1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse injector trouble
Hello all, I am new in this forum and could use some help
I have a question I hope someone can maybe help me with.
I just bought a 93 mitsubishi eclipse with a 1.8L non turbo car. The trouble I am having is when you start the car it floods out #2 cylinder (but keeps running)so much gas it will run out of the exhaust. I tested the #2 injector plug with a noid light and it stays on (no blinking) all the rest seem fine. I replaced the fule injector. What do you think. No check engine light come on in car. What should I try next? Do you think it could be the ECU?
I hope someone can help me out.
Thank you,
Joe
I have a question I hope someone can maybe help me with.
I just bought a 93 mitsubishi eclipse with a 1.8L non turbo car. The trouble I am having is when you start the car it floods out #2 cylinder (but keeps running)so much gas it will run out of the exhaust. I tested the #2 injector plug with a noid light and it stays on (no blinking) all the rest seem fine. I replaced the fule injector. What do you think. No check engine light come on in car. What should I try next? Do you think it could be the ECU?
I hope someone can help me out.
Thank you,
Joe
If the noid light is staying on, you might have a shorted wire somwhere that is keeping the injector on. Did you ohm all the injectors? Check to see if #2 is in spec.
Yes I ohm'ed all injectors and they are all within spec. With a grounded wire would that be within the wire loom or somewhere else? Can I ohm the plugs for the fuel injectors? If so what should they read.
Thank you,
Joe
Thank you,
Joe
Ok I did a check on the plugs to the injectors with an ohm meter and the one that is not working only shows 4 ohms and the working ones show 40 ohms. Does this mean bronen wire somewere or could it still be the ECM?
Please help,
Joe
Please help,
Joe
If you want to check the harness side of the injectors, you have to dissconnect the injector connector and the 3 ecu connectors and ohm each wire from the injector to the ecu and you should get .5 ohms or less. Of you have a broken wire you wont have a reading or it will be very very high number.
If you have a noid light staying on I would focus on why its staying powered.
If you have a noid light staying on I would focus on why its staying powered.
I will try that, so should I check each wire by it self to a ground or per plug from injector? The reason I am checking for a broken wire is because I was told that it could be a cause to why the noid light was staying on and not pulsing like it should.
Thank you for your help I will keep this up to date with results.
Joe
Thank you for your help I will keep this up to date with results.
Joe
Well I was able to get a ECU pinout layout and did a test on the #1,#2,#3 and #4 pins for the fuel injectors and 1,3,and 4 were all the same at 54 ohms and #2 was at 24 ohms. So it sounds like it is the ECU that is giving me trouble. Am I missing anything?
Thank you,
Joe
Thank you,
Joe
On this diagram since you have a problem w/ the #2 injector I would check pin #2 to pin 60 at the ecu and see if that wire is good. B/c you already know pin one is good b/c the noid light stays on.
I took the ECU out of the car to check it (the ECU). I checked 51,52,60 and 61 with a ohm meter. I used the #101 for ground and all tested the same except the #2 (#52 on diagram). I am going to check wiring next with everything unpluged. Am I doing this correctly? I sure hope so. When I checked wires unpluged from ECU and fuel injectors I had no reading from any of the plugs. (injector side)
Thank you,
Joe
Thank you,
Joe


