He sent me the dimensions. They were what he used to make his Mit. copy. Here's a photo of his tool that he sent to me.



Good luck with Bosch. On the "How to order" page of their website:
https://mitsubishi.service-solutions.com/How-To-Order
There is the section entitled "Information and Specifications". The first sentence in that section is as follows.
"All information and specifications in this catalog are effective January 1, 2003 and are subject to change without notice."

 

Nice work Outlaander! Great to hear the job went fairly smoothly. Very good point about being able to use an impact wrench to tighten that crank bolt the last 60 degrees...mark the bolt, give it a hammer, check, repeat. Wish I'd thought of that before bending my tool!

 

Yes, I thought of using the impact wrench about one minute after having broken my back trying to get those 60 degrees.

FWIW, I've been very bothered by not replacing the camshaft seals -- bothered to the point that I think I'm going to replace them in the next couple of weeks. Of course this time through the procedure I won't have to replace any parts other than the seals. Therefore, I've been looking under the hood and debating whether or not I can remove the pulleys and replace the seals WITHOUT removing the engine mount on the engine and its mate on the fender.

I'll still have to remove the three timing covers, which means that I have to remove the accessory belt tensioner, the power steering and accessory belts, the crank pulley (which should spin out much faster now because it was recently removed and lubricated upon installation) and the little hydraulic tensioning cylinder. The timing belt can then be removed from the two camshaft pulleys and, hopefully, the pulleys themselves can be removed and then the seals replaced. Not having to remove and re-install the two mounts will reduce the time it takes to do the job ...........IF it can be done.

I thought of this after watching the video I posted previously in this thread in which its maker replaces the cam seals in his vehicle using custom made installation tools. He removed only the large central rubber bushing in the fender motor mount, while leaving the engine motor mount in place.

And this time I'll be using the impact wrech to get those final 60 degrees of turn!

 

In post #28 there is the official Mitsubishi "how to" video. At about 3:14 the narrator says that in order to prevent the valves from hitting the pistions while turning the cam pulleys, one should turn the crank gear "4 teeth counter clockwise". When the guy turns CCW, I see him move only 3 teeth, not 4, UNLESS one counts the TDC tooth as nuimber 1. So, before you start turning, the first tooth you meet is number 2, then 3 then four. But this is a weird way of counting, in my book. There is no doubt that the crank gear is moved 3 teeth, but I wonder if the guy doing the turning should have gone another tooth. This is important for me to know because I intend to turn the cam pulleys freely when I am loosening their bolts -- like the guy does after he has moved the crank gear 3 teeth CCW, .

 

Over last Friday and Saturday my wife and I replaced the camshaft seals.

- To replace those seals it is not necessary to remove either the motor mount that is fastened the engine or its mate that is fastenved to the fender part of the chassis. (But if one wants to remove the timing belt or the water pump, these two must be removed.)

- First things first, after adjusting the three timing reference marks to TDC and verifying their alighnments on the engine reference points, I painted new lines on the valleys of the new belt. I then removed the tensioner cylinder from the vehicle, loosening the timing belt. Then I slipped the belt off the cam pulleys. Then I turned the crank pulley 3 or four (depending on how you count) teeth CCW, supposedly allowing unfinited rotation of the cam pulleys, as desired. A bit of a leap of faith here.

- The Princess Auto camshaft holder referenced and linked earlier in this thread did its job admirably to hold the camshaft pulleys stationary on our vehicle. I removed the cam pulley bolt toward the front of the vehicle using our DeWalt 20V impact driver and a stubby impact adapter that has a 1/2" square end. The impact driver fit nicely in the available space. It took about 3 seconds of hammering to break the bolt free with very little effort required to hold the pulley stationary using the PA holder. The rearward pulley was a different matter. I first installed the holder in such a way that the handle was up against the strut support, while the handle would prevent any CCW rotation of the pulley (it's just a matter of positioning the holder's two pins correctly within the "spokes" of the pulley). Then I used a breaker bar with a piece of 1" iron pipe as a "cheater" to break free the pulley bolt. The bolt is supposedly installed to 67 ft-lb. If you do this job, you will be amazed at the effort it takes to remove that bolt. Once the breaker bar started to meet resistance and my left hand holding the PA holder could be freed, it took my two hands and a considerable force on the cheater pipe fo finally get a short "crack" on the bolt (at which point I said "it's about to release" to my wife). Then the big crack happened, which broke the bolt free -- allowing it to be turned out with fingers. It must have taken at least 120 ft-lbs of torque to free up that bolt. Amazing. Too bad that there is no way that I know of to get an impact driver in the available space. Maybe one of the newer cordless ratchet wrenches that have an impact feature could do the job. If I were going to do this job again, I would rent one (if available) to see if it could do the job.

- After removing the pulleys, I used a small, hooked pick from the following set of 9 picks to pry out the seals (on sale at the time for $15 CAD; and now I have a set of picks that I very well might never use again).
https://www.princessauto.com/en/9-pc...t/PA0008413759



The real problem with removing the cam seals (as opposed to the crank seal) is that they are recessed into the block roughly 1/4" -- which precludes the used of tools that have a 90 degree "blade" that is first pushed through the rubber sealing edge of. seal (holding the handle of the tool parallel to the face of the seal), and then moving the end of the handle parallel to, and against, the side of the camshaft, which turns the blade inside the seal up against the back of the steel part of the seal -- now allowing the blade to pull the seal straight out of its seat.

Again, because the cam seals are recessed, this type of tool cannot be used (to my knowledge, so I might be wrong on this). Instead, I decided to use the hooked pick. I first dulled the tip of the hook so it would not scratch either the shaft or the area that seats the seal. I maneuvered the handle of the pick so that the tip slpped through the sealing edge of the seal, pushed it further into the seal while moving the handle more parallel to the centerline of the shaft, then, finally, twisted the tool so that the hook turned up behind the metal part of the seal.

And then I pulled and pulled and pulled. The front-most seal gave up the ghost after about 20 minutes. Unfortunately, because of the space limitation, it took me about two HOURS of pull, pull, pulling to get the rear-most seal out of there. In short, it was a real ball-buster. But the amazing pick was up to the job. The hook did not straighten one iota as I pulled and pulled and pulled.

The tool that is needed here is a hinged version of the bladed tool I described above. There should be a hinge located about a "seal's-width" from the end of the blade. The blade could then be inserted through the sealing edge while the handle is still poking straight out from the seal; then, while using a screw-driver to prevent the blade from pulling out, the handle could pull on the hinge and begin to straighten the length of the tool. After the handle straightens enough, a metal sleeve over the handle could be slipped down over the hinge area and the handle could then be brought straight out against the shaft; the blade inside the seal brought up against the metal part of the seal and then the seal could be pulled straight out. A pair of these could be used with a pulling device between them to get that seal out of there quickly and easily. Maybe such a device exists and I'm ignorant of it.

- I used three custom insertion tools to insert the new Mit OEM seals. These plastic-pipe tools are described pretty well in a video I previously posted in this thread.

- Re-installing the pulleys was a snap using the PA holder and my hybrid torque wrench. 67 ft-lbs is relatively easy using the two tools -- nothing like what it takes to remove them.

- Getting the timing belt back on the pulleys was easy using the reference lines. Once the belt was back on, I installed the tensioner cylinder and pulled the pin. Then two turns of the crankshaft; confirm timing marks; measure cylinder rod protrusion (12mm), and put everything back together.

- I had the chance to confirm no oil leakage from the crank seal that I installed the first time around the horn of this job.

- I must admit that when I re-installed the crank pulley I did not tighten to 148 ft-lbs, then back off to zero ft-lbs, then back up to 81 ft-lbs, then another 60 degrees. I tightened to 81 ft-lbs and then impact-wrenched another 60 degrees (which actually took several seconds of hammering). I used the PA pulley holder to hold up to 81 ft-lbs and used it to even-more-easily hold the pulley stationary while impact-wrenching another 60 degrees. I have absolutely no doubt that the pulley is secured to the crankshaft much more than adequately tight.

- All I'm doing now is keeping my fingers crossed that no oil will leak from the new cam seals. For the next couple of weeks I'm keeping a piece of clean box-cardboard under the vehicle to monitor the situation. So far, so good.

 

This is a great thread, I did plan to DIY this, but I got lazy and let it lapse again, belt now 11 years old but not close to 100k miles.

This year, I tried to call around my 3 local dealer none would pick up their phone or return their voice mail. I tried every few months. Now, I am driving a bit further I found a dealer is only charging $500 for the labor. The parts are full MSRP though, but still I amortize this over next 10 years, it's still rather economical. The other dealer 6 hrs away in LA, quoted $1000 more than this one.
The price was actually a little cheaper than my indy mechanic, who claims they have done Outlander V6 before. But I prefer to have the dealer do this, goes into Carfax, warranty on work is better incase they grenade my engine. The usually tensioner, pulleys, water pump, coolant, no need for crankseal for now.

They are even giving me a loaner that is supposed to be for owners that has warranty, but because I am the original owner under 100k miles, they are honoring the loaner for me! They only have one Mitsubishi trained mechanic, and he will be working on it.

 

FWIW, this would be the ideal time to replace the three firewall spak plugs AND ignition coils, regardless of how the engine runs at the moment. The timing belt job and the spark plug/ignition coil job somewhat overlap, disassembly wise.

 

I guess I will do the plugs next time, I rather not combine the jobs so in case they affect the car a different way. In case it start to run rough how will we know if it was the plug was bad, the intake manifold or air box wasn't put together properly, or did the timing belt skipped? Doing the spark plug is relatively unintrusive, just lots of steps.

But to add to this post, even experienced Mitsu trained tech stripped out the idler pulley bolt, this added a day to the job as they needed to order a replacement bolt.
It's just one of those things where maybe the aluminum thread might be made too tight for the bolt, or the bolt's metal is too soft to crack it loose. It seems most people do run into this problem.

Having this bolt before starting this job is a must, just replace it.
Looking at the videos again, great that you can DIY, I'm still a bit intimidated even if I have decent mechanical experience. Having the dealer do it every 10 years is economical enough for me. This was the first time the car saw the dealer for anything. Just keep changing the fluids, look at the outlander engine bay there is so much space to work on compare to other cars.