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Replaced timing belt, plugs, and more

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Old 12-28-2012, 12:11 AM
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Default Replaced timing belt, plugs, and more

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B1...Rmc0xJVHc/edit

Thought I'd get this thread started. This holiday season, dad helped me with some of the evil maintenance that is supposed to happen. We knocked out the timing belt, spark plugs, a leaking rear diff output oil seal, an a weeping upper oil pan.

I'll comment more later...have fun with the pics
 
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:39 AM
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hi - any chance of you listing out the parts associated with the timing belt replacement and the plug change?

Any hints or tips? I have an 08 with V6 and coming up on both fast.
 
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:07 AM
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For the timing belt, the service manual does well, but does leave out some info. It will work best to raise it about 6 inches. Remove AC and power steering belts. Remove timing belt covers. We skipped some steps and set TDC marks now. Remove crank pulley....we used an impact wrench first, then went to a breaker bar and iron rod. Crank pulley has some holes in it...we inserted the metal rod to hold it still. We did not have a crank pulley wrench deep enough. Remove the pulley. Now for the hard part. The timing belt goes through the motor mount. Use a jack and support the engine from below. Remove the motor mount...we removed the entire mount. Remove the tensioner...it does not release as bad as the manual makes it out. We compressed the tensioner back using a c-clamp. Go slow and pin it back with a drill bit...make sure you pin it from the correct side! We did not remove the tensioner pulley. Put new belt on. Put small c-clamps on the belt/camshaft sprockets to keep the belt from jumping. Turn the crank backwards a quarter turn, then forward to put correct tension on the belt...recheck the timing marks. We were off one tooth, so we marked a crank tooth to the belt....then removed the belt from the crank and adjusted one tooth. Go back an for the on the belt to put it back into correct tension and recheck your timings. Pull the pin on your tensioner and take a beer break. Start re-assembling. I suggest replacing the other belts while you are in there. Make sure you have the service manual handy to look up torque values.

Doing all this on a smart phone....can't format too well.
 
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:18 AM
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just out of curiosity since im not so mechanically inclined to change a timing belt. what would be the cost to do such thing for both the dealer and local mechanic you trust.
 
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:24 PM
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I paid $40 from rock auto for the belt. I bet the stealership will charge $80 or so. There were no other parts to buy, but it took us about 4-5 hrs to do. They charge about 100 an hour. If I were to have a mechanic do it, I'd take it to a NAPA shop. Two year warranty and nationwide locations.
 
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cheech
just out of curiosity since im not so mechanically inclined to change a timing belt. what would be the cost to do such thing for both the dealer and local mechanic you trust.
Estimate here in NJ for timing belt and water pump replacement at same time is $1400 from a good shop. Dealer wants about same. It is smart to replace water pump while doing this because the pump is driven by the timing belt if I understand correctly. This is what most repair shops around here charge for transverse mounted V6 engine timing belt. 4 cylinder engines are somewhat cheaper. I am not sure if I will do the job myself or dig deep for the money. I think the charge is high for the labor involved but it is what they all seem to charge around here. The 'Book' must give 10-12 hours for the job and none of the locals will charge for actual labor hours.
 
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:06 PM
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For the spark plugs...I bought the spark plugs from Rock auto and were exact same plugs that came out. We also had to use some semi-liquid gasket sealer....we used The Right Stuff found at most auto parts stores.

Some of the major items to remove...air duct up to the throttle body. Remove the throttle body...there are two coolant lines that keep it from freezing up...keep that connected and fold it over towards the brake booster. Disconnect the EGR tube. On the other side are is mostly electrical connectors and various brackets. I removed the vacuum reservoir so I only had to disconnect one vacuum line. There is a support bracket bolt on each side to be. The plenum then comes off easily. Use spark plug sockets with the rubber inserts so the plugs don't fall down and bend the leads. Clean up the intake surfaces and gasket surfaces. Put a thin film of right stuff on intake and gasket surfaces and start re-assembling. Make sure you torque the intake plenum, throttle body, and spark plugs. Double check the plenum once all done. This took about 4-5 hours. Just a lot of disassembly. Lots of time and only cost to be plugs and gasket sealer.
 
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