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On another matter, are all model 6B31 engines created equal or are there sub-categories? The reason I ask is that I'm still not convinced that the engine in our vehicles are interference. For example, here's a video of a 6B31 engine that has indentations on the tops of its pistons to accomodate the valves. Just go to 1:04 to see the tops of the pistons. Does the presence of these indentations mean with certainty that an engine is non-interference?
Here's a geat video showing exactly what's under the timing belt covers, as well as a close-up view of a tensioner that is leaking. Start watching at 5:42 into the video. (Select closed captions, then click on settings, language subtitle, then auto-translate to english. Sorry if you already know this.) Notice the huge headache it apparently was to remove the OEM idler pulley between the two cam pulleys. I'm going to try to replace the one on my vehicle, but I'm getting a bit leery about that after seeing that video. BTW, later in the video there is shown what it takes to replace the firewall spark plugs on our engines. It all looks very familiar to me, because I've just been there, done that.
Great views of the naked front of the engine start at 16:15 into the following video. Everything remoced, including water pump, which I will be replacing, as well as the cam seals.
Great videos, looks like good amount of space to work on the timing belt.
I think I will have to order a new tensioner now seeing how that car is a newer outlander and oil is coming out of it.
I don't think the divots in the pistons indicate interference engine or not, Mitsu have raised the compression in the later years it seems the reason for the divots is to clear the valves better. But yes there is the later revision of 6B31 engines with higher compression.
Even the training video, I assume is made before 2010 models. Demostrate it is interference engine.
In the Portuguese language video, notice that the technician is using the crank pulley bolt to rotate the crank clockwise, which makes perfect sense. Why bother with that special tool just to rotate the crank?
Most people just use the bolt to turn the crank.
Just know that when you are done, would be slightly tightened, also that this method won't turn the crank counter clockwise too well.
The Mitsubishi listed tool number *should* work because that's what the technician will buy. That's what I'm planned to buy.
You may need to get a couple of longer bolts for it.
The Mitsubishi listed tool number *should* work because that's what the technician will buy. That's what I'm planned to buy.
You may need to get a couple of longer bolts for it.
Notice in the Mitsubishi screen capture's vehicles, that the 2010 and 2011 Outlanders are not mentioned.
I found a good photo of the original Mitsubishi tool and optional pins. Notice how the part of the tool that accepts the pins is raised quite a bit. This arrangement means that those protrusions and pins are really going to stick into the pulley's "cavern" quite a distiance. Additionally, the pins are shaped in such a way that they're not going to slip out of the pulley's holes as high torque is applied. Talk about rugged! These photos are of a tool that is being sold on a UK web site. For the tool and pins you have to shell out over $300 CAD. (I'm thiinking about trying the "bump the starter" method of bolt removal. Has anybody tried that with a 2010 or 2011 Outlander?)
Alternatively, there is the OTC 4754, which seems to have similar quality and pins as the Mit. original OEM tools. I'm thinking about buying it from Amazon and returning it if it does not fit the pulley properly (hopefuilly without dirtying it).
06-25-2022, 10:24 PM
