Need some help with an engine (420A?)
#11
RE: Need some help with an engine (420A?)
That's fine and dandy but there will be valves open I'm trying to test for bent valves before doing the timing belt. If the belt is on and whatnot that will work but the belt isn't. Know what I'm trying to say? I want to test it before doing the work to replace it. With the cam stationary I shouldn't see any compression in at least 1 if not more cylinders.
#13
RE: Need some help with an engine (420A?)
I have 30 on the #1 0 on 2 and 3 and 40 on #4 with a stationary camshaft I'm hoping it stopped with them up enough to not hit and bend... Slim chance I'm sure...
#19
RE: Need some help with an engine (420A?)
thats probably your best bet is to buy a head from a junk yard...the same thing happened to my sister and were now in the process of getting a cyilinder head...its eaisier than ripping the whole thing apart
#20
RE: Need some help with an engine (420A?)
Either my friend got INCREDIBLY lucky or I dunno maybe the SOHC is a non interference motor. I took 7.5 hours Monday to do the timing belt. Turns out the water pump is fine (The belt was old and HADN'T been replaced last year as she thought). After re timing the car 4 times (I'll explain THAT fiasco in a minute here) I finally got her running and she purs like a kitten. The engine makes NO noise whatsoever. So if there IS a bent valve then it's BARELY bent if at all and I told her already that there MAY be one and to tuck some away here and there to do the head job later.
Anyways ON to the story. I'm going by this ultimate timing book we have. This book lists every engine known and how to time each one and all steps to install a new timing belt. So for DiamlerChrysler the 2.0L SOHC after removing the timing belt the book informs me to line the crankshaft up at TDC via the arrows on the crank pulley and the oil pump housing. Done. Now it says to back the crank off 3 notches. Fine... Done. Align the camshaft to TDC. Done. Then it says to back the crankshaft off another 1/2 a notch. So I do that. Now install the timing belt and bring the crankshaft forward by 1/2 a notch to TDC... Now wait a sec... I thought I was 3 1/2 notches away from TDC... So do I go 1/2 or do I go to TDC?... I try both ways... Nothing... I tried another variation of it then decided to go back to the shadetree method. I threw the damn book across the shop, Took out #1 plug, stuck a long @$$ 1/4" extension into the hole and found TDC myself. (Which actually happened to be 1/2 notch AFTER the mark... Hhhhmmmm....) I then proceeded to install the belt, turn the engine twice by hand (That thing had some compression lemme tell you...), and then finally turn the key. And BAM she starts right up. NEVER again will I go by a freakin book... (Not a generic one at least).
Anyways ON to the story. I'm going by this ultimate timing book we have. This book lists every engine known and how to time each one and all steps to install a new timing belt. So for DiamlerChrysler the 2.0L SOHC after removing the timing belt the book informs me to line the crankshaft up at TDC via the arrows on the crank pulley and the oil pump housing. Done. Now it says to back the crank off 3 notches. Fine... Done. Align the camshaft to TDC. Done. Then it says to back the crankshaft off another 1/2 a notch. So I do that. Now install the timing belt and bring the crankshaft forward by 1/2 a notch to TDC... Now wait a sec... I thought I was 3 1/2 notches away from TDC... So do I go 1/2 or do I go to TDC?... I try both ways... Nothing... I tried another variation of it then decided to go back to the shadetree method. I threw the damn book across the shop, Took out #1 plug, stuck a long @$$ 1/4" extension into the hole and found TDC myself. (Which actually happened to be 1/2 notch AFTER the mark... Hhhhmmmm....) I then proceeded to install the belt, turn the engine twice by hand (That thing had some compression lemme tell you...), and then finally turn the key. And BAM she starts right up. NEVER again will I go by a freakin book... (Not a generic one at least).