One is a pull out 120 Amp fuse(Toyota) and mine is a fuseblock attached to the positive battery post cable. The part is $60 US on Amazon.com but is NOT available on.CA, so weeks of waiting.(Not at NAPA either)
Take out the battery, (Which is dead by now), lift the red cover off. Now look and you will see 4 big oblong soldered fuses. The bigger 120 A at the top will be blown. This protects the alternator, ECM and all your electrical's but NOT the radio fuse, the only 15 A blown. It is difficult to get the solder to jump the gap left but it's doable.When you drive down the road and a bunch of dash lights don't come on you know your Alt is charging, Whew.
To think I came this close to scrapping it. Hope this helps someone.

 

Finally narrowed the dead A/C down to the compressor.I'm no pro and have only installed one in my life, so don't be deterred. You can pay a shop $1600 if you so choose to do the job. My philosophy is if I screw it up I end up paying a shop to do it anyway Got a used one off Ebay LKQ for $130 S/H included to Canada.($800 Stealership price) One and a half hours not counting skid pan removal , 2 cans of Freon and it's blowing cold as ice.
That's what I''m talkin' aboot EH!

 

I have done a few things:

1. Remove the 6th and 7th jump seats and replaced them with a custom storage compartment.
2. Installed a rear auxiliary light activated with a switch on the dash (I have ordered a nicer switch).

 

That's pretty slick, @Cubby

 

I just replaced engine oil, filter and air filter. Today I replaced transmission (CVT) oil and cooler filter.