Hi guys,

need some help building my car, main thing i need help with is upgrading the brakes. Has anyone got experience on this model? Anyone done what im going to do? Need to get it up to cert spec. Also where can i suss a LSD?

Thanks

 

77 Glant. nice.

"building my car" - wtf? be specific if you want answers dude. otherwise:

start with (4) wheels - then bolt a car onto them.

upgrading the brakes? to what? 4 pot brembos with stainless chassis runs and braided lines through? or.. just better than drums?

there are so many places that you can get LSD, and limited slip diffs, i'm not even going to dignify that with an answer.


welcome to the forum. try harder next time.

 

Sorry for my vague question.

My Galant is totally stock apart from the engine. It has a 4g63t engine, power output at this stage is unknown. I need to get the brakes up to a standard that wont just pass a cert, but be safe enough to drive.

At this stage, i just want to focus on upgrading the original brakes to something alot more stronger to handle the extra power.

I want to replace the rear drum brakes with discs, and possibly upgrade the from discs to newer, better discs if possible. Otherwise there may be a better option to get better braking power from the original front discs. You may have another solution for me, at this stage i dont really know what to do. Is there a certain models brakes that can be adapted to fit? Possibly vr4 brakes or evo brakes?

What diff do i need to look for? I actually do not have a clue where to start to look for one. Im new to Mitsubishis so please dont be rude about it.

Thanks for your reply

 

blunt, rather than rude. Choose to be offended if you like.

Ive had 2 of these (sigmas)

youd be hard pressed to smoke discs unless your racing. But it would be easy enough to find slotties to go on. Disk size will be limited by your rims, but again, stocks should do.
Best bang for your money would be braided chassis hoses.
Aftermarket ABS wouldnt be too hard if you know what youre doing.
I dont know the mounting ctc of the calipers, youd have to measure to find something compatible.
Dont forget to upgrade shocks. Whiteline do an anti dive kit which has harder damping.

Changing drums to disc is engineery job. Expensive. Youd do better finding a complete rear axle off something with discs already, and making it fit.

 

Hi Akzle,

Thanks a lot for all your help and advice. I am going to buy a rear Hilux diff with LSD, i have a quote from Diffs r us to convert it to fit my car with disc brakes etc.
This way i am getting a new stronger diff and disc brakes.

What would be the best brakes to modify to fit on new axle? im assuming a newer model galant such as a 1991 with the same stud pattern. I found one being wrecked on trademe, the stud pattern should be the same right through right? 4x114.3?

I will also end up re doing the brake lines converting them to braided.

How are the gearboxes in these Galants? I heard they are the same as the old L200 gearboxes. With a higher performance engine will i need to upgrade the gearbox? or just the clutch.

thanks again

 

good and fine. i don't know how a hilux diff lines up, but i imagine it's either leaf sprung or on a four point link. given the option, you want the four point link.
you'll also want a high-ratio one, again, i don't know 'luxes well, but if they're anything like datsuns, they have 3 or 4 different diff ratios - it'd pay to check.

measure. i cannot stress this enough. i nearly bought a set of rims "yeah yeah they'll fit" - they didn't fit. measure, YOURSELF.

since you're getting lux on the back, i'd be looking for toymotor ones that match on the front. ignore the mitsi stock stud pattern.
...or find someone with a license to drill.

the "best" brakes are brembo.

you could pull some 16" rotors of a hino, if you can find rims that will hide them...

as said, that's the best bucks for bling that you'll notice.

personally i'd leave both unless you end up slipping the stock clutch.

the first stage would be: HD ceramic or multi-plate clutch kits are available for most boxes, with a bit of engineering, otherwise celicas are renowned for fitting easily behind anything.

as for upgrading the box. matter of opinion there.

i know the L2s came out with the same 2.0 petrol 4g (up to a 3.0 v6 - so they should handle the power) and i believe some sigmas came out with the 2.6 petrol. so it's highly likely they'll fit, if they're not the same.
you'll want a good flywheel at the back of it either way, it's night and day difference on the 2.6. (I never did on the 2.0)


post pics!

 

front*
flywheels are in front of boxes.

 

I havnt got many photos at this stage, this is the car how i got it. Engine has been set up in a way that i don't like, (intercooler piping) etc etc. Has a lot of work to do to get it to a good standard.

Thanks heaps for your help, i havnt got many people to get advice from, so appreciate yours. You obviously know what your doing.

Hilux diffs are the best options as they have alot of options in terms of ratios. I am going to go for a 4.8 ratio, if i decide down the track its not working i can always get a new diff head. In terms of fitting, the guy said it is easy with the Hilux rear diff, the one im getting is on a four point link. $600 for a LSD complete assembly with hubs and all. The Galant has coil springs in the rear, everything can just swap over. He will need to shorten the axle though. Will not be cheap, but will worth it in the long run.

The guy who is going to do the diff conversion stressed this also, i will make sure i will measure everything myself to make sure. Thanks

Yeah, i will leave gearbox and clutch for now, i may look into getting a better flywheel later on down the track, and i will try source a heavy duty clutch. I will look into the celica clutch.
I heard that the gearbox in it is the same throughout the old l200s, so i will find the numbers on the gearbox and find out. If it is that is good news, will be able to handle the power.

Thanks again

 

since you're throwing a bit of coin at this, and that wagon IS a beauty (i wonder if it was NZ assembled??) might pay to get a dyno benchmark and your EGTs clocked now, so you can compare the benefits of mods.

nah, i just sound like i do

since you're basically dropping the guts out of it anyway, and since you seem to have a decent engineer on hand, it's only a matter of another dozen bolts to get at the flywheel (drop gearbox, unbolt clutch, hey presto.) so you might do well to have it machined now - will come down to pennies i guess.
as for weights, you would have to research that for yourself to match your engine/ PSI etc. - your dyno tuner may be able to help out here.

that said, it's not a hard job later on to drop the gearbox for clutch/flywheel. so no rush.

transmission. whole box.

yeah, all the engines were fairly interchangable so assume boxes too.

deffo let us know how you get on.

 

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